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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve had the car 2 years now and was told there was a o2 problem so I just replaced it from rockauto. Few months later code case up again and ordered another and now the last new months have gotten the code.
I tested all fuses just to know. Then I used my meter and tested the electrical socket that the end of the o2 sensor goes into. The right hand side lights up the left does not. Idk if it should or not. Could that be an issue? And if so wth is that called. Other option is to buy a good brand not one from rockauto. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
 

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Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
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On your O2 sensor there will be two white wires. Those are the wires for the heater circuit.
The way I usually test the heater circuit is by connecting a 12V bulb across the terminals on the harness connector that align with the white wires on the sensor.
When you start the engine the light will either stay on or flash, depending on the temperature of the engine. If the bulb stays on let the engine run a while and it should start to flash.
If the light never flashes (either because it's constantly lit or not lit at all) that is an indication of a fault with the heater control circuit, meaning the sensor itself is probably OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As I can see the bottom 2 left n right are where the white wires go in. Right side gets a constant light left side gets nothing. Top left n right get nothing
 

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As I can see the bottom 2 left n right are where the white wires go in. Right side gets a constant light left side gets nothing. Top left n right get nothing
The right side will be the 12V heater power supply. The left side is a ground side switched PWM signal from the engine computer. Because the control signal is a ground, you need to connect the clip of your test light to a +12V power supply to test it. It's not necessary to use the O2 heater's 12V supply. You can just connect the clip of your test light to the positive post of the battery since that's easier in your case.

Connect your test light to the control terminal, clear the trouble code then start the engine and see if the light starts to flash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I did it and the left side now lit up top n bottom. I did what u said cleared the code started the engine and it blinked like 3 seconds and went solid light and the check engine light was back on. When the engine was off the bottom left (white wire) was off the top left was solid on. N bottom right just a faint light. So what am I looking at lol
Thank you! Ha this is nuts
 

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Your trouble code (the original one, anyway) relates to the O2 heater circuit, so your only interested in the terminals that connect to the two white wires on the sensor. The other two are for the sensor signal circuit and aren't relative to the trouble code your trying to diagnose.

From what you describe it sounds to me like the heater control circuit is working OK. The light flashed which tells you the wiring leading back to the engine PCM is good and the PCM has made an attempt to control the heater.

Have you tried measuring the resistance across the two white wires on the sensor? It should about 10 Ohms when the sensor is cool. But even if that checks out OK, the problem might be that the heater coil inside the sensor is breaking down when it gets hot. To me, it looks like the problem is the sensor so it might be a good idea to just replace it with a genuine Hyundai part rather than these unknown aftermarked parts you've been using. Cheap sensors are generally cheap for a reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok I’m gonna check the ohms. I can check that with my volt meter correct? Just turn to ohms and stick the points in those 2 slots? And I’ll order the right sensor. I honestly didn’t think this car would go this long lol
 

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Yes, with your mulimeter set to Ohms. Don't push the probes into the connector or you'll splay the terminals out. That'll cause a poor connection with the male terminals on the harness connector. Just touch the probes onto the terminals.
 
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