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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just purchased a 2002 manual elantra which has not been used since 2013 because of no start problem. I replaced the starter and now the engine starts and runs but the h/l beam headlights do not work, the a/c also doesn't work ,the radio and power windows also doesn't work. the park lights,horn do operate. I have checked all fuses and done a continuity check on the fusible link , replaced the starter relay also the power window relay and removed, disassembled the p/window control panel and cleaned all of the contacts. Can anybody give me any advise on how to rectify these problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The saga continues I have removed each fuse individually and carried out a continuity check on each and carried out a relay swap on each with no success. I cleaned the earth lead connections on both engine and body. I also checked for continuity on the pink lead from the base of the engine start relay to what appears to be a fusible link in the engine loom. I also removed the instrument panel surround to look for obvious indications of a fault. I would appreciate any other suggestions anybody could provide. Many thanks .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I also checked the alternator output at the battery which was 14.47volts throughout the rev. range. I also removed the lower cover of the engine bay fuse box looking for anything obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There is no indications of flood damage and I have just completed a thorough clean internally and externally from bumper to bumper.
 

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I have removed each fuse individually and carried out a continuity check on each
Why do people do that? It's much easier/quicker just to measure the voltage on each side of the fuse while it's still inserted on the fusebox. Measuring the voltage on each side of the fuse also tells you that the circuit is being supplied with voltage which the continuity test does not.

David Murray said:
carried out a relay swap on each with no success. I cleaned the earth lead connections on both engine and body. I also checked for continuity on the pink lead from the base of the engine start relay to what appears to be a fusible link in the engine loom. I also removed the instrument panel surround to look for obvious indications of a fault. I would appreciate any other suggestions anybody could provide. Many thanks .
Your diagnostic procedure sounds all a bit random. You need to focus on one circuit at a time, so lets take a look at the low beam headlamps first.

You've told us about pulling all the fuses and swapping relays and cleaning grounds, so I'm going to assume that you've also checked the headlamp bulbs and they're good?

According to the diagram I posted earlier there are two headlamp relays out on the engine bay fusebox. If I was diagnosing the problem, what I'd do is switch the ignition on, switch the low beam headlamps on, then remove the LOW headlamp relay from the engine bay fusebox. Now take your voltmeter and measure the voltage on each of the four terminals on the relay socket on the fusebox. You should have two terminals showing 12V and two showing 0V.

If the relay voltages are correct, I would carry out a relay bypass test next to see if that makes the low beam headlamps light up. All you do to bypass the relay is take a short link wire and use it to bridge the 30 & 87 terminals of the relay socket on the fusebox...see below. The result of the bypass test will tell you which relay circuit (the load circuit, or the control circuit) the fault is on.

Post back and let us know what you find then we can decide where to go next.

 

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You've got a myriad huge electrical deficiencies on a 16 year old Elantra that was parked for years because it had "starting issues". Sounds like another case of insufficient main grounds. Do yourself a BIG FAVOR and locate the cheesy insufficient main grounding cables from battery to body, from body to engine. I think in Elantra you find the battery cable bolted to the body under the fuse box under the bonnet. Those main ground cables are bolted to PAINT. So locate them, take them off, scrape off the paint, clean up the bolts, reattach. Can work like magic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I finally have had some success. I started the motor and then pulled the light relay there is only one fitted to this vehicle for both high and low then checked the voltages across all four terminals of the relay socket on terminal 30 I had 14.2v on terminal 87 0v on terminal 85 0v and on terminal 86 0v. One question though should terminal 87 be 0v as it should be going to earth. I also proceeded and put the jumper link in and everything started functioning lights , windows and a/c. I also tested the relay which had no continuity across the coil. Thank you all again for steering me in the right direction with this problem.
 

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I finally have had some success. I started the motor and then pulled the light relay there is only one fitted to this vehicle for both high and low then checked the voltages across all four terminals of the relay socket on terminal 30 I had 14.2v on terminal 87 0v on terminal 85 0v and on terminal 86 0v. One question though should terminal 87 be 0v as it should be going to earth. I also proceeded and put the jumper link in and everything started functioning lights , windows and a/c. I also tested the relay which had no continuity across the coil. Thank you all again for steering me in the right direction with this problem.
As far as I know, the relays on Hyundai are ground side switched
Which means that there should be two terminals that should be hot when functioning
With the jumper in, the lights works. Should mean the control side is not functioning.
Check again to see if there is power on control side
Then look up the schematics for where the lines go.

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have rechecked the socket and only have power to terminal 30 also I didn't mention that I also replaced both battery lead connectors this morning which is another piece of useless information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
elantra elec problem

I have just been rechecking the internal fuse panel for the other control supply and found fuse 20 (head lamp, drl, aqs sensor) which is 10 amp while not blown but not engaging the contact clips. I shall pull the fusebox down and open it up in the morning.
 

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I have just been rechecking the internal fuse panel for the other control supply and found fuse 20 (head lamp, drl, aqs sensor) which is 10 amp while not blown but not engaging the contact clips. I shall pull the fusebox down and open it up in the morning.
That's the source of most of your problems. Fuse 20 supplies power to the power window, headlamp and A/C relay coils (86 terminal, usually), so all those circuits wont work with that fuse open circuit....for whatever reason. This just highlights why continuity testing fuses isn't really a very good method of test.

Any further problems post back and we'll try to help.

Scott.
 
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