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I've had this car a few weeks when it lost power and would't start. It cranks but doesn't sound like its sparking.

A mobile mechanic came out and said the codes were the cam sensor and crank sensor.

I've had both replaced as well as the timing belt. Got it back from the garage today and only made it half a mile before it lost power again.

It was reading the same fault codes. He reset it and it started and idled for about 3 minutes before it died again. The codes came up as cam sensor, crank sensor and MAF sensor this time.

The mechanic said he wasn't sure what it was. Any ideas as to what it could be? I have noticed the battery is looking a bit worse for wear.
 

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Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
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Any ideas as to what it could be?
It might just be coincidence but the cam, crank & MAF sensors all share a common power supply.
That's what I would be taking a look at if I was diagnosing the problem.
 

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It might just be coincidence but the cam, crank & MAF sensors all share a common power supply.
That's what I would be taking a look at if I was diagnosing the problem.
I can't find a wiring diagram. Where abouts should I be checking?
 

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I would back probe my voltmeter into the cam or the crank sensor power supply wire, which ever one is most convenient.
The power supply wire should have 12~14V when the ignition is on. Monitor the voltage while the engine is running and see if the voltage drops when the engine quits.
 

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I would back probe my voltmeter into the cam or the crank sensor power supply wire, which ever one is most convenient.
The power supply wire should have 12~14V when the ignition is on. Monitor the voltage while the engine is running and see if the voltage drops when the engine quits.
What to do if the voltage doesn't drop?
What to do if the voltage does drop?
Is it a wiring issue?
Is it electronics?
 

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What to do if the voltage doesn't drop?
What to do if the voltage does drop?
Is it a wiring issue?
Is it electronics?
If you just sit back, relax and read the thread as it develops you might get the answers to all those questions.

 

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It would song like a broken wire connection or a corroded connection. I had a fault with my gas gauge where it would work sometimes. I ordered a new fuel pump thinking the sending unit was faulty but it wasn't. There are two sending unit in these vehicle. When I checked both it was fine it turned out to be a corroded wire on top of the tank cover in rubber and not the sending unit. This is to say that the cam crank or maf sensor are not at fault but a broken wire. Most of the time when trying to locate a broken or corroded connection you would have to shake the wire where you suspect the fault is while the vehicle is running and you could get lucky to find the fault. This has happened to me more than once in different vehicle and had been lucky to find the fault where other mechanics fail. Good luck hope this will help.
 

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I tried to take some readings but was only getting 0V before the engine died.
You must be connected to the wrong terminal, or your back probe isn't making contact with the terminal. There can't be 0V on the power supply terminal if the engine is running.
 
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