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2.4GDI CRC IVD intake valve cleaning

70K views 79 replies 25 participants last post by  C4RN1 
#1 · (Edited)
Visit local auto part store or walfart and buy a bottle of PEA based quality FI cleaner for the fuel tank.... Gumout Regane, Redline SI1, Amsoil PI, 3m, Chevron Techron Concentrate, RoyalPurple Max Atomizer, ...

And, pick up a can of any of the top end straw fed cleaners:
CRC Intake Valve Cleaner
Max-Blast Intake Valve Cleaner | Royal Purple
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/power-foam/
https://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray/
https://gumout.com/products/regane-direct-injection/
3M? Intake System Cleaner, 8.75oz, 08954 - 3M Auto

Wait until you're a couple days or a week or so away from an oil change. Run vehicle empty, visit top tier fuel station, add above bottle of fuel tank FI/topend cleaner, and refill tank with highest octane fuel(93 at the local BP for me). Might be good idea to pop hood at car wash and wash dirt/sand/dust away from the airbox intake hose area. Not enough airflow/vacuum to budge the tacky/sand dirt stuck around my air filter box.... so nothing really to worry about.

Read(follow) and adapt straw can product's directions for your purpose.

Locate air filter/intake tube connection:



Loosen tube screw and disconnect hose until straw fits:







Some spray cans won't feed too well upside down or sideways so drop the can in between air filter box and brake fluid reservoir.



Have a helper start engine and hold between 2000-2500rpm. Spray can in 1-10 second bursts until empty. Try not to stall engine. It'll stall long before hydraulic locking so hydrolock is not an issue. When can is empty, shut engine off and let sit for an hour. After waiting the hour, start car, idle car for 5-15 minutes, and then drive gently for 1st 20-30 minutes.

Why premium fuel.... these detergents, dispersants, PEA, amine type cleaners... are usually carried/diluted in an oil distillate base, which is high BTU and extremely low octane. It might ping the 1st few times you drive until all of it is purged. And, that straw-fed-cleaner solution will buildup/coat inside your intake manifold, air box tubing..... so, there will be plenty more solvent/drips/puddles/... to slowly remove from manifold/tubing and intercooler/turbo(on the 2.0t/1.6T). If it opens up airflow to the engine, might run a bit lean and too hot for comfort until ECM adapts. Be gentle for the 1st 1/2 hour of driving, <2500RPM, and no Italian tuneups, for engine to adapt and to allow remainder of any product to suck completely thru.

The same detergents/dispersants can be tough on motor oil and metals. After you run the fuel tank empty, change the oil and filter. Any blow-by or fuel dilution with the tank or straw based FI cleaners will be removed.

Repeat as needed... every 30k-60k miles as prevention.... rotating among competing products.

An ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure:



BTW, the can of straw fed cleaner was on sale for $10. Walmart has good fuel tank FI cleaners for <$15. And, it didn't take 10 minutes of my time to complete the spray can blasting. The other option is to find a Valvoline, Wynns, BG, or carbonclean shop and pay the $150-$200 for a tech to do it:
http://www.wynnsusa.com/product/gdi-kit/
http://easygdi.valvoline.com/
https://www.bgprod.com/blog/gdi-solved/
http://www.lifeautomotive.com/Retail/CS2step.asp
https://www.carboncleaningusa.com/the-carbon-cleaning
http://www.enginecarbonclean.com/how-it-works/
 
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#2 ·
Cool, I am guessing those are not your valves in the last picture? At what mileage did you do this and can you comment on the results as in,did you notice any difference afterwards?
 
#4 ·
Engines starts instantly like years ago. Engine idles smoother. Since I drive like a little ol' lady on the way to church, can't comment on power. But, it seems to run smoother. This would be my 2nd dose in 47k miles. I'm pretty sure that I'll be doing it more often than needed(every 2 years). I'll just keep an eye on sales, rebates.... of the straw equipped spray cans and grab them as I need them..... 5 cars in the driveway and even the carb'd and PFI engines can benefit. CRC's revenue builder wants it done every 10k miles, RoyalPurple is yearly or 12k, Amsoil Powerfoam's interval is "as needed", and Seafoam Spray is 1-2 times a year. I'm thinking that 30k would be more than acceptable for most. I'll be using it about every 2yr/15k-20k, as my driving amount slowly increases over the next few years.

Dirty 80k valve picture is from this thread:
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/yf-20...-intake-manifold-r-r-valve-cleaning-pics.html




 
#9 ·
BTW, besides the CRC GDI spray seen in the pictures, when I filled by car up I used a bottle of Lucas Deep Clean, which is a mixture of Naptha/PEA. The $9 16-ounce bottle treats 30 gallons so I have a good strong dosage mixed in with my tank of 93 octane BP Invigorate. FYI, toptier fuel will have 2x-3x more detergents than what is required by EPA. Use TopTier fuel whenever affordable/available.

https://lucasoil.com/products/fuel-treatments/lucas-oil-deep-clean-fuel-system-cleaner
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lucas-Oil-Deep-Clean-Fuel-System-Cleaner-16-oz/16777817
https://www.mybpstation.com/faq
Licensed Brands | Top Tier Gas
 
#10 · (Edited)
The EGT 2.0L GDI has the MAP sensor mounted in the intake manifold before the 1 to 4 split. I had the engine held at 2500RPM and injected the spray at the throttle body. Tight seals, no vacuum leaks.


The engine went nuts. Small bursts spread apart by a couple of seconds, immediate CEL illuminated. Shut it down, let it soak, cleared the codes. Engine started back up, ran ragged for a few seconds, then smoothed out. I plan to check with a tech at the dealer and see where they inject the cleaner.


Okay, I will try this again. IE has deleted my last two attempts at editing.

Generally I have no problem finding what I need on Hyundai engines, but this 2.0L GDI has surprisingly little info. Turns out earlier information (from Hyundai) that stated MAP was integrated with IAT was wrong. As suspected, the MAP is the sensor in the intake as earlier suspected. Very little information on that intake manifold, have to really dig. Love the engine, just curious why the documentation is so sketchy.
 
#11 ·
Did CRC cleaning a couple of days ago, sprayed down the PCV hose.
C4RN1 provided some more details here
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/yf-20...bo-using-oil-110-000-miles-2.html#post5050337

CRC can instructions ask spraying into throttle body for normal usage and into pcv hose as "advanced". Not sure what they mean here, maybe selecting proper hose might be an issue?
They also advise to NOT spray sideways.

Copying my impressions:
On the highway the car had "pinging" several times during acceleration with some funny rattle noises somewhere in the intake/combustion, after 20 mins of driving at 2000-3000 rpm pinging and noises stopped, the car started to accelerate smoothly. Will continue observations, but I believe CRC definitely had a positive effect.

After 5 days, I would still say that the effect was positive, although I also did throttle body cleaning, which might have some effect too.

The pinging at some speeds on certain gear is not gone completely, I'm thinking of repeating the procedure again.
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Did my TB cleaning differently.

Removed air intake hose front throttle body .

Sprayed CRC TB cleaner directly on throttle body.

First wiped TB with clean rag into edges of TB round plate.

Dipped CRC cleaner into clean tooth brush,pushed TB plates with tooth brush and cleaned inside throttle body plate,lot of dirty carbon / grease was on tooth brush.

Repeated cleaning inside throttle body plate with 12 clean tooth brush,got lot of carbon on clean brush each time,discarded brush after 1 use.

Sprayed CRC TB cleaner on throttle body plates several times,used 1/2 can.

Ran the car after 1 hour,it pushed out some smoked carbon out of tail pipe with minor hesitation.

Car has been running much smoother with quicker acceleration. Improved mpg by @ least 5 mpg on highway, same route Toronto to Connecticut. 1000 mile return trip.

CRC TB cleaner was used @ 82800 kilometers on September 18 2016.

It was a previous rental bought @ 71214 kilometers on November 5th 2014.

Currently have 85900 kilometers.

Next TB cleaning to be done around 90000 kilometers.
 
#14 ·
I've used the crc intank cleaner twice and have gotten pinging both time does anyone know how harmful this is to the engine?
On the highway the car had "pinging" several times during acceleration with some funny rattle noises somewhere in the intake/combustion, after 20 mins of driving at 2000-3000 rpm pinging and noises stopped, the car started to accelerate smoothly. Will continue observations, but I believe CRC definitely had a positive effect....The pinging at some speeds on certain gear is not gone completely, I'm thinking of repeating the procedure again.
Pinging is very harmful. And, when it starts pinging/knocking/rattling, have the common sense to back off the throttle and avoid excessive gas pedal usage until it clears the hot spot carbon crud buildup and all the spray can cleaner fluid out of the engine. This is why I recommended running the tank empty, going to a toptier gas station, adding a bottle of PEA based FI cleaner, and then filling with the highest octane fuel available, and then go home and start the straw-fed spray can cleaning. I would then run the fuel tank empty and change the oil/filter.

This pinging/rattling is beyond the ECU programming's adaptability. Normally, timing would be cut and A/F enriched up to prevent it. So, the knock sensor hears and reports it, the ECM adapts but doesn't have enough capability range to stop it. And you wonder why various engines from several automakers' self destructed from LSPI? So, its up to owners, equipped with brains, to back off the throttle and keep RPM under the rattling point.

If rattling/pinging doesn't clear out after 30 minutes of normal gentle driving/cruising, whether on highway or city, or idling, something is wrong and you need to verify that you didn't disconnect any harnesses or hoses by accident. I would repeat the procedure and pay more attention to attention to detail and the method that I've stated and shown.

For those that used PCV or brake booster vacuum lines, trace them to see if the spray cleaning solution is capable of reaching all cylinders. I gave up on non-centralized vacuum sources years ago and start with carb, throttle body, or air filter tubing locations always to evenly clean all intake ports/valves/cylinders. If yours is a turbo, wouldn't you want to clean the turbo and intercooler too? What I am saying is to spray into the big hose that feeds all cyclinders equally. Remove the air filter & cover if that helps with your access to the hose.

Did my TB cleaning differently.
This thread is an intake valve deposits/IVD/intake port cleaning thread and I don't even care about the TB at all. You are doing something wrong if your have to regularly clean your TB. I don't think that I've ever had to clean or brush a throttle body. When engine shuts down, while cooling off, vapors will condense on the throttle body and other areas, and are usually caused by cheap fuels and oils, poor combustion, and excessive maintenance intervals. The real question you should ask, why is there anything building up on the TB? Also not that a dryer climate, without regular power of steam/rain cleaning, will have more buildup.

If after 2-3 times using CRC/SeafoamSpray/Powerfoam/MaxBlast... and if it still rattles, I'd pull the intake manifold off for an inspection. And, I would remove, inspect, clean, and gap the plugs, or replace them. If all looks good, time for a steam cleaning on the running engine. Simply go to DIY car wash, set pressure washer wand to rinse, have someone hold engine @2000rpm in park, with parking brake tight, and then pressure wash that factory cold/ram air inlet above the radiator. Spray that washer mist at the grille/area for 5 minutes or so. Don't be a tool and stick the wand into the inlet. Stand back 3-5' so that a good 'mist' is sucked into the engine. Around here, we just drive aggressively in the rain to keep 'er clean.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Berryman B12 Total Combustion System Cleaning Kit

Today was Berryman B12 Combusting Cleaning day:
https://www.berrymanproducts.com/pr...hemtool-total-combustion-system-cleaning-kit/

The above CC/IVD cleaner is a liquid and not a spray. The tube meters air into the line causing the cleaner to bubble. No worry about stalling or hydrolock/hydraulic-lock. Not sure where this vacuum line goes. So, I either blasted 1 cylinder really clean or the intake manifold distributed it among the 4 cylinders. I guess that I'll prefer "spray cans" into the TB or air filter tubing over a vacuum line source. I didn't use the brake booster source since there is a check valve and didn't want any solvent chems flushing it. The brake booster tee's into that intake tubing hose. So, it reaches the same manifold vacuum source.

Prior to next oil change, prep car by running it empty, refuel with your favorite FI cleaner and super/premium highest octane locally available gasoline. Let vehicle cool off completely(overnight). Disconnect vacuum hose at tubing between throttle body and air filter box. Connect B12 hose fitting to OE vacuum hose and start engine. Blip throttle from idle to 2k rpm until can is empty. Let vehicle sit/soak for a couple hours. Drive gently until you're sure all the cleaner has been cooked off and then change your oil&filter(within a couple days or when the fuel tank is empty).

Berryman IVD cleaning


Hyundai Sonata GDI


Berryman B12 2.4GDI IVD


berryman hest IVD 2.4GDI hyundai sonata
 
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#16 ·
Did you not just do a cleaning about a month ago? Did you notice anything different such as a smoother idle or better acceleration afterwards?
 
#19 ·
Car runs smoother, starts quicker if not instantly, and definitely has more pep and mpg.

If the cleaning removes 25-50% of the deposits, repeat as needed. I was happy with the previous results and wanted to see if there were more improvements available.

The Berryman fluid didnt cause any knocking detonation afterwards. It did have a pretty noticeable miss for the first 5 minutes of driving under light throttle, almost stalling at redlights and stop signs. Until I pull the intake manufold off, I won't know how well that vacuum source feeds the cylinders. There were some instants of engine light on the dash. Need to put codes to see if all or just one were misfiring.

I doubt that Hyundai engineers are slapping themselves in the forehead....more likely just jumping from the sinking ship.

The Berryman hose can be reused with other topend cleaners too.
 
#20 ·
I found this little trick from another forum about cleaning IVD without using CRC sprays or BG products. Just take a stick a dynamite (don't damage the mass airflow sensor) with a remote detonator button attached to the steering wheel, and run your Hyundai at 90 mph in 2nd gear for 5 minutes. Then (this part goes quick) shift into neutral momentarily and the slam into into 1st gear and simultaneously push the button. That's it no more deposits. Now remember you might get a CEL light or two and like the other products your little theta 2 engine might run a little rough. But these issues should clear up as soon as you pull over. Also remember like the other products Hyundai doesn't approve of this procedure but what do they know...
 
#21 ·
Feel free to test this on your vehicle and let us know how it works out.

And, many don't care for what Hyundai approves or doesn't. Obviously, their approval process has caused the issue.
 
#22 ·
According to CRC web site the Hyundai theta 2 GDI does not have a MAF sensor. They say it's okay to spray the cleaner into the intake.
So on my 2017 2.4 Sonata I could simply remove the air filter, vacuum out the moths and bugs and spray away...cleaning all 4 cylinders.

I noticed the PCV line goes pretty much directly into cylinder 1. I'm wondering if cylinder 1 is the dirtiest and the others are fairly clean.
 
#24 ·
Interesting you should mention this. I spoke with a long time, trusted Hyundai Platinum level tech just this week. He stated that very thing, that the PCV line will clean mostly just the first cylinder as that is where the draw path takes it. He had a cool little accessory that was a long tube with a stainless nozzle. It connected to the can of cleaner and allowed him to sit in the drivers seat and monitor throttle during the application process. He also said to make sure the area behind the vehicle was clear, because there would be a LOT of black soot coming out.

He also said that this is not a common service. They perform it when there are rough idle, stumble, hard to start issues with no CEL, and typically on engines with 40K miles on them. Says the valves will get back side buildup over time on cheap gas and city driving, mostly caused by the city driving part. Being a dealership, he says they use a two step process which is first a good cleaning of the throttle body, then the application of the valve treatment following a process similar to the CRC videos we have seen. He did make a point that the engine MUST be at full operating temperature for the process to work. Something about high heat on the valves promoting the absorption of the chemical into the deposits.

I wish each of you had a guy like Jeff (his name) available to you. He has been turning wrenches for near 40 years now and still takes regular factory classes and stays on top of things. I can ask him a question and get a clear specific answer along with where to get photos, details, background, etc.

Neat guy. There should be more like him.
 
#23 ·
deadrx7conv,
You made an interesting point in one of your comments. Driving aggressively in rain to clean out the air intake behind the grill.
I've read that some use a water vapor mist to clean the induction system and the valves. Wouldn't it be a laugh if all we had to do to keep our GDI engines clean was to drive behind a semi truck in a heavy rain for 10 miles? LOL
 
#25 ·
I finally got around to running a can of CRC GDI ivd cleaner through my 17 Sonata 2.4 engine.

I just follow the directions and everything went accordingly. Afterwards I drove the car about 10 miles and it made some odd rattling noises and blew some white smoke out the back but all that went away quickly. Then I drove the car about 50 miles on the freeway in sport mode and all seems fine.

I used the vacuum line that comes from the intake manifold, not the PCV line, that goes straight into the air box. That way it did not require much disassembly.

Since my car was running great anyway, it only has 15,000 miles, I did not notice any difference in performance or any other aspect. I'm doing this for preventive maintenance only.
At 10 bucks a pop for this can of cleaner, doing it every 15000 miles or so the cost is negligible and if the long-term results are positive then it's a bargain.

And that's my experience. No big deal at all.
 
#26 ·
Water injection would probably keep it clean. I've driven cars to 300k without every cleaning the TB, AFM/MAF..... and they were all spotless. Obviously, area weather climate will have much to do with rain-cleaning/steaming your engine clean. I guess the monthly highway commute in a downpour has kept my TB's clean.

I see the above $10 spray can as good preventive maintenance on ALL GDI engines(all makes/models).

Even the other automakers that claimed that they solved the problem with GDI IVD, have forums full of owners that state different.

Rattling noises are pinging. Just back of throttle and drive gently. It will clear up on its own. My CEL's cleared up after using the can of Berryman quickly on its own so I never plugged in my scanner to see the codes.

I just picked up another 'brand' to use. Since these products don't claim 100% cleaning, it is just simple preventive maintenance. Prevent the excessive buildup, reduce it some, and never reach the point of performance degradation, which could be bad MPG, poor running, reduced power, failed emissions.... I've seen plenty of cars fail emissions, with nothing wrong, and then passed with flying colors after the "carbonclean" system was applied. So, the IVD/CC cleaners have been around and working for over 20 years and these products are nothing new but now more DIY.



BTW, I am not a CRC fanboy and tried to list as many competitor-equivalent products so that you can use what you want.

My #3 attempt at keeping the IVD deposits under control will be the SeaFoam Spray.... one of the original IVD/intake/carb cleaning sprays. The Seafoam bottles could be used just like how I used the Berryman cleaner can earlier. Spray cans, IMHO, are easier and more foolproof than metering a liquid. I've used Seafoam for over 30 years.
https://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray/

$20 cans(IVD cleaner spray and PEA fuel additive) will do the same as ANY $100 quicklube or $200 dealer GDI service. Its your money/time.
 
#27 ·
#28 ·
vent pcv and breather to atmosphere and keep everything clean.

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#43 ·
vent pcv and breather to atmosphere and keep everything clean.
Some say that PCV and EGR are not the real cause of IVD. It's oil leaking thru the valve stem seals. Using higher viscosity such as 5w30 instead of 5w20 will help prevent IVD.

I've decided it's not worth worrying about. Unless the world economy collapses I'll be buying a new car every 3 to 5 years anyway.
 
#29 ·
I have a 2.0T and used CRC IVC again today, just a hair over 98K and got a good bit of black smoke rolling out of the car near the end of the can. After heatsoaking and running on the interstate for a bit the car has a bit more power and response. I don't know what's not to believe about CRC but I've used it 4 times now and every time it restores power and response. I have the Lap 3 catch can with the evo x pcv delete, the intake vacuum tube is plugged and set aside. The intake isn't sucking in oil vapors and yet the intake valves are still getting caked with carbon deposits.

Use CRC it works great and is worth the price.
 
#30 ·
why does everyone use catch cans on this setup


Venting both allows vapors to flow out 2 hoses all the time vs just 1 hose, allowing more to escape the valve cover and 0 to return through the intake/motor.

The oil will be contaminated regardless of the setup. The oil filter will filter out the most harmful things. Everything else will burn off/evaporate or will be suspended in the oil until time to change. No harm will come as long as you change oil when you're supposed to.2x flow means around 1/4 the crank case pressure to get blow by vapors out compared to just venting the breather only as some have setup.

Or 4x the pressure/vacuum to pull the same amount through the same size line in a vacuum setup.

Results from a VTA setup get even better with a proper fitting on the PCV side and another large line vented from an oil cap.....

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
#31 ·
Why does everyone use catch cans on the 2.0T? Hmmm

1. It's required by Lap 3 to run catch cans with the tune to ensure the octane isn't lowered by the oil vapors or the vapors that form in the intake line when it's cold outside.

2. I have state emissions, I could only imagine if they went to check and see these hoses being dumped to the ground.

3. It's a much better idea to have at least a low vacuum source pulling the oil vapors out rather than them being pushed out on their own. Though Lap 3 also recommends the outlet to be ran to ground to eliminate all the oil vapors from reentering the intake. Though with this motor I'm convinced you at least need a low vac source to pull the air through the filtering media in the can.

4. Well you can see, this is from 1828 miles in November. December's catch was a bit more (up to the label on the bottle).

Drink Car Vehicle Alcohol Liqueur


Before the Lap 3 3-port can I had dual Saikou Michi can's with a pcv delete. It caught about the same but the routing was complicated. I think the Lap 3 can flows a bit better.
 
#34 ·
Why does everyone use catch cans on the 2.0T? Hmmm

1. It's required by Lap 3 to run catch cans with the tune to ensure the octane isn't lowered by the oil vapors or the vapors that form in the intake line when it's cold outside.

2. I have state emissions, I could only imagine if they went to check and see these hoses being dumped to the ground.

3. It's a much better idea to have at least a low vacuum source pulling the oil vapors out rather than them being pushed out on their own. Though Lap 3 also recommends the outlet to be ran to ground to eliminate all the oil vapors from reentering the intake. Though with this motor I'm convinced you at least need a low vac source to pull the air through the filtering media in the can.

4. Well you can see, this is from 1828 miles in November. December's catch was a bit more (up to the label on the bottle).

View attachment 387089

Before the Lap 3 3-port can I had dual Saikou Michi can's with a pcv delete. It caught about the same but the routing was complicated. I think the Lap 3 can flows a bit better.
ah, sorry i didnt realize this was for 2.0L, i was speaking of 1.6L turbocharged engine, but either way a pan evac would be beneficial for optimal power, but not necessary.

idk who is looking under your car that often for you to be worried about emissions. but i live in california & have never experienced any type of emissions sitch. even with an aftermarket intake and exhaust. but im not worried about emissions, im interested in the aesthetics & prolonging life of my engine, especially with these little gdi's.

vapors still get through. id rather have none of this go back into my car. in fact, oil catch cans can cause issues due to pressure build up or someone just not properly feeding the lines correctly.
 
#32 ·
ah, sorry i didnt realize this was for 2.0L, i was speaking of 1.6L, but either way a pan evac would be beneficial for optimal power, but not necessary.

idk who is looking under your car that often for you to be worried about emissions. but i live in california & have never experienced any type of emissions sitch. even with an aftermarket intake and exhaust. but im not worried about emissions, im interested in the aesthetics & prolonging life of my engine, especially with these little gdi's.
vapors still get through. id rather have none of this go back into my car. in fact, oil catch cans can cause issues due to pressure build up or someone just not properly feeding the lines correctly.



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
#33 ·
to reduce carbon buildup mechanically

- Use high-quality baffled catch cans (with additional stainless media if viable) on BOTH the PCV and breather outlets OR VENTO BOTH TO ATMOSPHERE

-Apply CERMA engine treatment and turbo (nano) treatment

-Use a PAO-based (Group IV) or ester-based (Group V) synthetic oil - There are exceptions, such as Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, which is a Group III (natural gas) base oil

-Avoid using an extended service interval oil - longer intervals mean higher concentration of additives; use oils low in calcium-based (detergent) additives which are the worst offenders for producing LSPI events; high zinc additives require higher phosphorus content to neutralize the LSPI-inducing effects of zinc; high amounts of molybdenum additives are ok; new oils with more magnesium to replace or equal calcium as detergents are on the horizon

-Change your oil & filter every 3000-3500 miles - fuel dilution (fuel/oil mixture) from piston ring blowby is another significant contributor to LSPI events

-Use the highest octane fuel possible - 93 (AKI); optional - add E-85 to create a higher ethanol blend (further increases octane); no more than E-40 (~99 AKI)

-Use a periodic (every 3000 miles) fuel treatment if your fuel is not top-tier (i.e., containing additives) - Techroline, CERMA fuel treatment, Red Line fuel treatment, AMSOIL fuel treatment, etc.

To reiterate, avoid calcium-based (detergent) oil additives and only use PAO-based or ester-based oils with just enough zinc/phosphorus (anti-wear) and molybdenum (friction modifier) additives to get you to your next oil change with a positive total base number (TBN) value (get your oil tested by BlackStone or similar labs). If your TBN value drops to 0, LSPI event probability increases substantially.

Exhaust gas can also cause carbon deposits in the combustion chamber when GDI scavenging is done. This is why top tier fuels and routine fuel treatments are Hyundai-recommended. Increased ethanol content in fuel (however unpopular) will result in more thorough combustion, reduced exhaust emissions and less carbon deposits as a result. Ethanol also increases octane which lowers the chance of LSPI events.

Anti-LSPI oil recommendation: Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 (Group III stock, derived from natural gas, will be ILSAC GF-6-compliant)

Other oil recommendations:

RedLine 5W-40 or 5W-30 (Ester)Cerma 5W-40 or 5W-30 (PAO)Cerma X 5W-40 or 5W-30 (PAO)AMSOIL Signature 5W-30 (PAO)Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 or 5W-30 (Ester)AMSOIL Euro Formula Low-SAPS 5W-30 (non-PAO; they have mid- and high-SAPS formulas, but contribute more non-carbon deposits and wreck catalytic converters)Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 (non-PAO, designed for diesel engines, but low levels of calcium and very good test reports) - this oil is known to foam under race conditions, so avoid if you run your engine to redline for extended sessions.Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 (non-PAO) - can be used in a pinch and can be found in nearly all auto parts chains; do not run for more than 3000 miles.

2017 Hyundai Tucson Night Edition
2016 Hyundai Veloster Turbo DCT
2011 John Cooper Works Mini S
 
#40 ·
Cerma is a snake oil additive. Don't waste your money on it. Why dilute your oil with a diluent with no motor oil additives.

If its a turbo, use a 5w40. Greenie/mpg oil is detrimental to the life of your dishonest automaker's nightmare under the hood. Obviously, with the cold spell, 0w40 is another option.

GS Caltex wrote a paper and tested Hyundai GDI/MPFI with/without PCV. Removal made NO DIFFERENCE concerning IVD/CC deposit buildups. Don't waste your money on condensation catch cans. They have never been proven to do anything positive. Feel free to remove PCV if it makes you feel good.

LSPI isn't an issue after the automakers were made aware of it. Sad that billions spent in R&D and none of them saw it. Get your ECU updated/flashed if it has an issue. Silly foolish consensus junkie consumers still think the recommended 87 is great for a turbo engine.

Use quality synth oil. Don't worry about calcium, zinc, tbn, gtl, pao, esters.... it just hasn't been proven as a cause or cure yet for almost anything. And, most oil blenders are not honest curing their base oils or percentages. We are just riding their reputation.

Viscosity has shown to quench LSPI. Makes you wonder if thin oil that is being consumed is the cause. Blame the calcium TBN.
Clean oil quenches LSPI. So, don't be an extended oil change interval jockey or OE filter user. LSPI, when related to calcium, is caused by calcium/carbon particles that act like glow plugs. Funny how no-one is attacking fuel enrichment carbon, egr carbon, pcv carbon, GDI soot suspended by 5000 mile old oil carbon..... blame the calcium.... to the guillotine! Stupid mob rule.

ZDDP, motdc/moly, antioxidants.... have been shown to quench LSPI. Don't worry, the greenies want you using an additive free forever interval thin oil even if your engine self destructs.

If I get bored with the IVD spray can cleaners in this thread, I will dust off either my inverse oilers or old water injection kits and plop it on the Hyundai. Did everyone forget about water injection(simply because of good knock sensors)? The auto manufucturers definitely forgot and billions of R&D budgets couldn't even take care of LSPI, IVD deposits, fuel dilution...... until consumers popped engines.
 
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