Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Vehicle is my wife's 2015 Santa Fe Sport AWD w/ 2.4L engine. She bought it new and it has no aftermarket modifications or accessories. The car has been very reliable up until now.

Two days ago when she tried to start it to come home from work, just a few clicks from the starter solenoid. I thought perhaps she accidentally left a light on, but she assured me she didn't. I came and jumped the car and she drove it home. I put a smart charger on the battery (in the car) and left it to charge overnight. The next morning (yesterday), her car still wouldn't start. I jumped it again so she could get to work. When she arrived at work, the battery was so dead that she couldn't even use the remote to lock the car. Obviously, the battery was totally shot.

Meanwhile, I bought a new battery and went to her work to replace it. Before putting the new battery in, I wanted to do some diagnostic testing to see if there was any excessive parasitic drain that caused the battery to die. I disconnected the negative battery cable and connected an ammeter between the cable and the battery terminal. With everything off in the car and all doors closed, the ammeter showed a current of 1,000 mA (1 A)!

A quick internet search revealed that the Hyundai's audio system sometimes fails and causes a large parasitic drain. So I pulled the "Multimedia" fuse and the drain dropped to ~400 mA, which is still way too high as far as I'm concerned. I then pulled the "Memory 2" fuse and the drain dropped to ~150 mA, which still seems too much but is at least reasonable.

It seems unlikely that two electrical circuits failed at the same time. I suppose some component on the "Memory 2" circuit could have failed first some time ago, but I'm not sure the battery could sustain a 400 mA drain for over 24 hours and still start the engine considering that the 1,000 mA drain killed the battery permanently in 8 hours.

Right now, I have the fuse pulled on the "Multimedia" circuit. But the additional 250 mA draw on the "Memory 2" circuit has me concerned enough that I disconnected the negative battery cable last night to avoid killing the new battery. I don't think it's a good idea to drive the car with the "Memory 2" fuse pulled.

Questions:

1. Does anyone know the factory specifications for acceptable power draw while the car is off?

2. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing the 250 mA draw on the "Memory 2" circuit while the car is off?

3. Is there any fix for the 600 mA drain on the "Multimedia" circuit, besides replacing the entire OEM multimedia system? (I imagine that would be VERY expensive!)

Bonus Question:

4. Does anyone know the purpose and function of the "Fuse On/Off" switch in the top center of the passenger compartment fuse panel (the panel above the drivers left leg)? Switching it to the off position had no effect on the parasitic drain. In other words, I was still seeing the 1,000mA/400mA/150mA drains whether the switch was in either the on or off position. So clearly, it does not shut off the entire fuse panel like a master switch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,553 Posts
Less than 50mA is preffered, see most all less than 30 (20-25 avg)

5yr/60,000 be Hyundai problem to remedy

Need chart to reflect all items on each circuit to work with.. refer to owner manual fuse page as start, but actual copy of ETM is what you want to track with
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
13,749 Posts
With everything off in the car and all doors closed, the ammeter showed a current of 1,000 mA (1 A)!
How long did you allow the car to sit with the meter inline before taking the reading?
It's not unusual to get a high drain initially when the battery is reconnected on modern vehicles. It takes 15~20mins for all the control units to shut down on some cars.

When I'm checking for a parasitic drain, I connect the meter then go have a cuppa and some bickys, and a wee read of the news paper, then I go back and look at the meter. If it's showing >50mA after that there's a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
How long did you allow the car to sit with the meter inline before taking the reading?
It's not unusual to get a high drain initially when the battery is reconnected on modern vehicles. It takes 15~20mins for all the control units to shut down on some cars.
That may have been the issue.

We took the car to the Hyundai dealer and they tested it. First, they said everything was within factory specifications. They told me that since they didn't find anything wrong, that we'd have to pay the $125 diagnostic test fee. I asked what was the measured amp draw and what the specifications were, so they went and asked the mechanic. Then they came back and told me it was ~10mA over the factory limit (without telling me what the actual numbers were). They said they wanted to keep the car until the end-of-the-day and test it again.

When we came back to pick up the car, they again told me that everything was within specifications. When I asked about the 10mA over, the mechanic said it was because he didn't run the first test long enough. They didn't seem to be very competent or forthcoming about everything. We ended up having to pay the test fee. I asked what happens if the problem presents itself again and they discover there actually is a warranty-covered defect. They told me then I wouldn't be charged on the next diagnostic fee. I asked if I'd get refunded for this test and was told "No."

Now I remember why I hate dealer service.
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
13,749 Posts
If you doubt what they're telling you, run the test again yourself. Include the tea and biscuits this time though and see what you get once everything has fully shut down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,219 Posts
I've seen some networks that had a module that may take as long as an hour to go to sleep. I remember some of the Chrysler and Jeeps that did that. I think there was Volvo or Audi that had some with insomnia.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,543 Posts
If push button start....Also make sure that no key FOB is within range. Not sure about Hyundai, but on some other manufacturer's models the BCM may see the FOB and stay awake anticipating a request.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
If push button start....Also make sure that no key FOB is within range. Not sure about Hyundai, but on some other manufacturer's models the BCM may see the FOB and stay awake anticipating a request.....
I had a problem about 2 months ago on my 2015 S F S, 4 cylinder, 50K plus mileage. I went to pull out of the garage and the car did not start.. I called roadside assistance and they came out and jumped the battery. The tech said everything checked out fine and I have had no problem since then. I also have gone to the dealer for an oil change and they said the battery didn't need to be replaced and everything checked out fine. I just hope they are all correct with winter approaching.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
3. Is there any fix for the 600 mA drain on the "Multimedia" circuit, besides replacing the entire OEM multimedia system? (I imagine that would be VERY expensive!)
SpyGuy10 any resolution? I'm dealing with this problem now too. Glad I saw your post or my brand new battery would be ruined, too. I've measured the multimedia power draw at 1.5A.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,543 Posts
JimHawk.....If you are still on the original battery I'd contemplate replacing it if you had an early purchase and the battery is more than four years old. Yes, I know that a lot of today's batteries last longer than that on average. I just do not like being stranded and treat batteries as maintenance items to be replaced after year four and before the year five winter season.

We use the GM version of the electronic battery testers that Hyundai probably uses and they are NOT perfect devices. We have had vehicles where the battery passed the electronic test yet a replacement battery solved the problem.

The only caveat to the "battery as preventive maintenance" thought....Some of the newer AGM batteries being used in vehicles with high electrical demands can be two or three times as expensive as a conventional battery, so that needs to be factored into the decision making process. Do NOT use a standard battery where an AGM was original equipment. We installed a couple of incorrect batteries that way by accident (Young Tech still in training tried to save owners some money) and they only lasted 30-60 days. We ate the replacements. It may be tempting to try a conventional battery to save the money but it is a bad idea.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Less than 50mA is preffered, see most all less than 30 (20-25 avg)

5yr/60,000 be Hyundai problem to remedy

Need chart to reflect all items on each circuit to work with.. refer to owner manual fuse page as start, but actual copy of ETM is what you want to track with
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
We are having a similar issue. Figured it was the battery but later discovered that when we turned off the vehicle, the AC kept running. Vehicle is still under warranty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,543 Posts
Can you be more specific? Do you mean one of the engine cooling fans or the blower motor? The HVAC compressor itself it belt driven, but the electric clutch could also stay engaged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
My wife turned the vehicle off... And when she returned to vehicle... The air conditioning unit was still running. But when she closed the door a second time it turned off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,543 Posts
OK. Blower motor then. That's darned odd. If this is a push button start there are no spare keys in or hidden on the vehicle / no keys left in close proximity to the vehicle, correct? Only asking because we have seen some odd things happen when people try to hide spare keys for lockout situations :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Also wondering if anyone has sent new info. I have the same issue, but I also found that the fuse in the engine bay for the blower motor is also pulling current. Otherwise, exact same issue with the multimedia fuse, the memory 2 and the 1amp momentary draw and then 400ma steady draw.

Please help! I have to leave my wife soon for 6 months and need to figure this out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Trying to start the her Santa Fe Sport 2.4 L this morning, my wife just found the battery of partially drained to the point where it turned over, but wouldn’t start. With the keys in my hand I popped the hood and heard something running and felt air coming out of some port at the top of front of the engine. Can anyone suggest what might be running and what might I do to solve the problem? I am not a gear-head, but not utterly blind under the hood.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top