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The car won't crank at all... no dash lights, no door lights, even the auto-locks won't function. Since Dec 2017 I have replaced the battery, alternator (which was bad), ignition switch and yesterday the starter. Went to do some shopping and came out tried unlocking the doors and only one that I used the key in worked. Fortunately it did start and on the drive home noticed the dash light showing it in Drive was flickering. Got home and now back to the thing... no power at all. Hoping someone here can make a few suggestions. Help! Please! Oh and yes my son in law checked all the fuses. :frown:
 

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First start by cleaning the battery terminals and connections
You can't see the corrosion that causes high resistance
Then clean the grounding point for the battery
Usually it means taking the battery out and following the grounding cable to the chassis
Clean the ground and chassis.

It may sound like it won't work
But, some times it is the simple things
If it isn't then at least you got the system cleaned up

Next would be to check the park/neutral safety switch
Try putting the gear selector in neutral and starting it

Every once in a while it can be the ignition wire that goes to the starter solenoid
The terminal may be corroded or just falling off

Hope this helps
 

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Testing the starter system isn't difficult
And from some of the symptoms, no dash lights, no door lights,
It sounds like high resistance which prevent current from flowing
No current means no lights.

Battery was changed
Alternator, ignition switch, starter

Its corrosion.
Not visible.
Do the cleaning. Again!!!!
 

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Its corrosion.
Not visible.
Well, you suspect it might be corrosion. How do you know without doing any tests to confirm?

For all we know the battery might be dead. I'd certainly suggest at least checking that before pulling everything apart to clean grounds for a second time.
 

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Main Relay? Concur with checking EVERY ground. You could check the shifter wiggle and see if the Trans switch could be the issue. Sounds like a bad ground somewhere.
 

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Concur with checking EVERY ground.
EVERY ground? That's a lot of work. I hope Diane's son in law doesn't charge by the hour.

If only there was a quick way to check for a bad ground, or a bad power supply for that matter. Something easy, like a simple voltage measurement.
 

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Well, you suspect it might be corrosion. How do you know without doing any tests to confirm?

For all we know the battery might be dead. I'd certainly suggest at least checking that before pulling everything apart to clean grounds for a second time.
The test was replacing the battery, alternator, ignition switch, starter
And still having no head lights, no door lights
There is juice in the battery
It is just not getting to where it is needed
And I doubt that it was done right the first time
It may not be necessary to clean all electrical connections
Lets start with the battery and the battery grounding points
Lets establish working head lights, dash lights, door lights
The rest should come as a result

Then if there is still a crank problem then we'll address that
 

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avisitor said:
And I doubt that it was done right the first time
Well, that's a wee bit cheeky. Unless, of course, you know Diane's son in law and know he's not capable of cleaning a ground connection.

Personally, I don't know the guy so I'll give him the benefit of the doubt.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
He will do that again and is going to change the post connectors on the battery just in case. He agrees it is something simple, but just a pain in the rear to find.
 

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Well, you suspect it might be corrosion. How do you know without doing any tests to confirm?

For all we know the battery might be dead. I'd certainly suggest at least checking that before pulling everything apart to clean grounds for a second time.
The battery was bought in Dec. 2017 and he has checked it numerous times, it's fully charged.
 

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EVERY ground? That's a lot of work. I hope Diane's son in law doesn't charge by the hour.

If only there was a quick way to check for a bad ground, or a bad power supply for that matter. Something easy, like a simple voltage measurement.
LOL no he doesn't charge a cent, just wants my spaghetti sauce every now and then . :grin2:
 

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Well, that's a wee bit cheeky. Unless, of course, you know Diane's son in law and know he's not capable of cleaning a ground connection.

Personally, I don't know the guy so I'll give him the benefit of the doubt.
He rebuilt the engine in his car, so he has a fair bit of knowledge of what he is doing.:nerd:
 

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Hi Diane, welcome to the forum 00000732

Diane R said:
The battery was bought in Dec. 2017 and he has checked it numerous times, it's fully charged.
Well, that's a relief.

It's always best to ask the question though before sending folk off chasing their tail.

Diane R said:
LOL no he doesn't charge a cent, just wants my spaghetti sauce every now and then
That sounds like a decent trade.

Diane R said:
He rebuilt the engine in his car, so he has a fair bit of knowledge of what he is doing.
I'm sure he's well capable of cleaning up a few grounds then. I certainly wouldn't presume otherwise.
 

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I'm sure he's well capable of cleaning up a few grounds then. I certainly wouldn't presume otherwise.
Yeah, I assume he is capable.
Just that the results don't fit the actions done

Fuses were checked.
The car started before and now doesn't start
At one time it didn't start but then started
All sounds like high resistance in the circuits involved

I apologize if I sounded badly.
It is just that I have experience with this type of problem
Sorry.
 

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Yeah, I assume he is capable.
Just that the results don't fit the actions done.
Yeah, based on your guess that the problem is being caused by a poor ground.

But we don't know if that's what's causing the problem yet. And if the grounds were cleaned up properly, it seems unlikely.

Rather than go through the whole ground cleaning process again wouldn't it be better to take a few voltage measurements to try and figure where the battery voltage is disappearing to? It should only take 2 mins to confirm that the grounds are the problem...or not.

avisitor said:
I have experience with this type of problem
Believe it or not, I've had to deal with a few of these faults myself :smile:
 

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Rather than go through the whole ground cleaning process again wouldn't it be better to take a few voltage measurements to try and figure where the battery voltage is disappearing to? It should only take 2 mins to confirm that the grounds are the problem...or not.


Believe it or not, I've had to deal with a few of these faults myself :smile:
Could be grounds or could be terminals, connectors, relays, etc?
And probably doing a few voltage drop tests would find the problem quickly

Believe it or not??
You mean you're giving me a choice .... lol
:nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Believe it or not??
You mean you're giving me a choice .... lol
:nerd:[/QUOTE]

Quick question-could the problem be the starter relay?
 

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Quick question-could the problem be the starter relay?
Doubtful ...
The starter relay does not control the headlights or dash lights or door lights
So, if they don't work then it has to be resistance at the battery terminals or grounds or open circuit somewhere

If you need to ...
The starter relay can be tested.
Ground side switched.
Two terminals ( in socket) should have 12 volts when key is cranking
Terminals 85 and 86 should be control side (one is hot and the other is grounded by ECU)
Warning: Do not mess with the side that goes to the ECU, unless you know what you're doing
Terminals 30 and 87 should be load side, normally open (one side is hot and the other is the load)
 

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Doubtful ...
The starter relay does not control the headlights or dash lights or door lights
So, if they don't work then it has to be resistance at the battery terminals or grounds or open circuit somewhere
Oh well was worth a shot.
 
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