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Discussion Starter #1
So this all started while I was Ubering. The car just sputtered and died. SO my customer had to get another Uber.


I just did the Timing belt, Balancer belt, pullys and water pump and a Lifetime Crankshaft sensor, 26K miles ago. The car runs and sounds great. I have no codes registering.




Anyway, The car started right back up. So I drove it "home", after filling it with gas. It WAS at a 1/4 tank when it died. Home was 132 miles and everything went fine. No issues.



The next night I'm out driving college kids around. It died again! This time at a 1/3rd of a tank) So I drove it home 32 miles, after adding $15 worth of gas. (Thinking it was the Fuel pump going out).
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So I changed the fuel pump the next morning, and went back to driving the next afternoon. I made 30 trips before it died with a passenger in the car again, AT 3 am!!!. This time we were on the highway, so I put it in Neutral and fired it up on the move! We got off the highway and it did it again, 2 miles tops to his drop off, so I limped it (restarted it in motion) three times more. Then dropped him off, and logged out of Uber.


So I sat on the side of the road searching for ANYTHING online, that might explain this.


There was a lot about my Crank sensor, but it's new with a lifetime warrenty.


There's a little about the Fuel Pump. It's now new too.


I found a couple of references to a Throttle Position sensor causing cars to die. So I replaced that yesterday.


Driving today it died on the highway with a 3 passenger pool trip running. AGAIN I was able to restart it in motion multiple times and drop them off!


I sat for 30 min. Cleaned the connectors, Tightened connectors. Hunted for anything loose!


Then drove it for another hour before it did it again.


I hear loud clicks from the console when it dies. Might it be my ECU??


I'm desperate, bleeding out!
 

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Lifetime CKP.. sound like a discount part..

Then when we install CKP on the old 2.4L,, if you dont know what you doing with the install,, very easy for pigtail to have a chat with the timing belt and fray the wires in the pigtail and short them out..

That be my first suspect,, been there, done that..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was trying to "keep it short" lol
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Yes, I too did not get the wire into the groove the first time. It ate that sucker in a few days. lol



The replacement was a cheap Amazon part. Died in two months!! The wire was good, but it was dead (There was a code when it died).



The new Lifetime warranty part went on, on the side of the road. However I was very careful to get the wire routed properly in the channel, I doubt it popped out.. Hence my cleaning the connector thoroughly thinking it was a bad connection.


I bought the Crankshaft position sensor at O'reilly's, it's the only one they carry for this car.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Lifetime CKP.. sound like a discount part..

Then when we install CKP on the old 2.4L,, if you dont know what you doing with the install,, very easy for pigtail to have a chat with the timing belt and fray the wires in the pigtail and short them out..

That be my first suspect,, been there, done that..

So it's your opinion that the Crankshaft position sensor is definitely the culprit? The Brand name on the part is Import Direct. Pt#19-0456. I paid $59 with taxes.




I honestly do not want to do it again! :frown: Even if it will be free.
 

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Get an obd reader first. Usually you should get OEM parts when sensors break, but import direct from oreilly auto is pretty reliable too
 

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Do you get a CEL? Scan for codes? We don't want to guess. We want to test and get it right.
You replace the fuel pump without anything more than a hunch.....at least it seems that way from your post.
Please give us something we can go on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The car runs and sounds great. I have no codes registering.

There is no Check Engine Light, I have No codes registering..



There is no code for running out of gas. Your car simply sputters and dies. I can assume that if I run out of gas, get no Check engine light, or codes and I have a half tank of gas, that it might be the fuel pump. I didn't just "guess". However with no access to a fuel pressure sensor, None built into the car and a pump only costing $58. I went ahead and replaced it. Now I have a backup.
 

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There is no Check Engine Light, I have No codes registering.
That was after your first fix. Been trouble since. No CEL or codes NOW I take it. If not, I don't know what to tell you. A failing cks sensor should set a code and turn on the CEL.Should have done that on the first failure. We may want to look at The PCM for a problem. Have you cleaned all the grounds?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay,.... There are and have not been any Check Engine lights or codes for almost 25000 miles (the last time I changed the CPS). The car runs beautifully.


I can drive anywhere from 40-800 miles before is suddenly starts kicking lightly, I start hearing the clatter from the console, then dies. It will always start up immediately. Usually before I even loose any speed. The only way to get any real miles again, is to stop and wait a few minutes with the engine shut off completely.



If I pull over and give it a break for a while. It runs without issue for another 45-800 miles.


Hence my ECU thoughs. Overheading Relay? Bad solder joint??
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I went out and checked my Negative and Positive connections. Everything is spotless. It took a little to get a view of the engine side of both, they are not only clean, but also very tight.


So,.. are we down to the ECU/ PCM??? Might that be located in the console, near the shifter? where I hear clattering when the car dies?


I checked, and O'reilly's does have another Crankshaft position sensor in stock. If we still think that might be the case.
 

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You'll want to check the grounds at the body and frame not just the battery. I believe if you check (follow the wires from the cable) there will be two at the body one at the strut tower. These should be removed and clean paint off and make sure you have good clean tight connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Honestly, I doubt it has anything to do with the Negative contacts. I'll pull the battery, and air cleaner in the morning. So I can "clean" the contact under it, on the body. I doubt that it looks any different then the perfect one on the Engine block, or the one on the Starter though.

This car's electrical looks perfect. I see absolutely no corrosion. The battery is 6 months old. I don't even see a little bit corrosion on either terminal. I'd guess that as good as it looks, the previous owner may have replaced the cables!?

Honestly, I'm thinking a bad connector on the CPS, or a bad ECU (/PCM????). Or maybe that Crank Position sensor is just bad, Maybe a bad fuel pump relay (like my 92 Accord?)??

So far I don't remember this ever happening when the car was cold, or when the engine compartment was cold (or not excessively hot anyway). I think it has always been very warm in the cabin. Both "night time" break downs were with the heater running. Today and last Sunday it was mid day heat. A/C was off both times. Yet driving to the city with the AC on 135 miles, I have no problem.

I'm going to try driving tomorrow with the AC on as soon as my coat is off. If cold stops it, then it has to be the ECU (Which I am STILL guessing is in the console, where the loud clatter comes from when the car dies).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Please confirm that the ECU (or PCM???) is in the console. Essentially just above the cigarette lighter?


If heat is what's getting it? I'll crack that sucker open and find me some bad solder joints. Fix this bitch for $0.20! (Just like that Honda Relay, My Silverado ABS module, My buddies $2000 oven computer, etc, etc etc.....)
 

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Sure sounds like a flaky CPS to me.
Possibly getting hot and then dying only to restart instantly once it cools off a little?
Either that or the wiring is shorting out and it's not throwing a code.
From what I remember, it is impossible to route the CPS wiring properly without removing the timing belt and one of the stationary pullies.
The AC compressor bracket may also need to be removed but I can't be certain of that part.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
The actual failior has been exactly the same as when the CPS failed the second time. The first time was a couple of weeks after the Timing belt. It kicked the code, but kept running. I never had a dead car, and the wire was straight cut!


The cheap ass Amazon sensor ran fine, until it failed just like I am experiencing now. It sputtered and died. Then started and ran 65 miles. However later that day, it failed outright. Flying down the highway it was done, and kicked the CPS code. They towed me to a side street where I took a Lyft to get the new O'reilly sensor.


I'm becoming a pro at this engine's Timing belt. Honestly it IS the easiest one I've ever done for a DOHC! I did it the first time in 7 hours, and took at least four 30 min breaks. However I can tell you. IT CAN be installed with the belt slipped out to the very outer edge of the pulleys (not the pump pulley). The wire channel is deep, and it's not difficult to get the wire deep into the groove either. It's just difficult to see.


You might be right too! Maybe the wire DID slip out (I sure hope not because I'd have to buy ANOTHER ONE!! lol). However I equally agree that if NOT, If it's undamaged? It'd still suck! I'd get a free one. But I am REALLY tired of this G.D. sensor!! It may be the worst thing on the car (Joining the electric gas door, and trunk lid!).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm still going to go drive people to work in this car tomorrow morning!


As I said, it has yet to fail when it's cold out. I have no code. I doubt any mechanic could recreate it. So they couldn't fix it either! I need to pay my rent tomorrow! Yet I've spend it on this car, trying to keep working. Trying to make MORE $$!


It took me an hour to do the CPS last time, in the dark. I could likely beat that at noon right?



I'll do it after commute time. LOL
 

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I did the timing belt, balance shaft belt, all pullies, water pump and CPS just about 6 months ago on my 2005.
I had to remove one of the idler pullies in order to get the CPS harness to route in the factory location.
Don't remember if I needed to remove the AC bracket to get to the CPS wiring or if that was to swap the water pump.


I'm too old and have worked on too many cars in the past 6 months to remember details without being right in the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
YES you have to remove the Power steering bracket and it's solid pulley.


That has nothing to do with my problem though.
 

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Honestly, I doubt it has anything to do with the Negative contacts. I'll pull the battery, and air cleaner in the morning. So I can "clean" the contact under it, on the body. I doubt that it looks any different then the perfect one on the Engine block, or the one on the Starter though.

This car's electrical looks perfect. I see absolutely no corrosion. The battery is 6 months old. I don't even see a little bit corrosion on either terminal. I'd guess that as good as it looks, the previous owner may have replaced the cables!?

Honestly, I'm thinking a bad connector on the CPS, or a bad ECU (/PCM????). Or maybe that Crank Position sensor is just bad, Maybe a bad fuel pump relay (like my 92 Accord?)??

So far I don't remember this ever happening when the car was cold, or when the engine compartment was cold (or not excessively hot anyway). I think it has always been very warm in the cabin. Both "night time" break downs were with the heater running. Today and last Sunday it was mid day heat. A/C was off both times. Yet driving to the city with the AC on 135 miles, I have no problem.

I'm going to try driving tomorrow with the AC on as soon as my coat is off. If cold stops it, then it has to be the ECU (Which I am STILL guessing is in the console, where the loud clatter comes from when the car dies).
You would be surprised how many of these have body grounds that look fine and are bad. It's just a good policy to clean them up when at this age. You can do them all in a half hour or less and it will definitely keep you from having other issues in the future even if it doesn't solve your current problem. I just don't like to throw parts at a problem when there's many times problems are solved doing these simple maintenance issues.
 
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