[Jacquifb1]

Hello everyone - I am new to Hyundai ownership, and brand new to this site. I have a problem with a 2000 Hyundai XG30 that I bought a couple of months ago, and am hoping someone might be able to give me some advice, judging by your previous postings/replies. I bought the car cheap, with three fully disclosed faults.
1. The car seems to knock too loudly on the front suspension, when the car goes over road bumps/uneven surfaces, despite the factory 17" alloys and 45 profile tyres. This is annoying when the ride is otherwise so smooth.
2. Both front seats no longer heat up, which I think is probably not time or cost effective to remedy.
and,
3. The biggest problem is with the engine (as you probably guessed). The car is now almost undriveable, and has become in some respects dangerous. When I bought the car, it had a tickover/idle problem. If it hadn't been driven for 24 hours, you could start it and it would generally be fine, despite the low and slightly rough idle (500 rpm). BUT if you stopped the car at a petrol station, or at the shops, and then tried to start it again, the fun and games would start. The car idle starts to fluctuate between 300 and 1300 rpm, and then stalls completely. You cannot start the car and leave it in neutral or park, as the revs will just drop and it will stall. The only chance of keeping the car running is to immediately put it into drive or reverse, when the engine seems to resist stalling slightly better when it’s under load, although the idle is still low at about 500 rpm. Once on the move the car is better, although the engine still cuts power and jerks every few minutes or so. When braking to a stop the car now just stalls almost every time, and I can't get it to start again in neutral or park unless I give the accelerator a considerable amount of revs. Then you have to immediately engage drive and abruptly pull away. The more times I stop the car, or it stalls by itsellf, the harder it is to restart, and poorer it runs if I do manage to keep it running.

Looking online, suggestions seem to suggest problems with MAF sensor, AIT sensor, vacuum leaks, and faulty EGR valves. I know the previous owner changed the MAF sensor prior to me buying the car, but he admitted it didn't stop the revs/stalling issue, it just returned the MPG's back to the correct level.

I have spoken to various Hyundai garages, and they have never heard of an 'AIT' sensor.

I am vaguely aware of how to test for a vacuum leak (from viewing utube videos) but I don't think I will be able to keep the car ticking over at idle long enough for me to start spraying susbstances around the intake manifold.

From looking on utube, changing a faulty EGR valve looks like just replacing a hose, which obviously I could do.

Do anyone have any experience of the above, and is there any advice you could give in relation to it. I bought the car because I am hard up, and it was cheap. I can't afford to take it to Hyundai for them to mis-diagnose the problem and charge me a small fortune in the process.

Desperately hoping someone can help, and thanking you in anticipation

Kindest regards

Mark (Cruisers).

 

[jsinton]

Did you scan for trouble codes?

 

[Jacquifb1]

Hi - Thanks for the reply. I haven't had it linked up to a machine yet, but the previous owner said he did, and it apparently came back with no codes/issues.

 

[jsinton]

If it was my car, the first thing I would do is have a trouble code scan done again, just to make sure YOU know exactly what is going on there. MAF sensor, egr valve, vacuum leaks, etc should make codes. If again you found no codes, the next thing I would do is make sure you have fuel pressure, as a pressure problem wouldn't produce codes. You might have something as simple as a clogged fuel filter. What is an "AIT" sensor supposed to be?

The heated seats problem could be as simple as a blown fuse. You have to verify there is power going to the heaters.

The suspension noise could be the struts are shot, you need new ones. Hyundai has cheap OEM struts. No doubt the 45 profile tires make the ride hard too.

 

[Jacquifb1]

Hi - Thanks again, I will get the car booked in at my local Hyundai garage to see if any fault codes come up. The 'AIT' is apparently an Air Intake Sensor, not sure if this is normally known as something else. I have a dealer receipt from only six months from the previous owner that shows all filters were changed when it was serviced, including the fuel filter. I have just checked every (small) fuse in the engine bay, all were in the correct places, at the correct ampage, and none of them had blown, or were loose.

 

[MobMed]

1. Knocking while driving over bumps or uneven surfaces could be due to dead struts. Unfortunately, about the only thing struts will do is make noise, whereas if your vehicle had shocks it would be bouncing all over the place!

The struts are fairly easy to replace, but you have to have the proper tools (coil spring compressor). I went ahead a replaced them on my '04 XG with Monroe Sensa-Trac struts and H&R Sport Springs. The sport springs actually lowered the vehicle about 1.25" and it handles much better at higher speeds. Before, the vehicle would wander and drift all over the road.

Your's came with 17" rims! That's awesome...here in the States the standard tire size is 205/60-16 and wheel size is 16"x6.5".

2. I've seen replacement pads for the heated seats, but the place I thought had it (RockAuto.com) doesn't have it listed. You would have to remove the upholstery, which can be quite a chore.

3. I wouldn't think the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor would cause this serious of a problem. It may cause rough idle, but most likely the vehicle would be hard to start and you would get terrible gas mileage. Everyone...including car manufacturers have a different name for this sensor, but it's the same thing.

If it is a vacuum leak, you should be able to hear it when the vehicle is running, but again, most vacuum leaks will not cause this serious of a problem...they could...but it would be highly unlikely.

The MAF sensor would trip a code (your check engine light would come on), your vehicle would idle faster and your gas mileage would be terrible. This, however should not cause the car to stall since the idle in park/neutral is around 1,500 rpms and in reverse/drive it will reduce to about 1,000 rpms with a faulty MAF.

A clogged EGR valve will cause rough idle and valve knock, but shouldn't really cause the vehicle to die in most cases, but in extreme cases it can.

I would bet your problem is the evaporator purge valve which is located in the emissions canister at the rear of the drivers side of the vehicle. A faulty purge valve will cause sporadic idle and the vehicle will stall. Usually the vehicle cannot be driven, but yours may still be functioning to some degree. Usually the check engine light does not illuminate for this specific problem...which makes it difficult to diagnose. The likely cause of this problem is "topping off" when you get gasoline. The valve costs about $30, but a dealership would probably hit you up for $100 for labor and $50 for the part.

Hope this helps!