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Discussion Starter #1
I currently have a 2005 Hyundai Getz 1.3 ltr 2 door auto. The car has developed a problem when cold and driving up an incline it will lose all power and eventually stall.
We have a small incline near home when driving up the incline the car will increase speed and change gear as normal, until close to crest when the car feels it needs to change gear but it also loses all accelerator power and then it will stall.
After pulling car over, placing into park to restart, the car will kick over a bit then start, the idle is rough for a few seconds but then clears and is normal. If i turn around and try the incline again it will not replicate the issue. It will only do it once, when cold and on an incline.
I have had transmission fully serviced, new fuel pump installed, crank angle sensor replaced, Auto electrician has tried to find any faults, this problem will not register any fault codes. After 3 mechanics, Auto electrician and a transmission specialist look at car i am in need of some help please.
 

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2007 Honda CRV
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After 3 mechanics, an auto electrician, and a transmission specialist ...
do you really believe that someone on a forum would know what is wrong with your car?
That someone on a computer who can't see your car can help??
Now that is faith .... lol.

Well, lets see what this forum can do to help!!!


Note: I really am a fan of this forum.
These guys have done remarkable things to help people.
And sometimes it works and sometimes it don't
But, we all learn from it
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You never know if someone else has had a similar problem , and has fixed it. At this point in time we are willing to try for a miracle.
 

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Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
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Does the problem only happen after the first start of the day when the engine is fully cold?
Has any of the people who have worked on the car previously kept it overnight so they can test it from fully cold? There isn't much point to trying to diagnose a fault that only happens when the engine is cold if your not testing it under those conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes , 1 mechanic and the Auto Electrician had the problem whilst driving. Mechanic replaced Crank angle sensor while auto electrician put it down to a fuel problem, and replaced fuel pump and other tests.
 

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Stalling on an incline and only when cold??
Use to happen sometimes with cars that ran using carburetors
Fuel injection and kicks over after a little while

Here's a big guess...
The injectors are sticking and flood the cylinders causing the engine to stall
After warm up, the injectors don't stick open
I don't suggest changing the injectors
But I do suggest running injector cleaner through the fuel system
A few bottles of injector cleaner can't cost too much
And if it doesn't work then it isn't a lot of money lost chasing this intermittent issue.
 

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Mechanic replaced Crank angle sensor while auto electrician put it down to a fuel problem, and replaced fuel pump and other tests.
It does sound like a fuel problem. My guess is lack of fuel though rather than flooding (too much fuel). The reason I'm thinking lack of fuel is you'd want more fuel climbing a hill so I would guess the running of the engine would improve on the hill if you had an over fuel condition, rather than loose power to the point that the engine stalls.

If you have a scan tool you might be able to confirm lack of fuel is the cause. Just monitor the upstream O2 sensor (B1S1) voltage on the scan tool data list during test drive. When your climbing your hill at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) the O2 output voltage should be 0.8~1.0V (fully rich). If the voltage is significantly lower than that there isn't enough fuel being injected.

BTW, the reason for lack of fuel might not necessarily be a problem with the fuel system itself. The fuel that's injected is proportional to the amount of air that is being sucked into the engine. If the sensor that measures the air entering the engine has a problem the engine computer's fuel calculation will be wrong which can cause the symptoms your experiencing.

If you don't have access to a scan tool what you could try instead of the test I mentioned above is a test drive with the air measuring sensor disconnected. I don't know if the 1.3 engine has a MAF or a MAP sensor for air measurement off the top of my head. Either way, it would be worth disconnecting it and see if that changes anything. Often when the air measuring sensor is disconnected the engine computer will use a calculated value for air mass that is derived from the TPS sensor input.
 
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