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I have a 2005 Accent 1.6 DOHC with 55000 true miles. The car has been sitting for a few years, it was running when parked. Before trying to start it recently, I dropped the tank & cleaned it out. I also noticed in the process the float was not moving freely & the overall appearance of the fuel pump was rough. So I put a new one in. I also changed the oil & lubricated the upper cylinders before bumping the engine over. Car would not start, cranks great. It did not appear to getting fuel. There is no power going to the fuel pump nor is the fuel gauge registering & I put 4 gallons of fresh gas in. I checked the relay & fuses under the hood. The fuel pump relay is good (switched with a like one that I know is good), have 1 post hot & a second hot with the key on (green wire). All injectors have 1 side hot with the key on. I've re-tightened the grounds under the dash. I've looked at several schematics online but cannot pin down the color coding at the fuel pump. There are 4 wires at the the pump. 1 pink (which I believe to go to the fuel gauge) 1 green 1 black which all look to be 14-16 gauge & 1 black a little heavier 12-14 gauge. Looking to jump new source to hot & ground just to hear it run. Then I can keep going forth. Any help on the color coding or what might be the trouble would be greatly appreciated. Thank You! I hope I did this post correct....1st time.
 

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Car would not start, cranks great.
Okay

It did not appear to getting fuel. There is no power going to the fuel pump nor is the fuel gauge registering & I put 4 gallons of fresh gas in.
You have found the problem

I checked the relay & fuses under the hood. The fuel pump relay is good (switched with a like one that I know is good), have 1 post hot & a second hot with the key on (green wire). All injectors have 1 side hot with the key on. I've re-tightened the grounds under the dash.
So control side of relay is good. Relay is good.
That leaves the wiring, connectors

Looking to jump new source to hot & ground just to hear it run. Then I can keep going forth. Any help on the color coding or what might be the trouble would be greatly appreciated. Thank You! I hope I did this post correct....1st time.
Looks like you know what you are doing.
 

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There is no power going to the fuel pump nor is the fuel gauge registering
I know you have said there is no power going to the fuel pump, but you have also said that the fuel gauge isn't working. The part of the circuit that is common to the pump and the gauge is the ground, so I'd suggest you check that the tank unit grounds are good....black wires.

The other thing to check is that power is being supplied to the fuel pump check terminal on the engine bay fusebox DURING CRANK. It's position should be marked on the fusebox lid..."F/P CHK"
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Tried to ground at the pump...not the the problem. However, it did tell me the unit ground is good. touched my temporary hot to it & received a small spark. which might mean my temp hot might not be strong enough. will try another power source.
 

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I know you have said there is no power going to the fuel pump, but you have also said that the fuel gauge isn't working. The part of the circuit that is common to the pump and the gauge is the ground, so I'd suggest you check that the tank unit grounds are good....black wires.

The other thing to check is that power is being supplied to the fuel pump check terminal on the engine bay fusebox DURING CRANK. It's position should be marked on the fusebox lid..."F/P CHK"

C'mon, Sparky...a 12 YO Hyundai with grounding problems???
Never happen....:D
 
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touched my temporary hot to it & received a small spark. which might mean my temp hot might not be strong enough.
I'm not sure shorting the supply and ground together is a very good method of test. Apart from anything else, how do you know the small spark was due to a weak "hot" and not a weak ground?
 

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I thought the temp hot and ground were for checking to see if the fuel pump was working???
Now, you're shorting things??? Bad news???
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
OK, IT'S ALIVE! last night as I had both fuel pumps on the work bench. I realized that the 2 three prong plugs inside the pump were backwards on the new pump. So the power was going to the gauge side. Switched the 2 identical plugs, tested the pump & works. Put the pump back in, ran power from ignition key on wire with a inline 20 amp fuse. Turned the key on, heard the fuel pump pressure up & the gauge is registering. Hit start, Fired up like its been running the whole time. No smoke, no miss, no noise, everything seems to be functioning like it should. Alternator putting out 14.4, water pump doing its job. You'd never know it had been sitting for 8 years. Grant it I have not pushed it much past an idle & I still have to figure out what is wrong with the original power supply. I don't like leaving things rigged, unless I find it's simply a broken hot wire. then that would mean there is an open ended hot wire some where that needs repairing. BTW the brief contact was to check if the ground was grounded.
 

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Timing belt? Even if it was replaced right before it got parked, I'd replace that. Like most if not all engines these days, it's an interference engine.

My dad's '04 sat for 3 yrs. I also went through the bring-it-back drill, & she fired right up. Runs fine with the exception of a rough idle - strong mid-range (given what it is), etc. Finding no other explanation for the idle quality along with no evidence of a belt change, I'm thinking I have a sloppy-loose 83,000 mile belt.

The car's currently waiting for me to find a donor car with a complete AC system - planning to do that retrofit while backing out of the belt & pump replacement - & I'm not driving it till that's done.
 

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Timing belt? Even if it was replaced right before it got parked, I'd replace that. Like most if not all engines these days, it's an interference engine.
Timing belt that sits in the engine??
Isn't almost the same as if it was just siting on the shelf of an auto parts store??
Isn't it the mileage that makes the difference??
 

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I wouldn't assume as much. Was the car out in the weather for 8 yrs or in a climate controlled garage? Even if the latter, it's been sitting under tension in one position for eight years. That's not good.

A belt & water pump swap costs $70 or $80 if you do it yourself. To me that small expense is well worth it, given that breaking the belt will almost certainly destroy the engine.
 

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Agreed, belt sitting in one position for a long time isn't good for the belt

In my area, belt, tensioner, idle pulley, water pump $150 plus taxs
 

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I could be misremembering, but it seems I've seen an online Hyundai parts vendor selling that kit for about half of $150 - just threw that out there as an example of how cheap it CAN be.

I'll use the same local import parts guy that I get e30 parts from, & he'll no-doubt need $150 +/- for known-good components. He knows I have the car & he's already stocked in what he knows I'll need over the next few months. That kind of service plus stupid questions cheerfully answered - with a minimum of pointing & laughing, too - that's worth money.

I dunno wtf I'll do if he decides to hang it up & retire.
 
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