Visit local auto part store or walfart and buy a bottle of PEA based quality FI cleaner for the fuel tank.... Gumout Regane, Redline SI1, Amsoil PI, 3m, Chevron Techron Concentrate, RoyalPurple Max Atomizer, ...
And, pick up a can of any of the top end straw fed cleaners:
CRC Intake Valve Cleaner
Max-Blast Intake Valve Cleaner | Royal Purple
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/power-foam/
https://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray/
https://gumout.com/products/regane-direct-injection/
3M? Intake System Cleaner, 8.75oz, 08954 - 3M Auto
Wait until you're a couple days or a week or so away from an oil change. Run vehicle empty, visit top tier fuel station, add above bottle of fuel tank FI/topend cleaner, and refill tank with highest octane fuel(93 at the local BP for me). Might be good idea to pop hood at car wash and wash dirt/sand/dust away from the airbox intake hose area. Not enough airflow/vacuum to budge the tacky/sand dirt stuck around my air filter box.... so nothing really to worry about.
Read(follow) and adapt straw can product's directions for your purpose.
Locate air filter/intake tube connection:
Loosen tube screw and disconnect hose until straw fits:
Some spray cans won't feed too well upside down or sideways so drop the can in between air filter box and brake fluid reservoir.
Have a helper start engine and hold between 2000-2500rpm. Spray can in 1-10 second bursts until empty. Try not to stall engine. It'll stall long before hydraulic locking so hydrolock is not an issue. When can is empty, shut engine off and let sit for an hour. After waiting the hour, start car, idle car for 5-15 minutes, and then drive gently for 1st 20-30 minutes.
Why premium fuel.... these detergents, dispersants, PEA, amine type cleaners... are usually carried/diluted in an oil distillate base, which is high BTU and extremely low octane. It might ping the 1st few times you drive until all of it is purged. And, that straw-fed-cleaner solution will buildup/coat inside your intake manifold, air box tubing..... so, there will be plenty more solvent/drips/puddles/... to slowly remove from manifold/tubing and intercooler/turbo(on the 2.0t/1.6T). If it opens up airflow to the engine, might run a bit lean and too hot for comfort until ECM adapts. Be gentle for the 1st 1/2 hour of driving, <2500RPM, and no Italian tuneups, for engine to adapt and to allow remainder of any product to suck completely thru.
The same detergents/dispersants can be tough on motor oil and metals. After you run the fuel tank empty, change the oil and filter. Any blow-by or fuel dilution with the tank or straw based FI cleaners will be removed.
Repeat as needed... every 30k-60k miles as prevention.... rotating among competing products.
An ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure:
BTW, the can of straw fed cleaner was on sale for $10. Walmart has good fuel tank FI cleaners for <$15. And, it didn't take 10 minutes of my time to complete the spray can blasting. The other option is to find a Valvoline, Wynns, BG, or carbonclean shop and pay the $150-$200 for a tech to do it:
http://www.wynnsusa.com/product/gdi-kit/
http://easygdi.valvoline.com/
https://www.bgprod.com/blog/gdi-solved/
http://www.lifeautomotive.com/Retail/CS2step.asp
https://www.carboncleaningusa.com/the-carbon-cleaning
http://www.enginecarbonclean.com/how-it-works/
And, pick up a can of any of the top end straw fed cleaners:
CRC Intake Valve Cleaner
Max-Blast Intake Valve Cleaner | Royal Purple
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/power-foam/
https://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray/
https://gumout.com/products/regane-direct-injection/
3M? Intake System Cleaner, 8.75oz, 08954 - 3M Auto
Wait until you're a couple days or a week or so away from an oil change. Run vehicle empty, visit top tier fuel station, add above bottle of fuel tank FI/topend cleaner, and refill tank with highest octane fuel(93 at the local BP for me). Might be good idea to pop hood at car wash and wash dirt/sand/dust away from the airbox intake hose area. Not enough airflow/vacuum to budge the tacky/sand dirt stuck around my air filter box.... so nothing really to worry about.
Read(follow) and adapt straw can product's directions for your purpose.
Locate air filter/intake tube connection:
Loosen tube screw and disconnect hose until straw fits:
Some spray cans won't feed too well upside down or sideways so drop the can in between air filter box and brake fluid reservoir.
Have a helper start engine and hold between 2000-2500rpm. Spray can in 1-10 second bursts until empty. Try not to stall engine. It'll stall long before hydraulic locking so hydrolock is not an issue. When can is empty, shut engine off and let sit for an hour. After waiting the hour, start car, idle car for 5-15 minutes, and then drive gently for 1st 20-30 minutes.
Why premium fuel.... these detergents, dispersants, PEA, amine type cleaners... are usually carried/diluted in an oil distillate base, which is high BTU and extremely low octane. It might ping the 1st few times you drive until all of it is purged. And, that straw-fed-cleaner solution will buildup/coat inside your intake manifold, air box tubing..... so, there will be plenty more solvent/drips/puddles/... to slowly remove from manifold/tubing and intercooler/turbo(on the 2.0t/1.6T). If it opens up airflow to the engine, might run a bit lean and too hot for comfort until ECM adapts. Be gentle for the 1st 1/2 hour of driving, <2500RPM, and no Italian tuneups, for engine to adapt and to allow remainder of any product to suck completely thru.
The same detergents/dispersants can be tough on motor oil and metals. After you run the fuel tank empty, change the oil and filter. Any blow-by or fuel dilution with the tank or straw based FI cleaners will be removed.
Repeat as needed... every 30k-60k miles as prevention.... rotating among competing products.
An ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure:
BTW, the can of straw fed cleaner was on sale for $10. Walmart has good fuel tank FI cleaners for <$15. And, it didn't take 10 minutes of my time to complete the spray can blasting. The other option is to find a Valvoline, Wynns, BG, or carbonclean shop and pay the $150-$200 for a tech to do it:
http://www.wynnsusa.com/product/gdi-kit/
http://easygdi.valvoline.com/
https://www.bgprod.com/blog/gdi-solved/
http://www.lifeautomotive.com/Retail/CS2step.asp
https://www.carboncleaningusa.com/the-carbon-cleaning
http://www.enginecarbonclean.com/how-it-works/