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Discussion Starter #1
So wife driving along car just shuts down, pulls over, won't start. Towed home. (FIY 6 month ago replaced bad starter, so its new, so is battery, great power, headlines bright, and voltage, 12.6 volts(. I open door, dash door-ajar light comes on, turn KEY to ON position, no bulb check lights come-on, START position nothing also. Power locks and other things that work "independent" of key in ignition work. So Key Turn does nothing, and also died while-driving. Never happened before even intermittently. So ELectrical Ignition / RUN circuit seem most likely? ECM RElay? Ignition switch? only two, I can think of. "Jiggling key while turning", in ON or START position does nothing. Ideas??
 

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As with any electrical problem, I'd start by checking the fuses. And I'd be paying particular attention to the IGN fuselink (big square fuse) out on the engine bay fusebox. That's where the ignition switch gets it's power from.

Oh, and why did you start a thread about your Santa Fe on the FORUM RULES forum rather than the Santa Fe one?
 

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As with any electrical problem, I'd start by checking the fuses. And I'd be paying particular attention to the IGN fuselink (big square fuse) out on the engine bay fusebox. That's where the ignition switch gets it's power from.

Oh, and why did you start a thread about your Santa Fe on the FORUM RULES forum rather than the Santa Fe one?
Sound advice. I did the same as grcauto. Went straight for the ignition switch.
See, he mentioned that the headlights work and the open door and door ajar alert was working.
So assumed that there was power going to the fuse box and some of it was getting to the ignition switch
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As with any electrical problem, I'd start by checking the fuses. And I'd be paying particular attention to the IGN fuselink (big square fuse) out on the engine bay fusebox. That's where the ignition switch gets it's power from.

Oh, and why did you start a thread about your Santa Fe on the FORUM RULES forum rather than the Santa Fe one?
*** I Had some difficulty finding where to even start my 1st post. When I finally found a way, I just posted, but did not know it was to RULES. Can a moderator Move that?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
444194
444195

Sound advice. I did the same as grcauto. Went straight for the ignition switch.
See, he mentioned that the headlights work and the open door and door ajar alert was working.
So assumed that there was power going to the fuse box and some of it was getting to the ignition switch
So I've got the old switch out, getting new one tomorrow, notice door ajar and green glowing key surround light still come on even though switch is out, so they must not go through it, anyway, hope this will fix the problem ! Also bought a new ECU relay while I was at the parts place, the only relay in that fuse box I hadn't replaced.
 

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I thought you would check the ignition switch and its circuit before replacing the switch.
Hope it works. As Autospark said, would check power to the switch, fuses and such.
Well, good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Dang !replaced ignition switch,Still no power to cluster, no power to start circuit ( still glad I replaced it, so I can rule that out). Checked fuses in boxes near steering column, and engine bay.(any other fuse locations? Fusible links?) Now if I want to trace upstream, anyone know where the power to the cluster / ignition switch comes from? (Only other clue was wife said car "bucked" while driving, just before total shut down)
 

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still glad I replaced it, so I can rule that out
A simple voltage measurement could have ruled it out without spending any money, or even removing the switch.

bcsf2001 said:
anyone know where the power to the cluster / ignition switch comes from?
See post #2 above.
 

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Sorry, just don't remember ... think ...
The power for the instrument panel lighting should come from a fusible link
and a fuse in the engine bay fuse box. Also go through a relay.
And the multi-function switch controls the ground side switching.
Probably doesn't do you any good. Sorry.
Got to find that schematic.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A simple voltage measurement could have ruled it out without spending any money, or even removing the switch.

See post #2 above.
Well sure, but it is a 19 year old car, and a moving part used all day every day, $16 new, easy job, so still glad I replaced while in there. I was really hoping for comments that lead to a solution, but I see your point, trying to save me time and money, and appreciate that.
 

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You said the car won't start (I asume won;t crank over) and from what you said there is a loss of power to the instruments. If this is the case try jumping power to the starter solenoid and see if it cranks then. Process of elimination.
 

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I was really hoping for comments that lead to a solution
My comment will lead to a solution if you do the test. The first thing you want to do is replace that IGN fuselink out on the engine bay fusebox. Just swap it with the RAD FAN one initially to see if that makes any difference. If not, the next step is to check the power supply at the ignition switch harness connector. With the switch connected and the key in the off position back probe each terminal with your voltmeter/test light and you should have two wires with 12V. Switch the ignition on and all but one of the wires should have 12V. If you probe the one that didn't have power then turn the key to the crank position that one should then show 12V too. Let me know how that goes and we can decide what the next step should be.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok Just found a bad fuse link , the big [ ALT 120 ], is fried, that must be what my wife heard pop while driving. On our early visual checks it did not stand out, but just back on each link and fuse with test light and meter & found it. Now, trying to find replacements in town, and ordered some from online as back up. That big baby had to blow for a reason, anybody know any usual suspects that may cause that?
 

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Ok Just found a bad fuse link...On our early visual checks it did not stand out, but just back on each link and fuse with test light and meter & found it.
That's why us AUTOSPARKs don't do visual checks on fuses. We always use a voltmeter or (better) a test light. Apart from anything else it's a much quicker way to check them.

That big baby had to blow for a reason, anybody know any usual suspects that may cause that?
Connecting the leads the wrong way round when jump starting the engine is the prime suspect when the ALT fuse blows. But since yours seems to have blown while driving, a short circuit on the alternator main power supply would seem more likely in this case.

And I bet if you remove that IGN fuselink I was talking about earlier and probe the two terminals in it's socket on the fusebox with your voltmeter/test light you'll probably find there is no 12V supply to that fuse, which is why you have no ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I now have some new ALT 120 Fuses , but what would be a good order of operations to take next? Say, put the new fuse in, and reconnect the battery? Or do some sort of check on the alternator first, or disconnect etc.?
 

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I would definitely spend a bit of time checking the alternator main power cable for damage before replacing the fuse. And if you don't find a problem I wouldn't just reconnect the battery because if there is a dead short that is blowing a 120A fuse it could damage the battery post. I would touch the blade of an old screwdriver onto the battery post then touch the battery terminal onto the screwdriver. That way if there is a short circuit somewhere your only going to damage your old screwdriver rather than the battery post.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
with the battery negative disconnected, I replaced the 120 fuse. Then,with the door open so dome light would work, I the used the headlight bulb in series between the cable and the battery, and it lit up bright, but the 120 amp ALT did not blow. Then I put a 30 amp quick fuse in series with the cable and the battery, and 120 amp did not blow, so I closed door, connected cable to battery, 120 amp did not blow, opened door, dome light came on no blow. I tried all things that work with key off, horn, power locks, emerg flashers, and parking lights, all good no blo on 120 amp. Put key in and chime started, and door ajar indicator on dash was lit. Turned Key, no crank, no dash indicator bulb test, nothing. Pulled connector off IGN switch, and could not find +12V on any pin in connector, the IGN switch is not getting any power. Checked every fuse under hood, & under dash, with both test light and/or continuity tester, all good. removed and tested each relay, all good. Junction box under dash is getting +12V, but about 1/3 of the fuses there do not have +12 on either side, key on or off. Stumped.
 

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Did you remove the IGN fuselink and check that there is 12V on one of the terminals in the fuse socket? If there is no power there you'll not get power at the ignition switch.

Did you try swapping the the IGN fuselink with the RAD FAN one? If the IGN fuselink is blown you wont get power to the ignition switch. And it's not always obvious by looking through the little window that those fuselinks are blown.
 
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