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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Does the 2004 Hyundai Accent, US spec, manual trans car have an intertia or fuel cut-off switch? This car is brand new to me and is a crank no-start situation right now. Minor front end collission. Radiator damaged and driver's headlight only. It's not too bad, really. No airbag deployment.


I can't see any damaged sensors or wires. Battery was dead so I dropped in a fresh one to get it to crank. Cranks like it wants to start but won't. I know many manufacturers have an intertia sensor that needs to be reset (push a button) if the car has a sudden jolt or bump / accident so the car doesn't continue to pump fuel at high pressure in the even of an accident. These are commonly found in the engine bay on the firewall or strut tower.



I can't seem to find one on this car. I'm pretty convinced that's the problem. Any suggestions on where to look? Noting mentioned in the owner's manual.


Thans for any help
 

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Does the 2004 Hyundai Accent, S spec, manual trans car have an intertia or fuel cut-off switch? This car is brand new to me and is a crank no-start situation right now. Minor front end collission. Radiator damaged and driver's headlight only. It's not too bad, really. No airbag deployment.


I can't see any damaged sensors or wires. Battery was dead so I dropped in a fresh one to get it to crank. Cranks like it wasn't to start but won't. I know many manufacturers have an intertia sensor that needs to be reset (push a button) if the car has a sudden jolt or bump / accident so the car doesn't continue to pump fuel at high pressure in the even of an accident. These are commonly found in the engine bay on the firewall or strut tower.



I can't seem to find one on this car. I'm pretty convinced that's the problem. Any suggestions on where to look? Noting mentioned in the owner's manual.


Thans for any help
Ford puts them in the trunk on their cars and right kick panels in the trucks. We need to find out if it uses one. Can you verify it's not in theft mode?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There is no alarm or power locks or windows-- all manual and no fob. Just regular keys.
 

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If you do your own repairs you might want to get a subscription to Alldata.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the suggestion. I thought this forum might be a good start to learn if there is a simple button to push and where it may be located.
 

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Well. I think you'll get your answer in time but you may be a while and you may be sent down several rabbit trails in the mean time.
 

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Does the 2004 Hyundai Accent, US spec, manual trans car have an intertia or fuel cut-off switch? This car is brand new to me and is a crank no-start situation right now. Minor front end collission. Radiator damaged and driver's headlight only. It's not too bad, really. No airbag deployment.


I can't see any damaged sensors or wires. Battery was dead so I dropped in a fresh one to get it to crank. Cranks like it wants to start but won't. I know many manufacturers have an intertia sensor that needs to be reset (push a button) if the car has a sudden jolt or bump / accident so the car doesn't continue to pump fuel at high pressure in the even of an accident. These are commonly found in the engine bay on the firewall or strut tower.



I can't seem to find one on this car. I'm pretty convinced that's the problem. Any suggestions on where to look? Noting mentioned in the owner's manual.


Thans for any help
According to the MFI Control System diagrams, it appears there is no fuel cut-off switch for the fuel pump control circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
According to the MFI Control System diagrams, it appears there is no fuel cut-off switch for the fuel pump control circuit.
Thank you for the quality response and the diagrams. I have saved them for future reference. On to trouble-shooting the crank, no-start situation. I'll start with crank position sensor and cam position sensor
 

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On to trouble-shooting the crank, no-start situation. I'll start with crank position sensor and cam position sensor
You might want to start with a couple of simpler things. Like check for spark at the plugs and check that the fuel pump is switching on DURING CRANK.

To check that the fuel pump is being switched on you just need to measure the voltage on the F/P CHK terminal on the engine bay fusebox. You should get 9~10V there DURING CRANK if the fuel pump is being switched on by the PCM.
 

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Ford puts them in the trunk on their cars and right kick panels in the trucks. We need to find out if it uses one. Can you verify it's not in theft mode?

They (Ford/Lincoln/Mercury) also put them in the left (driver's) kick panel in some cars. There are/were probably other locations used too.
 

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There is a check fuel pump connector somewhere according to the diagram. This will usually fire the fuel pump to test it manually. If no crank signal is seem the ECU may not fire the fuel pump.
 

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Crank, no start
Usually begin with the basic checks
Check for spark
Check for fuel injector pulse
Check for fuel pump activity
Etc ... (fuel, air, spark, timing, exhaust, compression, etc)

Those checks or test tell you where to take your troubleshooting
 

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There is a check fuel pump connector somewhere according to the diagram. This will usually fire the fuel pump to test it manually. If no crank signal is seem the ECU may not fire the fuel pump.
That's not quite right.

When the key is turned the PCM grounds the fuel pump and will keep that ground for 2 seconds after which time if the PCM does not get a start signal (whether from a missing crank signal or something else like theft module) it will turn off the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You might want to start with a couple of simpler things. Like check for spark at the plugs and check that the fuel pump is switching on DURING CRANK.

To check that the fuel pump is being switched on you just need to measure the voltage on the F/P CHK terminal on the engine bay fusebox. You should get 9~10V there DURING CRANK if the fuel pump is being switched on by the PCM.
Thanks for the pointers and confirming where to check for voltage to the fuel pump.


Problem solved, though: Bad connection on the crank position sensor. Repaired and it now runs just fine


Really appreciate the constructive feedback.



I initially suspected the possibility of an inertia switch because of my experience with an injected Rover Mini that had one and would trigger if I bottomed out on a large pothole and because the damage on the Accent is so minor that it could have been just enough to trigger a similar device. Good to know it doesn't have one.
 

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Thanks for the pointers and confirming where to check for voltage to the fuel pump.


Problem solved, though: Bad connection on the crank position sensor. Repaired and it now runs just fine


Really appreciate the constructive feedback.



I initially suspected the possibility of an inertia switch because of my experience with an injected Rover Mini that had one and would trigger if I bottomed out on a large pothole and because the damage on the Accent is so minor that it could have been just enough to trigger a similar device. Good to know it doesn't have one.
Seen this same issue with many Ford trucks and guys using them like rock climbers in a race through the wilds.
:laugh:
 

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Problem solved, though: Bad connection on the crank position sensor. Repaired and it now runs just fine.
Great to hear you got it running and it was a simple repair. Hope the rest of the repairs are as straight forward.
 
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