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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This started a few months ago. At first it only happened when making a hard right turn, its a repeated click or grinding noise. Over time it has gotten worse, and now happens when turning either direction, and its worse the faster the car is going. Turing into the parking space at our apartment is fine... turning from one street to another going to work is not. Various things I looked up suggested the cv joint, but when I went to parts stores websites to look up prices all it gave me was cv boot kits in the results. Is this whats actually wrong, and is it something easily fixed for a DIY person?

Thanks.
 

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probably the CV joint....you'll need the entire driveshaft. the fact that its getting worse like that yes its probably CV joint. no one can say for 100% sure without being there and inspecting the car....but i think this is pretty close.

a good check: get under the car and see if you have a torn boot. almost all the time the CV joint only goes when the boot wears out, breaks, spills out grease and dirt gets in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So the driveshaft has both joints on either end? And will I need the boot for both sides too?
 

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not quite. you have 2 driveshafts, both with boots at either end.

if its clicking and grinding, its too late to just replace the boots. they've probably worn out from neglect and now the joints themselves are damaged. you will need an entire new driveshaft - which one depends on which side is trashed.

i suggested looking at the boots as a quick way to confirm my diagnosis. if this is the case i recommend taking a very close inspection at the boots on the undamaged driveshaft and replace boots as necessary. you'll quickly find out that new boots are much cheaper than a new driveshaft.
 

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I have also recently had this problem with my 2003 Accent. At hard turn, there would be a clicking and knocking sound like something is about to snap. It turned out to be the CV axles. both had a ripped boot spewing oil all over the brake caliper and wheel wells. The biggest mistake i made was to ignore the problem and keep driving but that costed me new brakes and rotors. thankfully the CV axles in my case were not that expensive installing myself. but make sure you have the right replacements for your transmission. Manual and automatic transmission I believe have different measurements. The process can be fixed with two hands but you'll probably need an extra pair for strength to get the new ones in tight.
 

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This started a few months ago. At first it only happened when making a hard right turn, its a repeated click or grinding noise. Over time it has gotten worse, and now happens when turning either direction, and its worse the faster the car is going. Turing into the parking space at our apartment is fine... turning from one street to another going to work is not. Various things I looked up suggested the cv joint, but when I went to parts stores websites to look up prices all it gave me was cv boot kits in the results. Is this whats actually wrong, and is it something easily fixed for a DIY person?

Thanks.
as others mentioned, it could be the cv joint. HOWEVER, it could also be wheel bearings (you'll hear a lot of clicking/rattling noises). mine were going out last year on my 140K mile 2004 Accent. just do what I did.

ordered replacement wheel bearings AND CV Halfshaft assemblies (left and right). from RockAuto they are about $125 total in parts&shipping. each drive axle was $43+shipping and bearings were about $15/each.
turns out my drive axles were just fine. but for $43, you can't beat that with a stick! don't forget to apply 5% discount code!
CARDONE SELECT Part # 663311
CARDONE SELECT Part # 663313
TIMKEN Part # 510055 (bearings)

the good news? to replace the bearings you have to take off the hub, once that's done the drive axle can literally be pulled right out. you might as well do it all at once.

the bad news? unless you got tools, this ain't a DYI job unless you got an impact wrench that can take off a castlenut torqued to 180lb/ft. the wheel bearings have to be pressed in with a hydraulic press. pay someone the $200-300 in labor to do the job for you. if you can get the nut off then take the bearings to get pressed in but it will still run you about $20/hub. why bother? pay the mechanic to do the job and have him put a warranty (at least 1 year) on his labor.
 

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although not impossible, clicking is VERY unlikely from a bearing. would usually present with howling or grinding noises. this is why i have been encouraging to check the boots...would confirm. bearings are easily checked by removing the wheel, grabbing the studs with your hand and checking for play by putting some radial force on it.

replacing the bearings at home is not as hard as you make it out to be. if your impact gun can't handle 180 ft-lbs, what kind of crap tools are you buying??

a hydraulic press is completely unnecessary. its nice if you have it, but not needed. i have done this job using a simple screw type bearing puller/installer set that i 'rented' for free from a local parts store (partsource for anyone in canada).

why do this yourself? i'm not spending $200-300 on a disposable crap car if i don't have to. i'm also not about to waste my time taking the hubs to a shop and waiting for them to do the work.

on the other hand if bearing work isn't your thing, there's nothing wrong with having someone do it....thats just my opinion and nothing more.

all that aside, the OP needs to check under the car. until thats done we know nothing.

he also has not posted in this thread since september 10...lets let the dead thread lie in its grave in peace.
 
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