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I have TWO Elantras. One is a 2012 GLS Automatic with 23,000 Miles and the other is a 2013 Elantra GLS with 39,000 miles. Yes the newer one has more miles. One is mine and the other is my girlfriend's Elantra. After multiple AWFUL experiences with Glenbrook Hyundai Service department, we went to Wetzel in another city to buy her Elantra. Her Elantra has been fine, my Elantra has been and still is a disaster. It has many issues, which the dealership says doesn't exist, yet when I compare it to my girlfriend's Elantra, you can definitely notice a difference.

Ok, to start the problems, I test drove a 2012 Desert Bronze and wanted it. Next day I went back and it was sold so they located another one and "drove it in". My brand new car had 348 miles on it. I did all my paperwork first, mistake, and then drove away with the car. When I first started it I noticed it had a ticking sound to it. Upon driving it home I noticed it drives like a truck. I took it back to the dealership and told them "this drives NOTHING like the car I test drove". I dropped it off and they gave me a rental. They said all Elantras tick when they start, its normal. They also said it drove just fine. So I took it back home and figured it was me and that I just needed to get used to the car. But after a week I was convinced it was NOT at all like the smooth and quiet car I test drove. So I took it back twice again. I did notice that all of the Elantras on the lot had Kumho Hankook tires on them but since mine was driven in from another state I had Continental tires on my Elantra. I told them it must be the tires that make it drive terrible. I said since my car was only a week old and it was drove in due to their mistake to please just swap my tires with one from their lot. They said they'd do that for $475! That's how the beginning of our service department relationship began.

Next problem, in the morning it is LOUD when it starts. I remote start it and can hear it from the inside of my house. It ticks louds for a few seconds like a timing chain that is not lubricated. It has the whirl sound occasionally which i've read it the electric power steering? But it stays high idled for quite a long time! Next, when I back out of the driveway and put into drive, it goes in gear just fine but when it first shifts from first to second it shifts HARSHLY, throwing my head forward. The hard shift happens even if the car is fully warmed up, it happens every first shift in the morning. Now when my car is started later throughout the day it doesn't rev up so high and it doesn't tick as bad at startup. Occasionally when I'm sitting at a red light with a fully warmed up car, my idle still is over 1000 rpm, sometimes idling at 1500 rpm! Other times it will start to violently shake and dip down to a little under 500 rpm and almost die, but no engine light!

Now back to the tires that I said made my car drive like a truck, the Continental tires. Over the summer on the highway my Elantra started hydroplaning on the highway in the rain and when the first snow came this winter, my car was all over the place. I took my Elantra back to the Stealership. They said all 4 of my tires were bald at 23,000 miles with 19% tread left on them. They tried to blame it on me. Lack of rotation, yet I told them that I paid them always to rotate my tires. Then I was told my car MUST be out of alignment since I never had it aligned. I informed them it was a 2012 with 23,000 miles and the alignment was fine. I also reminded them that I complained about the tires from the first week and they told me it was now my problem. They told me they'd give me a discount on new tires IF and ONLY IF I paid $86.95 for a 4 wheel alignment. I took it to get a second opinion. I had my Elantra's alignment scanned and the alignment was fine. They also commented that all four of my tires were evenly worn showing that they had been rotated and it was not an alignment issue. I then took my car to Discount Tire and they said "We get these Elantras in here all the time at 20K with bald tires and they made a call to Continental to get me 50% off replacement tires and then told me to get a better tire/brand. I have 4 New Yokohamas and it still drives like a truck but is gripping good now at least.

NOW back to the recent issues at hand. I now notice a sound and feel a vibration when my car changes gears around 2500-2750 rpm. It's like an exhaust sound. I do not beat on my car. I bought it for the 40mpg (insert joke here) rating. About the time I started to hear and feel this vibration my gas mileage started going down. I was told it was all due to WINTER GRADE FUEL. So, lately I've been doing some observations. I've decided to swap cars off and on with my girlfriend. In the morning on a cold start her engine turns over a bit slower sounding, like it has a completely different starter. When it fires up, the tach doesn't shoot way up for a couple seconds to 3000 rpms like my car does and there is no timing chain ticking sound for those few seconds that mine ticks. To clarify, mine ticks really loud for the first few seconds and then steadily ticks all the way until it is warm. When accelerating in her car it is much quieter and does NOT make the noise or vibration at 2500-2750 rpm when shifting in the earlier gears. Tonight we both were running on fumes so we bought the SAME gas and same amount and both drive down the same highway for the same amount of time. Her car averaged 37.6MPG. My car 30.8MPG. I am getting 20mpg in the city!

Now, just a note, my car has had the oil changed only from the dealership and they claim they are using 5w30 durablend valvoline. I questioned that since I thought it was supposed to be 5w20? Her car has NOT been to my local dealership for an oil change there. My new car supposedly comes with a 20year/200,000 mile warranty if you do everything to it at the dealership. With my experiences I'm basically figuring that warranty is a joke since they screwed me over on my tires and say everything else is fine too on my car. Out of desperation I'm coming here to get some honest answers on all of these issues.

Last thing to note.....hers is grey inside and mine is tan. The Stealership claimed they scotchguarded the seats with something called Zurich Shield? If I take WATER, i'm not kidding, water and put it on the seat, it will cause a stain. My interior looks HORRIBLE on my Elantra and her's is fine. So, my problems in order......Engine Ticking, Idling problems, harsh cold shifting, hard tire wear, uncleanable seats.....all on a 23,000 mile car that I am stuck with. This is my 6th Hyundai and I'm about to pull my hair out on this one. If it were like my girlfriend's Elantra I'd be fine! But its not and I'm seriously thinking about selling it and getting an ugly Prius! Please help!! Thanks in advance!!
 

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Tried to read through your post. Some paragraphs would have helped.

I see you did an alignment, and they said it was fine. Don't believe them; take it to a specialty alignment shop that does rear solid axles and have them check it. Even if the rear is 'within spec,' have them perfect it. Don't do this at the dealer.
 

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"Drives like a truck" - So you have new tires but the car drives like a truck still. More details please...we need to understand what specifically you mean before we can throw ideas your way.
 

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Get another dealer to look at it. Elantras come with either Conti's or Hankooks. Tire wear is subjective. You maybe driving harder than you actually think. If you can reproduce the idle, video it. Some Elantras (including mine) have a harsh 1st morning shift. I attribute it to the SPlll fluid. Oil should be 5w-20. If your dealers not using it, find another. AS for seats, get a good leather cleaner like maguires or lexol.
 

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Bottom line, if you don't like the car, get something else. If you want the same model car, and you've been to the dealer enough times for the same problem in a certain time period, get a lawyer and use the lemon law.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry everyone. I did use paragraphs but the session timed out for me typing such a long message and when I did the cut and paste all the paragraphs were gone. This does this a lot in Windows 8.

On the tire issue, I did not let the dealer look at my alignment. I took it to an alignment shop which offered free scans. I have a printout saying that all 4 of my wheel are in alignment. The tire issue is resolved "for now" because I have new tires. The TIRE dealer said the factory Continental tires are junk and last only 20K miles despite having a 60K warranty. I was treated right by the tire dealer but yes it still drives bumpy and hits bumps and small pot holes very hard. To be fair my girlfriend's car also in my opinion doesn't do well on bumps either but hers seems more quiet than mine. I've also owned a 2001, 2003, 2007, and 2009 Elantra and their suspension was not this rough. I know it's not independent rear suspension and it is sportier suspension so this might be normal for the new models, I don't know that's why I'm asking.

I'm told on here that the dealer is using the wrong oil and the dealership is telling me to honor my warranty I have to use what they say, which I think is making me ruin my engine. I want to know why my engine sounds like crap and my girlfriend's car with more miles sounds fine. I want to know why she is getting a lot better MPG on the same test side by side. I want to know why my exhaust or engine makes a noise and vibration at around 2500-2750 rpm and hers does not. Finally, the seats that are stained just by getting water on them are not leather or cloth, they are nylon.

I would love to turn this car in as a lemon car simply for the ticking engine which probably has been using the wrong oil and the crappy MPG that it is getting but whenever I take it into the dealership they do not put down my complaints on paper so this prevents me from pursuing the lemon law.
 

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common man.....use any oil you wish to use!!!! I use only Mobil 1 full synthetic, in summer I use 5W50 and in winter 0W30 or/40 whatever I find...it is your choice not a dealer!

as it was mention above, if you MANY times (you can provide records) complain about same issues all times, you can try a lemon law...but chances that you will win is slick......because of your milage...If you like E, get a deal with your dealer and exchange it for a new one...more easy than go to court...but you will lose some $ for sure...

However what I think of is see things in easiest way, there is no perfect vehicle out there, even Roll Royce owners complain about their cars....but I know what do you say exactly cuz I had similar issues with brand new toyota, but I own it for 10 years and sold with 250K miles for $10K then,,,:D and now my sis in law had accident with our E, she fixed up everything, besides few dents, but because car was in accident, I want a new one,,,I just dont drive cars with bad karma....not my style...
 

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On the tire issue, I did not let the dealer look at my alignment. I took it to an alignment shop which offered free scans. I have a printout saying that all 4 of my wheel are in alignment. The tire issue is resolved "for now" because I have new tires. The TIRE dealer said the factory Continental tires are junk and last only 20K miles despite having a 60K warranty. I was treated right by the tire dealer but yes it still drives bumpy and hits bumps and small pot holes very hard. To be fair my girlfriend's car also in my opinion doesn't do well on bumps either but hers seems more quiet than mine. I've also owned a 2001, 2003, 2007, and 2009 Elantra and their suspension was not this rough. I know it's not independent rear suspension and it is sportier suspension so this might be normal for the new models, I don't know that's why I'm asking.
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Do you have 16 or 17" wheels on your car? Usually the Conti's will come on the 17's, kumho's on the 16's.

I'm told on here that the dealer is using the wrong oil and the dealership is telling me to honor my warranty I have to use what they say, which I think is making me ruin my engine. I want to know why my engine sounds like crap and my girlfriend's car with more miles sounds fine. I want to know why she is getting a lot better MPG on the same test side by side. I want to know why my exhaust or engine makes a noise and vibration at around 2500-2750 rpm and hers does not. Finally, the seats that are stained just by getting water on them are not leather or cloth, they are nylon.
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Dealer is full of it. Look in your owners manual and it will show recommended viscosities. As I said before, take to ANOTHER dealer.



I would love to turn this car in as a lemon car simply for the ticking engine which probably has been using the wrong oil and the crappy MPG that it is getting but whenever I take it into the dealership they do not put down my complaints on paper so this prevents me from pursuing the lemon law.
AS for your complaint's on paper, DEMAND it. Again, if they won't comply, then FIND ANOTHER DEALER. You obviously have had better luck with your GF's dealer, use hers.
 

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The KYB rear shock change out has been done by countless members here with everyone coming away very pleased...it's a cheap mod and will give you a noticeable improvement on the handling of the E.
 

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I was able to read part of the post above. My suggestions are

Get a good tire gauge and mini air compressor and inflate all tires to 32 psi as a baseline and drive a week. Next week try 34, then 36 etc.. I tested various pressures from 30 to the mid 40s to settle on 35 all around for the best feel. There is a considerable loss of mpg at very low tire pressures and a minimal gain at higher.

Put name brand synthetic oil in your car. 5W20 or 5W30 is fine or 0W in really cold weather. My vehicle seems to run better on 5W30 and I change it every 6 months or 7500 miles. DIY this oil change can be done for $30 or less.

On the exhaust noise do a visual inspection when changing oil and check for loose or damaged hardware.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Most of this is over my head but ...

5W20 oil is preferred, 5W30 is acceptable according to the owner's manual.

Yes and no to the previous poster - you don't have to run 5W30 b/c the dealer said so, but with the warranty (I'll get to that), he does.

But - 5W30 actually should quiet the engine down - it won't make the car rev to 3K RPM on startup, or cause the shift problems or cause the poor ride quality - I'm not sure what is causing those issues, but it is not the oil.

Lemon law varies by state, but often it is three times for the same issue within a certain period of time, and the dealer has to attempt to fix it. You can document for yourself that you took it to the dealer, but it's your word against their's if you don't get a written record.

My new car supposedly comes with a 20year/200,000 mile warranty if you do everything to it at the dealership. With my experiences I'm basically figuring that warranty is a joke since they screwed me over on my tires and say everything else is fine too on my car.
Pretty common with SOME Hyundai/Kia dealerships. A couple of points here:
  • The warranty is probably from the particular dealership, it is NOT the Kia Factory Warranty, and is probably only for the powertrain, not the bumper-to-bumper.
  • The warranty requires you to have all required maintenance done at THAT particular dealership. If you add up what you will spend on maintenance compared to doing your own oil changes, or going to an independent shop, and balance that against how much it will cost to repair the car beyond 10years/100K miles, it may not be worth it.
  • Again - most people don't keep their cars for 10-years, 100K miles. Those that do are unlikely to keep them much longer than that. My car is 12-years old and the paint is fading and the interior is showing wear. It drives great though, but the paint and wear would NOT be covered via a powertrain warranty anyway. I've spent maybe $500 on repairs since the warranty ran out - you'll spend more than that on maintenance before you ever get to use it.
  • The warranty also probably requires you to take it back to that dealership for warranty claims. If they can't locate a high RPM, rough shift, or poor driveability - are they the people you want rebuilding the transmission or changing a head gasket at 130,000 miles when you need that work done? (Even if it is free, there's the hassle of constantly returning to them to get it fixed correctly).
 

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I feel for the OP. It's not like he doesn't have a basis of comparison - he has two GLS' for crying out loud. Have the same engine so should drive very much alike. Also the engines should pretty much sound the same, the way Bigred describes it they are night and day - that aint right no matter how you look at it. And it sounds like the dealer is a big part of the equation - my suggestion is drive both cars to the dealership and ask them why your car is not like your GF's. If anything your GF's car has the more miles on it even though it's relatively newer.

And sorry you didn't get the Desert Bronze model that you originally wanted, I think that would have prevented all of this crap you've gone through with the 2012 GLS - I would be so upset with all that.
 

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my suggestion is drive both cars to the dealership and ask them why your car is not like your GF's. If anything your GF's car has the more miles on it even though it's relatively newer.
Probably better suggestion - take both cars to your GF's dealer and let them figure out what is wrong with yours.

As I understand it, that 20-yr/200K mile warranty probably says all MAINTENANCE has to be done at the selling dealer - it probably doesn't say all REPAIRS have to be (but check the fine print if it matters to you.)
 

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All new cars have issues no matter what the brand. I had a 2010 Porsche 911 that had issues. The windsheild washer wouldn't work after 900 miles, took 5 time taking it to the dealer before they finally fixed it. Perhaps your car was the last car built on a Friday. Don't mean to make light of your situation. Porsche charges $300/ oil change and my car had a overfill light on it twice. Sometimes the dealer is just has poor mechanics. I just bought my elantra and it will see some heavy duty, I'm planning to use only Mobil 1 in it. If possible try multiple dealers see if it rectifies the problem, all good things to you.
 

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A few observations from multiple test drives, and having ridden in a friend's 2012 Elantra GLS with PP (mine is 2013 Elantra GLS with PP).

1. Amount of road noise and harshness of ride depends on the wheels. I test drove one Elantra that somehow had steel wheels and it was LOUD and HARSH riding. The Elantra with Alloys are much quieter and smoother riding (but still too firm ...)

2. Location of plant that manufactured the Elantra makes a BIG difference. Hyundai has acknowledged QA issues, and has apologised ... as if that helps me!

My friend's 2012 Elantra was built in the Ulsan, Korea plant. The fit-and-finish, enginge performance/sound, and even sound-deadening is much better than my 2013, which was built at the Alabama plant.

3. I've also noticed that my car has trouble starting, or won't even start, if there is a substantial drop in normal temperatures. This morning the car struggled to start and sounded like it was going to stall; temps were around 33*, when it's normally in the 60s - 70s in Orlando.

Source for the QA issues:

This isn't the article I read originally; I cannot locate the original anymore as it appears to have been completely removed from public access.

http://www.globaltimes.cn/content/824137.shtml

So yes, this is likely my first and last Hyundai. Disappointing.
 

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2. Location of plant that manufactured the Elantra makes a BIG difference. Hyundai has acknowledged QA issues, and has apologised ... as if that helps me!

My friend's 2012 Elantra was built in the Ulsan, Korea plant. The fit-and-finish, enginge performance/sound, and even sound-deadening is much better than my 2013, which was built at the Alabama plant.
This is something I've been hesitant to comment about. Maybe it's my imagination, or just wishful thinking, but it seems like there are fewer problems with the GT model. As far as I know all N. American GTs are built in Korea. Of course there are far more regular Elantras, so this idea could also mean squat.

Geoff
 

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This is something I've been hesitant to comment about. Maybe it's my imagination, or just wishful thinking, but it seems like there are fewer problems with the GT model. As far as I know all N. American GTs are built in Korea. Of course there are far more regular Elantras, so this idea could also mean squat.

Geoff
Unless there has been a change yes, all Elantra GT (and I also believe the Coupe) are built in Korea.

The only Elantra that was guaranteed to be built in Korea was the sky blue, which was discontinued :(

Next time ... if I buy another Hyundai ... I'll only buy one if the sticker alongside the driver-side door frame shows "Made in Korea".
 
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