[jcmurp]

Hi everyone,
I just got a 2001 XG300L and was told that they took the car to hyundai and said it needed a throttle body replaced. I have noticed a couple of issues such as sometimes it revs to 2000 or so RPM's but can shut off the car and restart and it will usually idle right. Also sometimes it does not shift at the right RPM's and so therefore if riding down the road it will all the sudden (according to the previous owner) slow down to 20MPH. I have searched for the codes also (because the check engine,abs,TCS and airbag lights are on ) on the forum and some I can not find. If anyone has had these issues let me know and if or what you did to fix it. My codes are as follows
P0141
P1118
P1178
P1191
P1194

Any and all help or advise very much appreciated
Thanks so very much
James

 

[A_Null]

Not sure about all of that, but there is a TSB on P1178 w/ P1118... TSB 04-36-022

 

[jcmurp]

Have you got a pdf or a link to this TSB. Trying to find them on the web but they want you to pay for them

 

[A_Null]

If you don't tell anyone I found it on "another" forum...

http:// www. myhyundaiforums. com/TSB/xml/04-36-022.swf


Actually, Google found it, I just stol... umm... copied it.

[edit] Side note: This forum does not let one post the link above, hence the spaces.[/edit]

 

[jcmurp]

Thanks, pssst its our secret

anyone ever had the problems like mine before

 

[jcmurp]

Ok, So the hyundai dealer is saying it needs a new throttle body (not mechanical one) because it does sometimes slow down to about 20-30 mph. And because the codes it stored. (look at first entry) Has anyone had these symptoms and how did they fix it or am I faced with a new throttle body. Anything else I can do?
All help or ideas appreciated
James

 

[A_Null]

Here's what I can pull from the HMAService site...

P0141: Rear oxygen sensor heater circuit malfunction
Check heater resistance at the sensor.
Is it within specification? (A hot sensor should have greater than 30 ohms resistance).
- No: Replace sensor.
- Yes: Check and repair circuit.

P1191 & P1194: LIMP-HOME & TPS2 POSITION MALFUNCTION
TPS2 signal variation over 0.3V while idling.
• Check TPS ground wiring.
• Check for a stuck closed throttle.

P1118 & P1178: ETS MOTOR POWER -- OPEN
Open circuit detected in the circuit which supplies power to the ETS Motor.
• Check the ETS Relay for malfunction or poor electrical connection.
• Check the wiring related to supplying power to the ETS Module / Motor.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1) I am not sure where the O2 sensor(s) are, but evidently there is a detected o2 heater problem. This may or may not have any relation to the throttle positioning.

2) The other codes all pertain to the throttle positioning. There is a throttle position motor on one side of the throttle body, and a throttle position sensor on the other. The motor sets the throttle where it thinks it should be, and the sensor confirms that it succeeded. In this case, it looks to me like the motor is the part with a problem, which may be in the wiring to the motor.

3) If I am correct, the TP motor and sensor are not intended to be serviced alone and are not available from official channels, and Hyundai simply expects to replace the entire body if there is a problem on either side. I have also never had to work on the TP components or circuitry, so I cannot offer much more than that. If you can find the parts in the used/salvage market and can reasonably replace them, then you may not need to replace the entire TB, but I don't know. Besides, the trouble may be in the wiring or connectors to the motor.

 

[jcmurp]

Thank you very much. I thought the idea behind them replacing the whole unit was related to a just "replace it all"
I will definitly check this out. Thanks again A_null
James

 

[A_Null]

Actually, I think I'm confusing the TPS/TPM with another motor/sensor pair in the TB. I think that the TPS may be what the throttle cable (from the pedal) actually moves, and the motor then opens the throttle somewhere. The codes and descriptions are accurate, though, and straight from HMAService. Just my info may be off. My methods are good, but my memory is pretty crappy. I'm a computer guy - what do I know?

Check out hmaservice.com - everyone with a Hyundai needs an account there.

 

[jcmurp]

One note to add. Yesterday we found that the positive wires on the battery were not very secure. So we disconected the battery and redone the wires (allot tighter fit) when reconnecting the battery as soon as the key was turned back on and the car started all the same lights were on (check engine,air bag,abs and tcs) I am sure that the reason for the tcs or traction control light being on is because the ABS light is on. My question is could the battery connecton have caused problems and does the computer store the codes even without power. I know that most cars after the battery is disconected for a while "10 minutes" the codes are cleared. I would guess that this is not the case on this car as I had heard of something they call "stay alive" so how do you clear the codes

 

[sbr711]

To clarify,,,, XG and Santa Fe 3.5 throttle system is big pain in backside for all involved.

Throttle pedal pulls cable which operates the accell pedal position sensor (located at right strut tower)

APS then feeds the info another module, which in turn operates the throttle motor to open/close throttle plate (big round thing on bulkhead side of throttle body with wire harness attached.

On oposite side we have a Throttle Position Sensor to tell PCM what the throttle angle is.

Limp home will ocur if there is a malfunction in the throttle system, allowing for limited power to limp the car to safe spot.

We also can get Limp code for excessive dirty IAC where engine idles too slow and wants to, or will stall..

Be advised that new throttle body will run upward of $700+ I think it is.. dont see them, at least in 7 yr of time here.. same goes for throttle position sensor at throttle body... fella came and ordered TPS, come back and wanted it installed... I had suspicions.... I put it on like he asked, while I had GDS installed to view current data to set sensor,,, I sneaked into the DTC search and found he had APS codes... he was not happy that the part he bought and asked to be installed without our diagnosis up front, he did not want to pay scan and inspect, just install my part.

I do have a used throttle body... another tech at last dealer I worked gave it to me, says nothing wrong with it...

 

[jcmurp]

ok, So sbr711. What are you refering to when you say APS codes. Should I start with the throttle relay and a throttle body cleaning? And the car does not do this all the time. I have drove it about 40 miles and it has only done it once and that was only for a minute or so. The high idle that occured has happened once or twice when starting (2000 rpm) but is regular throttle body cleaner safe? I am trying to do this myself because of a lack of funds (yep unemployed and no more unemployment benefits) and what would you do the throttle body that you have for if I needed it

Any help appreciated
Thanks again
James

 

[A_Null]

APS = Accelerator Position Sensor.
You have set up a (free) account at www.hmaservice.com, right? If not, go there now and register. Use Internet Explorer, 'cause it does not like firefox. Then log in, and look under 'Shop'. Select your vehicle - XG/2001/3.0 and click down to Fuel System > MFI Control System > Accelerator Sensor > DESCRIPTION AND INSPECTION

 

[jcmurp]

Thanks, Did register there now.

 

[sbr711]

Couple pics for viewing pleasure -

 

[jcmurp]

Thanks sbr711
Keep them coming. I will keep updates

 

[Peter Kayrooz]

I live in Australia & have a Hyundai Grandeur XG 3LT V6 2002 model (US equivalent is Hyundai XG300).
Fault codes are P1118 (ETS motor fault) & P1178 (ETS motor battery voltage open). An intermittent fault.
The first code denotes general area of the fault & the second code denotes the specific fault.
So the specific fault is that the ETS-PCM computer is not receiving 12V on pin 2 with ignition on.
'Check engine' light remains on & car is in 'limp home mode' with very little power & poor performance.
I had purchased the Hyundai service manual online (ebook about $8) for the US model. Could not find any
manual for the Australian model. On page FLA-52 found the block diagram for the whole ETS system.
I am a retired electrical engineer so now it became easier for me to find the fault.
There are 2 computers behind the center console. PCM & ETS-PCM.
Pin 2 of the ETS-PCM should have 12V present when ignition is on.
In fault mode 12V was not present. This 12V is supplied from ETS 15A fuse (fuse box under dashboard)
via a relay (i will call this relay the ETS relay). The 15A fuse was OK but the 12V was only
intermittently being passed through the relay points. Relay is located near ignition switch on a
sub panel which has about 6 relays on it. ETS relay was at right bottom corner of sub panel.
Yellow wire feeds the 12V (which is always present even with ign. switch off) to the relay points.
White wire is the output wire from the relay points which feeds 12V to pin 2 of the ETS-PCM computer.
Measure if 12V is present at white wire when ign. switch is turned on (no need to start engine)
I only had the 12V present intermittently. So pulled out the ETS relay - tested contacts with
ohmmeter & found to be only making contact intermittently when relay lever depressed
- removed relay case by grinding away one corner of the case - cleaned the relay points with fine sandpaper.
replaced the relay case & taped with black insulating tape to keep out dust. Tested relay with ohmmeter & points
now OK. Fault is now cleared & car is operating normally.
Also had previously purchased on Ebay a Can OBD11 scanner for $15 which read the fault codes OK.
Hope this helps other people with similar problem.