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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
When I use the left turn signals, both front and back work normal, when I use the right turn signals, nothing happens on front or back. It doesnt even show anything on the dash indicating that its on. compared to the left side there is a flashing green arrow, on the right side its blank and not making any noise.

I would greatly appreciate any help towards solving this problem today and will post updates on if your suggestion was the reason why.
 

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When I use the left turn signals, both front and back work normal, when I use the right turn signals, nothing happens on front or back. It doesnt even show anything on the dash indicating that its on. compared to the left side there is a flashing green arrow, on the right side its blank and not making any noise.

I would greatly appreciate any help towards solving this problem today and will post updates on if your suggestion was the reason why.
Well, you'd have to run through the circuit to find out what's gone wonky. Obvious thing is bulbs (have you changed to LEDs?), and the fuses, and the flasher unit. It may be integrated in the Body Control Module; some are, some aren't. See if you can find the wiring diagram somewhere for this car (Google can help...or perhaps some kind soul who has one can add...) and then the switch on the column. Again, the wiring diagram would help. I believe all controls inside the car switch to ground, so you can remove the steering wheel shroud, and if you know which wire in the connector is the right side then ground it and see if it works. If so you have a faulty switch.

I would do the bulbs first and then the switch, since they are the most likely culprits, and also the fuses. After that it becomes a bit more involved.

Good luck.
 

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Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
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I always like to try easy tests first, so switch on the hazard lamps and see if the right hand lamps work with the hazards on. That will tell you if the bulbs and the wiring to the lamp units are all good....quick and easy. I also wouldn't bother checking fuses (I can't believe I just typed that :)). Both sides share the same fuse which kinda rules out a blown fuse.

The stalk switch would seem the most likely cause of this fault but it would be best to test it before parting with cash for a replacement.

Regards.
Scottie.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you guys, I forgot to mention I already tried the hazard lights and all but the right side turn on so there's nothing there. It is only the flashing right side turn signals that are not working everything else(brake lights headlights taillights etc.)are responding. Also not sure if this could have anything to do with it but when I first got the car the stereo didnt work so I replaced a blown fuse and it came on but again just like the turn signals there is no audio or any type of sound coming from the whole right side of the car. The fuse I replaced restored the headlamp, trunk light, door lights, and a dash light indicating a door is open.
 

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I forgot to mention I already tried the hazard lights and all but the right side turn on so there's nothing there.
That doesn't sound good. As Steampunk said, the turn signals on the GK are part of the BCM inside the dash fusebox. The fuseboxes are know for water ingress problems that can cause issues with various circuits. It's quite an expensive part to replace too.

What you can do to confirm the wiring to the lamps is good is link the output terminal on the fusebox to a 12V supply. If the lights come on that suggests it's the circuit inside the fusebox that's open circuit.

Front turn signal outputs are on connector CE terminals 5 (R/H) & 9 (L/H)
Rear outputs are on connector FF terminals 17 (R/H) & 13 (L/H)

 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I forgot to add I did not change to LEDs, everything is stock.

Alright so I began the process of removing everything off the BCM to take a look at what you posted. The problem is I'm still a bit of an amateur in the auto mechanics world but I'm working on it and already learned alot from starting this thread today (thank you guys alot).

Anyways upon removing the terminals, I noticed on the FF terminal connector there is a random purple/blue wire attached to a grey one in the connector that just dangles there and doesn't appear to belong anywhere.

On the CC terminal I looked for the wires in 5 and 9 and didn't see a wire going into 9 and I didn't know if that was normal or not. Also how do you mean for me to link the output terminal on the fusebox to a 12V supply? Again I'm still learning and electric and wiring is kind of a weakness for me right now. Ive attached pictures below.

I went out and bought a digital multimeter and so far I know how to check fuses, battery, and alternator with it. Oh and Oreillys ordered a turn signal switch for me that I will be able to pick up tomorrow in case you guys think it could be the cause and that its worth a try.
 

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Anyways upon removing the terminals, I noticed on the FF terminal connector there is a random purple/blue wire attached to a grey one in the connector that just dangles there and doesn't appear to belong anywhere.
From your photo the grey wire with the blue spliced into it is FF terminal 2 which is the reverse lamp circuit. I don't know why someone would have spliced into that at the fusebox. Do you have a stereo with a reverse camera or something?

bizzyvictor said:
On the CC terminal I looked for the wires in 5 and 9 and didn't see a wire going into 9
You mean connector CE, right? And look a little closer...that's not terminal 9 that's empty. It's terminal 6...the numbers are upside down :) (5th photo above)

bizzyvictor said:
Also how do you mean for me to link the output terminal on the fusebox to a 12V supply?
All you do is get a short length of wire and push one end into one of the turn signal terminals on the harness connector and the other end into the fusebox 12V supply wire (the thick cable on it's own that plugs into the front of the fusebox).

You need to be very careful when doing this. Make sure you identify the correct terminal numbers or you could short something out. That would not be a good time to confuse a 6 with a 9, so take your time and double check your numbers before connecting the 12V. If your not sure what your doing just stop, come back and we'll figure it out.

bizzyvictor said:
Oh and Oreillys ordered a turn signal switch for me that I will be able to pick up tomorrow
I'd leave the switch at the store for now. Once you buy it they probably wont take it back, so lets make sure you need it before going to collect it.
 

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Just another thought popped into my mind...I see you've bought a new multimeter. Does it have an current measurment feature with a fused socket (usually marked 10A)? If so you could use your multimeter rather than a wire to put the 12V into the turn signal wires. That will give you a little bit of protection if you were to make a mistake since the meter has a fuse.
 

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I forgot to add I did not change to LEDs, everything is stock.

Alright so I began the process of removing everything off the BCM to take a look at what you posted. The problem is I'm still a bit of an amateur in the auto mechanics world but I'm working on it and already learned alot from starting this thread today (thank you guys alot).

Anyways upon removing the terminals, I noticed on the FF terminal connector there is a random purple/blue wire attached to a grey one in the connector that just dangles there and doesn't appear to belong anywhere.

On the CC terminal I looked for the wires in 5 and 9 and didn't see a wire going into 9 and I didn't know if that was normal or not. Also how do you mean for me to link the output terminal on the fusebox to a 12V supply? Again I'm still learning and electric and wiring is kind of a weakness for me right now. Ive attached pictures below.

I went out and bought a digital multimeter and so far I know how to check fuses, battery, and alternator with it. Oh and Oreillys ordered a turn signal switch for me that I will be able to pick up tomorrow in case you guys think it could be the cause and that its worth a try.
What I'm wondering about is the yellow crayon on the fuse block. Was this car in a wreck, refurb'd or had the BCM brken down previously? You see those markings on a part coming from a junkyard ("wrecker" for Sparky...:) )
 

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Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. Like I said before, those things are a common failure item and I'm wondering if there has already been a junk yard replacement BCM fitted. I also notice what looks like some iffy paintwork around the door check strap in those pictures though, so maybe it's been accident damaged at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No back up cam that I'm aware of, the wire just sits there not connecting to anything. Oh and thanks for pointing out that it is a 6 lol. Yeah I feel better doing this the safe way, attached below is a picture of the multimeter I bought and its capabilities . If you could guide me through what to do with it and what to look for that would be great.
 

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No back up cam that I'm aware of, the wire just sits there not connecting to anything. Oh and thanks for pointing out that it is a 6 lol. Yeah I feel better doing this the safe way, attached below is a picture of the multimeter I bought and its capabilities . If you could guide me through what to do with it and what to look for that would be great.

You can draw 200mA (milliamps) through it the way it's plugged in now. Unfortunatley the other side (15A) says "unfused" so any back voltage would not blow a fuse and damage the circuit being tested. You need to pull ~4A, I believe (18Wx2/12V)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
All I know is that it came with a clean title and I spent the first week doing body work on the car. The front hood was dented in alittle bit and the bumper was cracked kinda bad. The previous owner mentioned to me that he thought the turn signal switch was bad and that he was selling as is. For 1,500 I thought it was worth it with a little work needing to be done.
 

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What you want is something like this:



With a 5 amp fuse. Then you can jumper from 12V to the turn signal bulbs and if anything goes awry the fuse will blow.
 

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All I know is that it came with a clean title and I spent the first week doing body work on the car. The front hood was dented in alittle bit and the bumper was cracked kinda bad. The previous owner mentioned to me that he thought the turn signal switch was bad and that he was selling as is. For 1,500 I thought it was worth it with a little work needing to be done.
I was already jealous enough without the pictures, thank you! :angry:

I would have picked up the "T" badges on eBay, myself. I saw a BEAUT of a Tibby in VT the other day...looked brand new, the "Arctic White" I think...sweet car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
lol so I guess these cars are pretty popular than. I've somehow only discovered them a couple weeks ago when this purchase was made. After all the minor and maintenance work done to it Ive reached the dreadful bcm. Since you guys told me about how common they go bad alot of research on google only backed that up. So I'm just preparing for the worse and browsing ebay for them. I hope it doesn't come down to it but if it does is there any programming involved in this or is it just plug in and go?

Car doesnt have any alarm system that Im aware of and no keyless remote or anything like that. Oh Im still kinda unclear on how to approach the bcm with the multimeter. Am I putting both positive and negative meter leads on the bcm pins or the wires in the connectors ?

Sorry this is my first multimeter and first time actually using one.
 

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lol so I guess these cars are pretty popular than. I've somehow only discovered them a couple weeks ago when this purchase was made. After all the minor and maintenance work done to it Ive reached the dreadful bcm. Since you guys told me about how common they go bad alot of research on google only backed that up. So I'm just preparing for the worse and browsing ebay for them. I hope it doesn't come down to it but if it does is there any programming involved in this or is it just plug in and go?

Car doesnt have any alarm system that Im aware of and no keyless remote or anything like that. Oh Im still kinda unclear on how to approach the bcm with the multimeter. Am I putting both positive and negative meter leads on the bcm pins or the wires in the connectors ?
You don't want to use your meter for what Sparks suggested. He was suggesting you run 12V to the pins in the connector to see if the bulbs lit. Your meter can't handle the current (about 3.5 amps or so) on the Fused sied, and don't want to do it unfused. I use a straight piece of wire, but I've been a tech for um...well...er, a LONG time, so I take my chances with educated guesses. Not wise for a beginner! :D That's why I put up the pic of the fuseholder. You can get them at almost any hardware store, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc. You cut the loop and then strip the ends, so you have a wire with a fuse in it. If it only lights up 1 bulb at a time then we're talking about 2 amps or less.

Wait till Sparks weighs in, but I believe you want to run 12V to the pins on the connectors he referred to. This will light up the bulbs in the front and rear...won't flash, just turns them on. Then we know the wiring is OK. So then we try to determine if it's the switch or the BCM. I believe this is what he was trying to do.

Now..since I don't know this car's wiring at all, what I would want to try to do is send a "signal" to the BCM to turn the flasher on. I believe this means grounding one pin with the key on and the plugs inserted into the BCM/Fuse box. Sparks would have to run that down for you. Then we could tell for sure if it's the BCM or the switch.

BTW, Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market will find parts in your area, or further since the BCM can be mailed fairly easily.
 

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There are roughly 50 of them in the US, from $40-150
 

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And as I'm thinking this through....right side not working...majority of the damage to the right front (where the bumper was cracked) might mean severed wire somewhere.

Did you say the Hazard switch did NOT light up the right side? It was a bit vague to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Correct, the hazard switch works just no flashing signals on the right side or flashing green arrow indicator int the dash, so basically just works as another left turn signal. great now I cant remember if the flashers actually activated the right side indicator on the dash but I know for a fact on the outside rear and front the signals did not work. For some reason I feel like the hazards might of had 2 green arrows on the dash. I went out to check but I just remembered that I left the neg terminal on the battery disconnected and the bcm in the state of the pictures posted for the night.

Thank you this makes alittle more sense to me now. Ill probably head to autozone first thing in the morning in search for the wire and fuse setup. Oh where can I get my 12 volts from and how? Ill just type down what Im picturing in my head that makes sense to me from everything Ive seen so far, I hope I make sense of this.

So basically Im removing the connector from the bcm so that I can test the signal wires themselves to make sure current is getting through with out any problems. By doing this I will use the car battery? Oh great I think Im lost again.. ahh ok so I will use straight piece of wire like you mentioned and attach one end into the connector pin and the other end im not quite sure yet but I know there is a 5amp fuse in between the wire and where its going.
 
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