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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here’s the story. I bought this piece of **** Hyundai Santa Fe LX 3.5L 4WD for $600.

Car drove fine, it obviously needed work what $600 car doesn’t. I didn’t care, it just needed to get my little sister to and from work for a little bit until she could get her own.

I’m pretty sure I need a new throttle body but the only company that sells them new is Hyundai and they want $1k for the Throttle Body. I’ve salvaged two from a pic a part with no luck.

I installed a new Throttle Position Sensor and Pedal Position (APS) sensor.

I’ve tried taking parts off different throttle bodies to get a working combo with no luck.

I’m $1,500 in the hole now and just need to know if it’s time to call it and cut my losses? Can’t see spending $1k more on a throttle body because this is a crashed throw away car.

Essentially right now the car does not really respond to throttle inputs. It’s very delayed and after a while of trying to use the throttle it goes into limp mode. I’ve tried every method to calibrate the throttle and pedal position sensors and it’s all the same.

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Have you tried using your scan tool's data list to check the outputs from the two throttle pedal sensors to see which one looks off. Display the sensor values on the tool then slowly press on the throttle pedal and monitor how the values change. With a bit of luck one of the values wont change which would be the easiest fault to diagnose.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Honestly I just bought the scan tool because it said it had the ability to program electronic throttle position but when I went to use it, it said this vehicle is not supported. So I have no idea really how to calibrate it because there is no confirmation from the car when you do the 10s on 10s off telling you it was successful. I will try and play with the scan tool and see what I can find. I was given some TSB's to look at but it's way over my head to be honest.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It hangs when I press the throttle before dropping back down. Pedal Sensor and APS are new. That’s why I wondered if I just wasn’t calibrated properly.
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Discussion Starter #5
It isles fine after codes are cleared. I give it throttle and it goes into limp mode. Reset codes and it idles normal again.
 

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Does it set both codes again when it drops into limp mode?
What does alldata say about the 224 code?

You might want to read THIS POST relating to your 2111 code. It's from the forum's resident Hyundai tech who works with these things all the time.
Fingers crossed that cures the problem 🤞
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Doesn't look like that thread lead to anything lol. I'll try his ignition shut off thing but i've already replaced the throttlebody gasket. At the end of that post he basically says he's still got the same problems lol
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Does it set both codes again when it drops into limp mode?
What does alldata say about the 224 code?

You might want to read THIS POST relating to your 2111 code. It's from the forum's resident Hyundai tech who works with these things all the time.
Fingers crossed that cures the problem 🤞
Last time both codes came back yes. It's been those two recurring codes.

In regards to the other post it doesn't look like that thread lead to anything lol. I'll try his ignition shut off thing but i've already replaced the throttlebody gasket. At the end of that post he basically says he's still got the same problems lol.
 

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Don't you think it would be worth giving the throttle valve a good clean? I recon it would be worth a try given that it costs basically nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Don't you think it would be worth giving the throttle valve a good clean? I recon it would be worth a try given that it costs basically nothing.
Oh I had cleaned the throttle body a bunch. I actually pulled 3 throttle bodies from the pic a part too. I think I was actually able to get it fixed this afternoon. We will see if it lasts. I pulled the intake off and had my wife turn the ignition to the on position and turn it off within 2 seconds and the throttle body wasn't moving. I pulled the electric motor that opens the valve off the side and had her try again and the gear did not spin properly. It felt as though the magnets in the motor were sticking and not spinning freely. I tried two other motors I had from the other throttle bodies and one was sticky and the other was buttery smooth. I popped it on and she seems to be running fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Good Job!
Let us know if that does in fact cure the problem. It sounds promising.
So far it has not come back, drove it around for a while. Got it smogged the other day so I am good to go for my DMV Appointment. No throttle issues since and we drove it for maybe 50 miles. I know that's not a lot but only time will tell. I think I likely had to replace the TPS and APS sensors but since I had done a lot at once it became confusing as to what was causing the issue. I also had ensured that electric motor was spinning freely, I had taken it apart and put it back together but I think I must have put it back together wrong since it spun freely for a bit then locked up almost as if the magnets had gotten stuck on each other. There was a little metal plate in there but I am not sure how it goes together.

That being said the last thing I need to work on is getting this right headlight working. I checked all fuses and swapped bulbs. Bulb is fine but the headlight on the right side just won't light up. I saw something online about the connectors being gunked so I am gonna check that out. Seems other people have had this issue too.
 
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