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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Visit local auto part store or walfart and buy a bottle of PEA based quality FI cleaner for the fuel tank.... Gumout Regane, Redline SI1, Amsoil PI, 3m, Chevron Techron Concentrate, RoyalPurple Max Atomizer, ...

And, pick up a can of any of the top end straw fed cleaners:
CRC Intake Valve Cleaner
Max-Blast Intake Valve Cleaner | Royal Purple
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/power-foam/
https://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray/
https://gumout.com/products/regane-direct-injection/
3M? Intake System Cleaner, 8.75oz, 08954 - 3M Auto

Wait until you're a couple days or a week or so away from an oil change. Run vehicle empty, visit top tier fuel station, add above bottle of fuel tank FI/topend cleaner, and refill tank with highest octane fuel(93 at the local BP for me). Might be good idea to pop hood at car wash and wash dirt/sand/dust away from the airbox intake hose area. Not enough airflow/vacuum to budge the tacky/sand dirt stuck around my air filter box.... so nothing really to worry about.

Read(follow) and adapt straw can product's directions for your purpose.

Locate air filter/intake tube connection:



Loosen tube screw and disconnect hose until straw fits:







Some spray cans won't feed too well upside down or sideways so drop the can in between air filter box and brake fluid reservoir.



Have a helper start engine and hold between 2000-2500rpm. Spray can in 1-10 second bursts until empty. Try not to stall engine. It'll stall long before hydraulic locking so hydrolock is not an issue. When can is empty, shut engine off and let sit for an hour. After waiting the hour, start car, idle car for 5-15 minutes, and then drive gently for 1st 20-30 minutes.

Why premium fuel.... these detergents, dispersants, PEA, amine type cleaners... are usually carried/diluted in an oil distillate base, which is high BTU and extremely low octane. It might ping the 1st few times you drive until all of it is purged. And, that straw-fed-cleaner solution will buildup/coat inside your intake manifold, air box tubing..... so, there will be plenty more solvent/drips/puddles/... to slowly remove from manifold/tubing and intercooler/turbo(on the 2.0t/1.6T). If it opens up airflow to the engine, might run a bit lean and too hot for comfort until ECM adapts. Be gentle for the 1st 1/2 hour of driving, <2500RPM, and no Italian tuneups, for engine to adapt and to allow remainder of any product to suck completely thru.

The same detergents/dispersants can be tough on motor oil and metals. After you run the fuel tank empty, change the oil and filter. Any blow-by or fuel dilution with the tank or straw based FI cleaners will be removed.

Repeat as needed... every 30k-60k miles as prevention.... rotating among competing products.

An ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure:



BTW, the can of straw fed cleaner was on sale for $10. Walmart has good fuel tank FI cleaners for <$15. And, it didn't take 10 minutes of my time to complete the spray can blasting. The other option is to find a Valvoline, Wynns, BG, or carbonclean shop and pay the $150-$200 for a tech to do it:
http://www.wynnsusa.com/product/gdi-kit/
http://easygdi.valvoline.com/
https://www.bgprod.com/blog/gdi-solved/
http://www.lifeautomotive.com/Retail/CS2step.asp
https://www.carboncleaningusa.com/the-carbon-cleaning
http://www.enginecarbonclean.com/how-it-works/
 

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Cool, I am guessing those are not your valves in the last picture? At what mileage did you do this and can you comment on the results as in,did you notice any difference afterwards?
 

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deadrx7conv, based on where you are injecting the throttle body cleaner, the MAP sensor will also be cleaned. I believe this spray will harm the MAP sensor. I thought you need to spray after the MAP sensor (Example: directly into the throttle body).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Engines starts instantly like years ago. Engine idles smoother. Since I drive like a little ol' lady on the way to church, can't comment on power. But, it seems to run smoother. This would be my 2nd dose in 47k miles. I'm pretty sure that I'll be doing it more often than needed(every 2 years). I'll just keep an eye on sales, rebates.... of the straw equipped spray cans and grab them as I need them..... 5 cars in the driveway and even the carb'd and PFI engines can benefit. CRC's revenue builder wants it done every 10k miles, RoyalPurple is yearly or 12k, Amsoil Powerfoam's interval is "as needed", and Seafoam Spray is 1-2 times a year. I'm thinking that 30k would be more than acceptable for most. I'll be using it about every 2yr/15k-20k, as my driving amount slowly increases over the next few years.

Dirty 80k valve picture is from this thread:
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/yf-2011-sonata-i45/529281-catch-can-intake-manifold-r-r-valve-cleaning-pics.html


 

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deadrx7conv, based on where you are injecting the throttle body cleaner, the MAP sensor will also be cleaned. I believe this spray will harm the MAP sensor. I thought you need to spray after the MAP sensor (Example: directly into the throttle body).
I would definitely remove the air intake tube and spray passed the MAF sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
deadrx7conv, based on where you are injecting the throttle body cleaner, the MAP sensor will also be cleaned. I believe this spray will harm the MAP sensor. I thought you need to spray after the MAP sensor (Example: directly into the throttle body).
I quit worrying about sensors/seals/gaskets/... decades ago. Have cleaned enough MAP's, MAF/AFM's, TB's, carbs,... and used enough additives.. that I'm not worried about any of it. So, I just haven't seen the sensor failures fear that are overhyped on the internet.
 

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Tried doing this on my '14 EGT with the 2.0L GFI engine and threw every MAP code in the book. Engine was not happy at all. Cleared the codes, got her running again, and then blasted it down the toll road. Engine runs much smoother now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I would definitely remove the air intake tube and spray passed the MAF sensor.
Most sensor failures that I've seen were internal and not external. And, the external sensor failures that I've seen were caused by crud buildup or damage/breakage, deposits being similar to what we are seeing on the throttle body, in the catch cans that some install, and similar to the IVD/intake ports .... oil/gas vapors that are lingering around condensing on components during engine cool down. I'm guessing that my intake air temp and MAP are now spotless/clean and working more accurately as intended now.


Tried doing this on my '14 EGT with the 2.0L GFI engine and threw every MAP code in the book. Engine was not happy at all. Cleared the codes, got her running again, and then blasted it down the toll road. Engine runs much smoother now.
I did not get any codes at all. I would expect this on MAF equipped vehicles since a liquid or cold vapor solution could throw off the MAF sensor reading/accuracy and cause all kinds of sensor output issues, which should clear once the solution is gone. Shouldn't be any issue with MAP equipped engine unless you're not at enough RPM and drowned the MAP or IAT sensors. Sounds like you pulled something off causing a vacuum leak. I disconnected and tee'd in at the air filter to avoid having to deal with this type of vacuum leak issue. Without the 2nd person and engine between 2000-2500 rpm, not sure if airflow is enough to be adequate and might've caused your problem with puddling. I sprayed about a second of the new CRC can into the air to see how much comes out and it wasn't too excessive and was well misted like hairspray, unlike some of the other dripping liquid/foam stuff that doesn't seem to 'atomize or spread' all too well. I wouldn't blindly blast down the highway until all the solution is gone. Don't want to choke it up with cleaner that condensed or built up anywhere, like in the accordion tubing or intake resonators or elsewhere.

The other reason why I used the air filter box location is that I wanted the solution to spread out evenly across the 4 cylinders. My previous experiences tapping vacuum sources all seemed to cater to 1 or 2 cylinders. It would be best to try to clean all cylinders and not just the 1 or 2 that are closest to your vacuum point of spraying.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
BTW, besides the CRC GDI spray seen in the pictures, when I filled by car up I used a bottle of Lucas Deep Clean, which is a mixture of Naptha/PEA. The $9 16-ounce bottle treats 30 gallons so I have a good strong dosage mixed in with my tank of 93 octane BP Invigorate. FYI, toptier fuel will have 2x-3x more detergents than what is required by EPA. Use TopTier fuel whenever affordable/available.

https://lucasoil.com/products/fuel-treatments/lucas-oil-deep-clean-fuel-system-cleaner
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lucas-Oil-Deep-Clean-Fuel-System-Cleaner-16-oz/16777817
https://www.mybpstation.com/faq
Licensed Brands | Top Tier Gas
 

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The EGT 2.0L GDI has the MAP sensor mounted in the intake manifold before the 1 to 4 split. I had the engine held at 2500RPM and injected the spray at the throttle body. Tight seals, no vacuum leaks.


The engine went nuts. Small bursts spread apart by a couple of seconds, immediate CEL illuminated. Shut it down, let it soak, cleared the codes. Engine started back up, ran ragged for a few seconds, then smoothed out. I plan to check with a tech at the dealer and see where they inject the cleaner.


Okay, I will try this again. IE has deleted my last two attempts at editing.

Generally I have no problem finding what I need on Hyundai engines, but this 2.0L GDI has surprisingly little info. Turns out earlier information (from Hyundai) that stated MAP was integrated with IAT was wrong. As suspected, the MAP is the sensor in the intake as earlier suspected. Very little information on that intake manifold, have to really dig. Love the engine, just curious why the documentation is so sketchy.
 

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Did CRC cleaning a couple of days ago, sprayed down the PCV hose.
C4RN1 provided some more details here
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/yf-2011-sonata-i45/555553-2012-sonata-2-0-turbo-using-oil-110-000-miles-2.html#post5050337

CRC can instructions ask spraying into throttle body for normal usage and into pcv hose as "advanced". Not sure what they mean here, maybe selecting proper hose might be an issue?
They also advise to NOT spray sideways.

Copying my impressions:
On the highway the car had "pinging" several times during acceleration with some funny rattle noises somewhere in the intake/combustion, after 20 mins of driving at 2000-3000 rpm pinging and noises stopped, the car started to accelerate smoothly. Will continue observations, but I believe CRC definitely had a positive effect.

After 5 days, I would still say that the effect was positive, although I also did throttle body cleaning, which might have some effect too.

The pinging at some speeds on certain gear is not gone completely, I'm thinking of repeating the procedure again.
 

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Did my TB cleaning differently.

Removed air intake hose front throttle body .

Sprayed CRC TB cleaner directly on throttle body.

First wiped TB with clean rag into edges of TB round plate.

Dipped CRC cleaner into clean tooth brush,pushed TB plates with tooth brush and cleaned inside throttle body plate,lot of dirty carbon / grease was on tooth brush.

Repeated cleaning inside throttle body plate with 12 clean tooth brush,got lot of carbon on clean brush each time,discarded brush after 1 use.

Sprayed CRC TB cleaner on throttle body plates several times,used 1/2 can.

Ran the car after 1 hour,it pushed out some smoked carbon out of tail pipe with minor hesitation.

Car has been running much smoother with quicker acceleration. Improved mpg by @ least 5 mpg on highway, same route Toronto to Connecticut. 1000 mile return trip.

CRC TB cleaner was used @ 82800 kilometers on September 18 2016.

It was a previous rental bought @ 71214 kilometers on November 5th 2014.

Currently have 85900 kilometers.

Next TB cleaning to be done around 90000 kilometers.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've used the crc intank cleaner twice and have gotten pinging both time does anyone know how harmful this is to the engine?
On the highway the car had "pinging" several times during acceleration with some funny rattle noises somewhere in the intake/combustion, after 20 mins of driving at 2000-3000 rpm pinging and noises stopped, the car started to accelerate smoothly. Will continue observations, but I believe CRC definitely had a positive effect....The pinging at some speeds on certain gear is not gone completely, I'm thinking of repeating the procedure again.
Pinging is very harmful. And, when it starts pinging/knocking/rattling, have the common sense to back off the throttle and avoid excessive gas pedal usage until it clears the hot spot carbon crud buildup and all the spray can cleaner fluid out of the engine. This is why I recommended running the tank empty, going to a toptier gas station, adding a bottle of PEA based FI cleaner, and then filling with the highest octane fuel available, and then go home and start the straw-fed spray can cleaning. I would then run the fuel tank empty and change the oil/filter.

This pinging/rattling is beyond the ECU programming's adaptability. Normally, timing would be cut and A/F enriched up to prevent it. So, the knock sensor hears and reports it, the ECM adapts but doesn't have enough capability range to stop it. And you wonder why various engines from several automakers' self destructed from LSPI? So, its up to owners, equipped with brains, to back off the throttle and keep RPM under the rattling point.

If rattling/pinging doesn't clear out after 30 minutes of normal gentle driving/cruising, whether on highway or city, or idling, something is wrong and you need to verify that you didn't disconnect any harnesses or hoses by accident. I would repeat the procedure and pay more attention to attention to detail and the method that I've stated and shown.

For those that used PCV or brake booster vacuum lines, trace them to see if the spray cleaning solution is capable of reaching all cylinders. I gave up on non-centralized vacuum sources years ago and start with carb, throttle body, or air filter tubing locations always to evenly clean all intake ports/valves/cylinders. If yours is a turbo, wouldn't you want to clean the turbo and intercooler too? What I am saying is to spray into the big hose that feeds all cyclinders equally. Remove the air filter & cover if that helps with your access to the hose.

Did my TB cleaning differently.
This thread is an intake valve deposits/IVD/intake port cleaning thread and I don't even care about the TB at all. You are doing something wrong if your have to regularly clean your TB. I don't think that I've ever had to clean or brush a throttle body. When engine shuts down, while cooling off, vapors will condense on the throttle body and other areas, and are usually caused by cheap fuels and oils, poor combustion, and excessive maintenance intervals. The real question you should ask, why is there anything building up on the TB? Also not that a dryer climate, without regular power of steam/rain cleaning, will have more buildup.

If after 2-3 times using CRC/SeafoamSpray/Powerfoam/MaxBlast... and if it still rattles, I'd pull the intake manifold off for an inspection. And, I would remove, inspect, clean, and gap the plugs, or replace them. If all looks good, time for a steam cleaning on the running engine. Simply go to DIY car wash, set pressure washer wand to rinse, have someone hold engine @2000rpm in park, with parking brake tight, and then pressure wash that factory cold/ram air inlet above the radiator. Spray that washer mist at the grille/area for 5 minutes or so. Don't be a tool and stick the wand into the inlet. Stand back 3-5' so that a good 'mist' is sucked into the engine. Around here, we just drive aggressively in the rain to keep 'er clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Berryman B12 Total Combustion System Cleaning Kit

Today was Berryman B12 Combusting Cleaning day:
https://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/maintenance/b-12-chemtool-total-combustion-system-cleaning-kit/

The above CC/IVD cleaner is a liquid and not a spray. The tube meters air into the line causing the cleaner to bubble. No worry about stalling or hydrolock/hydraulic-lock. Not sure where this vacuum line goes. So, I either blasted 1 cylinder really clean or the intake manifold distributed it among the 4 cylinders. I guess that I'll prefer "spray cans" into the TB or air filter tubing over a vacuum line source. I didn't use the brake booster source since there is a check valve and didn't want any solvent chems flushing it. The brake booster tee's into that intake tubing hose. So, it reaches the same manifold vacuum source.

Prior to next oil change, prep car by running it empty, refuel with your favorite FI cleaner and super/premium highest octane locally available gasoline. Let vehicle cool off completely(overnight). Disconnect vacuum hose at tubing between throttle body and air filter box. Connect B12 hose fitting to OE vacuum hose and start engine. Blip throttle from idle to 2k rpm until can is empty. Let vehicle sit/soak for a couple hours. Drive gently until you're sure all the cleaner has been cooked off and then change your oil&filter(within a couple days or when the fuel tank is empty).

Berryman IVD cleaning


Hyundai Sonata GDI


Berryman B12 2.4GDI IVD


berryman hest IVD 2.4GDI hyundai sonata
 
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Did you not just do a cleaning about a month ago? Did you notice anything different such as a smoother idle or better acceleration afterwards?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Car runs smoother, starts quicker if not instantly, and definitely has more pep and mpg.

If the cleaning removes 25-50% of the deposits, repeat as needed. I was happy with the previous results and wanted to see if there were more improvements available.

The Berryman fluid didnt cause any knocking detonation afterwards. It did have a pretty noticeable miss for the first 5 minutes of driving under light throttle, almost stalling at redlights and stop signs. Until I pull the intake manufold off, I won't know how well that vacuum source feeds the cylinders. There were some instants of engine light on the dash. Need to put codes to see if all or just one were misfiring.

I doubt that Hyundai engineers are slapping themselves in the forehead....more likely just jumping from the sinking ship.

The Berryman hose can be reused with other topend cleaners too.
 

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I found this little trick from another forum about cleaning IVD without using CRC sprays or BG products. Just take a stick a dynamite (don't damage the mass airflow sensor) with a remote detonator button attached to the steering wheel, and run your Hyundai at 90 mph in 2nd gear for 5 minutes. Then (this part goes quick) shift into neutral momentarily and the slam into into 1st gear and simultaneously push the button. That's it no more deposits. Now remember you might get a CEL light or two and like the other products your little theta 2 engine might run a little rough. But these issues should clear up as soon as you pull over. Also remember like the other products Hyundai doesn't approve of this procedure but what do they know...
 
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