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Discussion Starter #1
It’ great to be able to receive opinions from other owners, so thanks in advance.
My 04 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD seems to have been a challenge since the day I bought her new. Some of the common problems that I have read about in some of the forum’s postings.
I through trial and error discovered things like never use a Gates serpentine belt, only OEM Hyundai or expect the sequel from he!!.
This weekend I plan to replace the rotors and pads because of two warped ones. Replacing them with Duralast rotors and ceramic pads.
Within a month, a spark plug change done by a reputable repair shop because I don’t feel comfortable tackling the intake removal ( 70K on the odometer ).
Already had the timing belt replaced at 60k, but I could use some opinions and help.

I want to change the trans fluid, but the dealership wants a body part in cost. I mean WOW!
Can I do it myself?
Can I simply drain out the old and replace with new without a filter change? My current fluid is not burnt.
Must I use Hyundai OEM fluid?

Thanks for your help.
Bob
 

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Only use the SPIII fluid from the dealer. Others have used other fluids with varying amouts of success. The ones that reported failures I can only theorize it's because they didn't do a complete flush as you will see in the video but only drained the pan and in doing so had a fluid compatability issue and fried the transmission. Since I don't have any data to support my theory I just stick with what Hyundai recommends to be better off safe than sorry.

Check this video out as well as this PDF from Amsoil as a general guide to do a complete flush on your own. There is no filter to replace. Just drain the fluid from the pan and replace it with the same amout. I usually use half gallon containers to empty the old fluid to make it easier to measure what came out. When draining the fluid from the torque converter through the cooling lines I only empty out a half gallon (2 quarts) at a time, shut the engine off add the 2 quarts to the pan and repeat. By doing it this way I don't have to worry if I put to much or too little. I have done it twice on mine and the level is dead on unless short on fluid to begin with. Mine takes 8.9 quarts so I run a total of 10 quarts through to make sure I get everything out. If you want to take it a step further you can use an air hose on low pressure to blow out the old fluid that is still in the oil cooler.

You should have a helper when you do this the first time. I do it on my own and run a hose from the cooling line directly into a half gallon container, start the car and I align the container so I can see it from under the drivers side door to give myself enough time to shut the car off before it reaches the top. I hope this helps you.

Another thing you should do if you have not already done so is your transfer case which should have the oil replaced every 62,000 miles or 25,000 for severe service and the rear axle oil should be replaced every 50,000. Both use 80w-90 API GL-5 gear oil. I usually do my transfer case the same time I do the transmission fluid change every 40,000 since I do a good amout of highway driving. I find that inspecting the condition of the transmission fluid gives me a good idea of what the condition of the gear oil is in the transfer case. If your fluid is burnt at 30,000 then the transfer case fluid logically would have gone through the same kind of abuse.
 

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QUOTE (Vistula @ Sep 19 2010, 11:09 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=357217
It’ great to be able to receive opinions from other owners, so thanks in advance.
My 04 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD seems to have been a challenge since the day I bought her new. Some of the common problems that I have read about in some of the forum’s postings.

I through trial and error discovered things like never use a Gates serpentine belt, only OEM Hyundai or expect the sequel from he!!.

This weekend I plan to replace the rotors and pads because of two warped ones. Replacing them with Duralast rotors and ceramic pads.
Wagner Thermo-Quiet Pads be good choice.

Within a month, a spark plug change done by a reputable repair shop because I don’t feel comfortable tackling the intake removal ( 70K on the odometer ).
You supply the shop with NGK Platinum, or upgrade to NGK IRIDIUM spark plugs, and supply them with the OE Hyundai wire set and plenum gasket, best to the complete package while intake is off... dont want to come up with misfire codes in 2 week and have to do whole job over to replace wire set

Already had the timing belt replaced at 60k, but I could use some opinions and help.

I want to change the trans fluid, but the dealership wants a body part in cost. I mean WOW!
What is WOW ??

Can I do it myself?
Yes

Can I simply drain out the old and replace with new without a filter change?
Yes, you'll get approx 5qt.. Pull it in Fri night, remove plug, and leave it sit over night.. there is a couple 3 pressure test ports at bottom front, remove the bolts and let them bleed overnight too

My current fluid is not burnt.

Must I use Hyundai OEM fluid?
Hyundai or Kia SP-III auto transmission Fluid --> 00232-19012

Thanks for your help.
Bob
Go buy 6qt, add 4, start engine, let it get good and hot (ATF), and correct the fluid level in "N".... not "P"

May consider change transfer case oil, along with the rear axle oil too... you'll need approx 3 qt of 80/90 GL5 oil.. drop the bucks for Mobil-1 here.. $4500 approx to replace the transfer...
 

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I feel a little self conscious coming in after SBR, but I did the pan fluid change on my Santa a couple of months ago. It improved shifting noticeably and was easy enough that I'll probably make it an annual event with an oil change to keep the transmission fluid renewed. Dropping the splash pan is the biggest hassle; there's nothing to the drain/fill. I used 4.5 quarts to bring the level up.

Question for SBR: Is it really necessary to replace the plenum gasket, or just a good idea in case the old one is damaged?
 

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QUOTE (DSHornet @ Sep 19 2010, 07:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=357296
.Question for SBR: Is it really necessary to replace the plenum gasket, or just a good idea in case the old one is damaged?
It is cheap insurance, gasket is approx $11 I think it is (priced 1 for a 3.5 Fri)
 

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QUOTE (Vistula @ Sep 19 2010, 11:09 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=357217
Can I simply drain out the old and replace with new without a filter change? My current fluid is not burnt.
Must I use Hyundai OEM fluid?

Thanks for your help.
Bob
I would do a drain/fill cycle and then another after some days/weeks of normal usage. There is no pan to drop nor filter to change and these transaxles are equipped with a handy drain plug making a drain/fill easier than an engine oil change. Having to use only Hyundai SPIII has been debunked so many times it's ridiculous, especially for the F4A51 trans that you have. Valvoline Maxlife ATF, Castrol Import and Amsoil to name a few work perfectly and without fail on these transmissions. I have NOT read of a SINGLE incidence of failure with any "Suitable for use where Hyundai SPIII is spec'd" ATF being used in place of dealer Hyundai ATF. I have over 15000mi with Maxlife ATF being used in my 2008 Santa Fe. (40K to 56K miles) and it behaves flawlessly. I've got nothing against the dealer stuff, but saying you HAVE to use it is simply not true and has been proven by many of us. There's nothing magical about SPIII. It's a run of the mill, highly friction modified ATF. All you need is an ATF that specs it's suitable for use where Hyundai SPIII is spec'd and there's gotta be 4-5 of them available now above what I listed.

Joel
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you everyone for your help.
Transmission drain plug eh? You can see I haven't even looked for it.
The last time I did this job was on an American car and of course you had to drop the pan and replace the gasket.
 

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QUOTE (Vistula @ Sep 20 2010, 09:27 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=357576
Thank you everyone for your help.
Transmission drain plug eh? You can see I haven't even looked for it.
The last time I did this job was on an American car and of course you had to drop the pan and replace the gasket.
I could never figure out why American cars didn't have drain plugs in the tranny pan. Some even have drain plugs in the torque converter so they can be drained, but still none in the pan. The "filter" on these is a fairly course screen and unless your tranny is shelling out, you never find anything in them. If it's going bad, you will see the metal in the fluid when you drain it, or even on the dipstick.
I think I'll just drain and add periodically, like maybe every 2nd or 3rd oil change, to keep the additives fresh and let it go at that. I just changed the oil yesterday and got called away as soon as the oil and filter were changed, so didn't get any farther with servicing it. Fluid still looks good so maybe in 3000 miles I'll do it... that will be @ about 67K.
I do think this thing is running better now that I've had it on the highway for almost 2000 miles... it needed the exercise.
 

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ENEOS is a great product, but it's no more of a genuine Hyundai SP-III than Valvoline Maxlife ATF or the others are. It says right on the bottle "Compatible with SP-III requirements". All the others say the same thing.

Joel
 

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QUOTE (PoMansAWD @ Jan 1 2011, 12:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=385443
ENEOS is a great product, but it's no more of a genuine Hyundai SP-III than Valvoline Maxlife ATF or the others are. It says right on the bottle "Compatible with SP-III requirements". All the others say the same thing.

Joel
FANTASTIC! Being that I'm light years away from a dealer, this helps beyond belief.
Thank You - Happy New Year!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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This subject has been addressed so many times I'm amazed that there are still people out there that say it isn't necessary to use Hyundai/Kia/Mitsubishi SPIII fluid.

Use SPIII. It was made for the car and the car was made for it. Don't take expensive chances with your transportation. Get the OEM fluid at a dealership and you know it will be the right thing for the application.
 

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QUOTE (Vistula @ Sep 19 2010, 08:09 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=357217
Must I use Hyundai OEM fluid?
As others have pointed out, you must use SP-III fluid in the transmission but you can shop around for price. SP-III is also sold by every Kia and Mitsubishi dealership. I've occasionally seen the Diamond brand of SP-III sold in some aftermarket stores, but that was 3 or so years ago right after I buy my Sonata. I haven't looked lately.
 

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QUOTE (DSHornet @ Jan 3 2011, 06:43 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=386337
This subject has been addressed so many times I'm amazed that there are still people out there that say it isn't necessary to use Hyundai/Kia/Mitsubishi SPIII fluid.

Use SPIII. It was made for the car and the car was made for it. Don't take expensive chances with your transportation. Get the OEM fluid at a dealership and you know it will be the right thing for the application.

No doubt it keeps coming up is because some people use these other substitutes and don't have a problem with them. I've read ad nauseum about only using oem fluids for this transmission. If it were so harmful to use spIII spec'ed after market fluid, we should be hearing a corresponding amount of posts about people who have had trashed transmissions(and the reason why). I have spent an inordinate amount of time this past year trying to research timing belt failure numbers and don't recall a single transmission failure being associated with after market spIII spec'ed fluids. Dextron, yes, but thats a fish of another color. So bring me a post or news article that correlates what you assert, and I'll drain my tranny the next day. JMHO
 

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QUOTE (johnaauld @ Jan 4 2011, 11:15 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=386493
..bring me a post or news article that correlates what you assert, and I'll drain my tranny the next day. JMHO

John, I hear you. I don't know how many times I've countered the "must use SP-III only" crowd with this exact question and the conversation completely dries up afterwards. They don't have a leg to stand on with this argument.

Joel
 

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QUOTE (PoMansAWD @ Jan 1 2011, 01:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=385443
ENEOS is a great product, but it's no more of a genuine Hyundai SP-III than Valvoline Maxlife ATF or the others are. It says right on the bottle "Compatible with SP-III requirements". All the others say the same thing.

Joel
I'll beat this topic to death some more. :innocent: I called the maker of ENEOS today and got info about the ENEOS SP fluid. Nippon is licensed to make SPIII fluid for the factory fill for Hyundai so when we bought our cars new this is the exact fluid it came with. The fluid that we buy at the dealers are a slightly different formulation because they are from a different licensed distributor but either way both meet or exceed the specs for use in our transmissions. The fluid is dino, not semi or fully synthetic. I also asked about the multi vehicle atf's on the market. If they state SPIII on their product data sheet then you can use them. You will not ruin your transmission or liquify clutch packs and all this other non sense. The only thing you will notice is whether or not the transmission shifts smoothly. In other words some multi vehicle ATF's will work better than others because the fluid characteristics of each are slightly different. The only exception for fluid use are CVT transmissions. In that case you must use fluid made specifically for CVT's.
One other comment about the product data sheets. The data sheets found around the net are not always complete. Many times they are missing specs or the formulation of the product is updated and the data sheets are not. You must call the distributor to get the latest specs. One example is the Super Tech and Mag 1 Multi Vehicle ATF's. The are the same product. In the case of the product data sheet for Mag 1 it does list Hyundai but doesn't specifically say SPIII. Additionally the bottle of Super Tech doesn't even mention SPIII but it does support it.

SPIII is not some magic formula and our transmissions are not any different in materials used than other transmissions. If you are planning on switching from SPIII to a multi vehicle ATF make sure you completely get the old fluid out for fluid compatability reasons. Simply draining the pan won't do it. You must drain the pan, refill with new fluid and then pop off the oil cooling lines and run the engine draining 2 quarts at a time until the fluid comes through clean.. This way you completely drained the torque converter of the old fluid.

Typical Properties ENEOS ATF TYPE SP
Appearance Red
Density (15°C) g/cm3 0.859
Flash point (COC) °C 206
Kinematic viscosity
(40°C) mm2/s 36.23
(100°C) mm2/s 7.388
Viscosity index 175
Low-temperature viscosity(–40°C) mPa•s 16,800
Pour point °C <-45
TAN mgKOH/g 1.23
TBN (HClO4 method) mgKOH/g 2.69
Copper strip corrosion (100°C, 3 h) 1b
Aniline point °C 107
Foaming prevention, ml/ml
Seq. I 0/0
Seq. II 10/0
Seq. III 0/0
Note: The typical properties may be changed without notice. (August 6, 2009)
 

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You can take chances with your transportation and analyze your opinion until the Second Coming. As long as the SP III fluid is available at a local dealership at a reasonable price, I have no reason to change my point of view.

I know the OEM fluid will be the right stuff. Any other may not.
 

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QUOTE (DSHornet @ Jan 7 2011, 09:31 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=388122
You can take chances with your transportation and analyze your opinion until the Second Coming. As long as the SP III fluid is available at a local dealership at a reasonable price, I have no reason to change my point of view.

I know the OEM fluid will be the right stuff. Any other may not.
@DSHornet, I respect your view.
I think I stated fact by providing information to the ENEOS fluid which IS the genuine factory fill for Hyundai's products. Around my area the dealer fluid runs for almost 7 bucks a quart (how on earth is that considered reasonable for dino) and I can get same genuine fluid for 5 (still not cheap but less) in a different bottle. When I have to get 9 to 10 quarts to do the job right it adds up. I took some of my time to actually make calls and gather some good information for myself and others to hopefully benefit from it. If people want to use the genuine fluid it is available in a bottle with a different name on it and that fact won't change until the second coming.
 

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QUOTE (pemdas1972 @ Jan 8 2011, 01:14 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=388194
If people want to use the genuine fluid it is available in a bottle with a different name on it and that fact won't change until the second coming.
:grin: Thanks. Do we have a little friendly discussion going on?

Your statement is interesting. I must have missed something you said before but it jumped out at me this time. Are you saying that the ENEOS fluid is what Hyundai/Kia/Mitsubishi puts their name on? Is that their vendor? I'm not sure where it would be available around my area, but the local Hyundai parts guy and I are on a good footing. He gives me a break on the price and I walk out with a nice, warm fuzzy with the right stuff in the box.
 
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