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Thank you this makes alittle more sense to me now. Ill probably head to autozone first thing in the morning in search for the wire and fuse setup. Oh where can I get my 12 volts from and how? Ill just type down what Im picturing in my head that makes sense to me from everything Ive seen so far, I hope I make sense of this.

So basically Im removing the connector from the bcm so that I can test the signal wires themselves to make sure current is getting through with out any problems. By doing this I will use the car battery? Oh great I think Im lost again.. ahh ok so I will use straight piece of wire like you mentioned and attach one end into the connector pin and the other end im not quite sure yet but I know there is a 5amp fuse in between the wire and where its going.
Pretty much. Wait for Sparks to come back to verify...he knows these cars a wee bit better than I do ;)

You can pick the 12V from any live circuit in the fuse box...there are a few, usually larger wires. A couple of them are on all the time, and a couple are switched with the key.

I shouldn't say any, you want one capable of handling the current; I would pick a 15 or 20A fuse to tap.
 

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Well done Steampunk for noticing that the ammeter input wasn't fused. I missed that until you mentioned it and I took a closer look.

I think adding a fuse to the jumper wire is an excellent idea. If you have any crimp on spade terminals you can use those to fit a fuse to the wire. If not an inline fuse holder like Steampunk suggested would work. What I'm suggesting you do isn't really risky but you've already seen how easy it is to make a mistake with the terminal numbers so I think it would be best to add a little protection in the form of a fuse...just in case.

Normally what you'd do with this type of fault is use the diagnostic scan tool to read the signal being sent to the BCM by the stalk switch. That would tell you if the BCM was receiving the correct signals from the switch. You'd then use the tool to do an activation test on the turn signal outputs from the BCM which basically switches on all the lamps to test the wiring, etc. Unfortunately you don't have a Hyundai specific scan tool to do these tests so you're having to do it manually.

I'm sure the right hand lamps didn't light up with the hazard switch on either which is why I suspect it's a fault on the output side of the BCM. If it was a fault with the stalk switch input signal they would have come on when the hazard switch was on since that is a totally different input.

Right, it's 4am over here so I'm off to get my beauty sleep :laugh:
 

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Well done Steampunk for noticing that the ammeter input wasn't fused. I missed that until you mentioned it and I took a closer look.

I think adding a fuse to the jumper wire is an excellent idea. If you have any crimp on spade terminals you can use those to fit a fuse to the wire. If not an inline fuse holder like Steampunk suggested would work. What I'm suggesting you do isn't really risky but you've already seen how easy it is to make a mistake with the terminal numbers so I think it would be best to add a little protection in the form of a fuse...just in case.

Normally what you'd do with this type of fault is use the diagnostic scan tool to read the signal being sent to the BCM by the stalk switch. That would tell you if the BCM was receiving the correct signals from the switch. You'd then use the tool to do an activation test on the turn signal outputs from the BCM which basically switches on all the lamps to test the wiring, etc. Unfortunately you don't have a Hyundai specific scan tool to do these tests so you're having to do it manually.

I'm sure the right hand lamps didn't light up with the hazard switch on either which is why I suspect it's a fault on the output side of the BCM. If it was a fault with the stalk switch input signal they would have come on when the hazard switch was on since that is a totally different input.

Right, it's 4am over here so I'm off to get my beauty sleep :laugh:
I figured we'd have to wait, since you guys are...5 hrs ahead of us? I figured you knocked off an hour ago! :D
 

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Correct, the hazard switch works just no flashing signals on the right side or flashing green arrow indicator int the dash, so basically just works as another left turn signal. great now I cant remember if the flashers actually activated the right side indicator on the dash but I know for a fact on the outside rear and front the signals did not work. For some reason I feel like the hazards might of had 2 green arrows on the dash. I went out to check but I just remembered that I left the neg terminal on the battery disconnected and the bcm in the state of the pictures posted for the night.

Thank you this makes alittle more sense to me now. Ill probably head to autozone first thing in the morning in search for the wire and fuse setup. Oh where can I get my 12 volts from and how? Ill just type down what Im picturing in my head that makes sense to me from everything Ive seen so far, I hope I make sense of this.

So basically Im removing the connector from the bcm so that I can test the signal wires themselves to make sure current is getting through with out any problems. By doing this I will use the car battery? Oh great I think Im lost again.. ahh ok so I will use straight piece of wire like you mentioned and attach one end into the connector pin and the other end im not quite sure yet but I know there is a 5amp fuse in between the wire and where its going.
I didn't see where you added the hazards not working, so as Sparks said it's pointing to the BCM. Try the wiring test and see what happens and if the bulbs do light up then it's a safe bet it's the BCM.

I would also try to Google info or pics on the BCM and where water is affecting it, and then try to come up with some kind of waterproof shielding to try to make sure it doesn't happen again.

I was kind of surprised to only find 50 or so of these. I know when I look for parts for my Surpa I may not find a lot, but I thought the Tibbys were more prolific than they appear to be!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
If im following what you guys are explaining correctly than the image attached below of whats in my brain should make sense assuming the wire is going in the right pin and fuse in the box. If thats what I have to do in the morning should I have the battery connected and key in the on position?

really appreciate the help guys and look forward to this in the morning. Thank you
 

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If im following what you guys are explaining correctly than the image attached below of whats in my brain should make sense assuming the wire is going in the right pin and fuse in the box. If thats what I have to do in the morning should I have the battery connected and key in the on position?

really appreciate the help guys and look forward to this in the morning. Thank you
That's what we's going to do!

Look at the connectors next to the fuses; these are the inputs from the engine compartment. One of thse should be a pretty burly wire with 12V key on or off. You don't need the key if you use that wire. Just stick one end of your jumper there and the other in the correct pin on the connector and the lights should turn on.

I'm gonna join Sparks in the land of "nod". If you can wait till 10AM EST one of us should be back!

Nighty night! :D
 

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If im following what you guys are explaining correctly than the image attached below of whats in my brain
Yeah, you've got the idea. Connect one end of the fuse holder to the fusebox main 12V supply wire then touch the opposite end to the 4 terminals I advised earlier. When you apply 12V to each of the terminals one of the turn signal lamps should light up. If the lamps all light up, the fault must be no voltage output from the BCM.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Alright so I went out and bought a fuse holder with 12 gauge wire (not sure if that matters) and I feel like im doing something wrong by connecting one end of the fuse holder in the fuse box with a 20 amp. Where is the the fuse box main supply and am I suppose to keep all connectors disconnected for this process? oh before I started I went ahead and plugged everything back in to make sure the hazards didnt activate the right side signal in anyway and nope it sure didnt, just was bothering me.

I feel like Im really close to being able to finish this step im just alittle slow.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Alright guys so while I was out there I tried something that I thought would make sense. I used jumper cables and some alligator clips to get 12v from the battery and it worked!

I was finally able to diagnose the wires and lamps and they both came on, front and back right side blinker lights! except as mentioned earlier it wouldnt blink and instead stay steady and thats what it did. I would have never knew what to do if I hadnt come here thank you guys so much I think I wouldve went out and spent money I didnt have on things I didnt need lol.

Alright so I know im not done and expecting bad news like its the bcm but i still feel relieved because this is an accomplishment for me hehe.
somehow I forgot what the next step would be Ill be looking back on this thread I just wanted to share this update.

Edit:
So is there still any chance that it could be the signal switch or was that ruled out by the hazards?
Also is it worth taking the bcm apart to look for anything in there like a relay that could fix the problem? Ive read that those need to be soldered on and Ive got some experience with soldering.
 

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The problem you had with your first attempt was you connected to a fuse on the fusebox, but the main fusebox power supply from the battery was disconnected so there wouldn't be any power on any of the fuses. All you had to do was connect to the wire that supplies power to the fusebox. It's the thick wire that plugs into to socket D/DE just above the fuses. I can see it dangling there in your photo :)

It doesn't really matter what you did was OK too and you accomplished the goal of confirming the wiring to the right hand lamps is OK. Unfortunately that does seem to confirm the fault is inside the fusebox/BCM but if you plug all the connectors back in you can use your new voltmeter to test the input signal from the switch. I'm sure the switch is OK but you can confirm just for the experience if you'd like.

The turn signal switch inputs are on connector H on the opposite side of the BCM...photos below. Right Hand Input is on terminal 3 & Left Hand Input is on terminal 13. Hazard input is terminal 18.

To test, connect the red meter probe to a 12V supply and touch the black probe onto terminal 3. Now move the stalk switch as if your going to turn right and the meter should show 12V. With the black probe on terminal 13, moving the switch to turn left should show 12V and switching the hazard lamp switch should show 12V on terminal 18. The hazard switch is a little different. It will only show 12V for as long as you hold in the switch in. When you release the switch the 12V will switch off.

BTW, the terminal numbers don't relate to the wires on the connector but to the available positions. For example, on your US car there won't be a wire at terminal 1 because that's for the immobilizer that US models don't have. But you still count that as terminal 1 even although it isn't used on your car...I hope you follow what I'm saying.

Scottie.



 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Ok I did what you mentioned and I get a 13.5v reading from pin 3 weather switch is on or not and a .400v reading from pin 13 weather switch turned or not and a 13.5 reading from pin 18 weather hazard is pushed or not. Im confused but the .4v doesnt look good Im guessing. Im using the 12v battery setting on my multimeter incase that matters.

Edit:
I also have every connector disconnected from back of the bcm (as showed in pics you just posted)
 

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So, this is maybe a bit advanced for the abilities you have right now but I think I see how this problem can be fixed fairly easily.

It looks like the relay inside the BCM that sends the voltage to the right hand turn signals has failed. You could possibly replace the relay but I think your need to have some pretty good soldering skills to remove the faulty relay from the circuit board inside the BCM. Since your new to soldering what you might be able to do is solder a single wire onto the solder pad that controls the operation of that relay, then route it to the outside of the BCM. You could then connect that wire to an external relay and use the external relay to power the right hand lamps. It means opening up the BCM but the casing just clips together and it isn't too difficult to dismantle.

As I said, this is perhaps a bit advanced for the skills you have right now, but I've attached a couple of photos to show the relay and where on the circuit board the wire would need to be soldered in case it can help someone else in the future.

GK Coupe/Tiburon BCM Circuit Board


Solder Pads Of Turn Signal Relay
 

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I also have every connector disconnected from back of the bcm (as showed in pics you just posted)
I think you'd need to have everything reconnected to test the switch. The switch may get it's ground from one of the BCM connectors that you have disconnected at the moment.

Also, I'm kinda guessing how the switch works because I don't have any wiring diagram for your car to hand right now.

Before you disconnected all the connectors off the BCM, when you switched on the RH turn signal did you hear the relay clicking on & off inside the BCM?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hey I kinda get what your saying but does that still apply even though I had all the back connectors disconnected? If so im kind of confident in my soldering and ability to remove and replace the relay. Is part number EP2-3N1ST off of mouser the relay I would need?

Still overlooking all my options here and making sense of everything. I forgot to listen for the click in the relay when I was back there but I noticed the white relay/plug or whatever it was on the back was a bit loose and when I removed it and shook it you could hear something bouncing inside of it, not sure if that was normal. I checked the blue relays on the back and they clicked when I added power and had continuity on the other sides. (not sure if any of that was even necessary).

So if I successfully solder a wire at the correct points on the bcm I would than need to lead it out to an external relay? Does that mean I would have to go purchase one or connect it to an existing relay on the car? Where would this relay and wire from the bcm be locating at if this worked?
 

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Is part number EP2-3N1ST off of mouser the relay I would need?
Yes, I think that is the correct relay. I think the best way to remove the original relay would be with a hot air gun. Trying to heat 10 solder pads all at once with a soldering iron wont be that easy.

bizzyvictor said:
So if I successfully solder a wire at the correct points on the bcm I would than need to lead it out to an external relay? Does that mean I would have to go purchase one or connect it to an existing relay on the car? Where would this relay and wire from the bcm be locating at if this worked?
I think you could make it work by soldering only one wire. You'd be able to do the rest of the wiring externally. You'd need to buy a new relay but it would just be a standard automotive type 4 terminal, 12V relay so it's not an expensive part. You'd mount the relay behind the dash near to the BCM. Two of the relay terminals would be supplied with 12V via a fuse, one would connect to the wire at terminal 17 of BCM connector FF and the fourth relay terminal would be connected to the wire coming from inside the BCM...diagram below :

GREEN SHOULD CONNECT TO FF TERMINAL 17 (RH Turn Signal Output)
 

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Do they just plug in? I haven't opened one up, but it looks like they may just plug in:



(My photo editing software isn't quite as neat as yours...)

Heh...one good thing about Linux: you can usually find the correct program in just a few minutes...
 

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Discussion Starter #37
So basically Instead of the wire going into the connector I would take the wire out of terminal 17 and feed it to the external relay leaving terminal 17 on connector ff empty? Ive attached a photo of how im making sense of everything you posted so far lets see if I got it lol.
 

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So basically Instead of the wire going into the connector I would take the wire out of terminal 17 and feed it to the external relay leaving terminal 17 on connector ff empty?
Your picture is more or less correct. The only thing wrong with it is you need to leave the wire on terminal 17 connected to the fusebox so the voltage from your additional relay will supply the circuit inside the BCM.

Remember when you done the lamp test earlier. When you applied voltage to terminal 17, only one lamp came on. You need to put voltage into the BCM on terminal 17 so it will supply voltage to the other lamps....do you follow?

So, don't disconnect the wire from terminal 17, just splice another wire onto it and connect the end of that wire to the 87 terminal of your relay.
 

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Do they just plug in? I haven't opened one up, but it looks like they may just plug in:
Those relay slots are for the electric window and heated rear screen relays. Yes, those ones just plug in but the turn signal relay is soldered directly to the circuit board. Wouldn't life be so much easier if they just used plug in relays for everything. But then they wouldn't sell so many BCMs.

Steampunk said:
Heh...one good thing about Linux: you can usually find the correct program in just a few minutes...
I use inkscape on both Windows & Linux for most of my circuit diagrams. Great bit of software and totally free too.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Ahh ok got it now thanks. Well work week has begun so things are going to be slowing down for me with this project. But I will keep updating as changes are made.

Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk
 
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