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Hey guys,

Great site BTW!!! Ok so here is my question..

I have a 1998 Hyundai Accent Sport..auto trans with the overdrive button on econ button. Right now my car is sitting because it does not have reverse..park works fine. WHen I put the car into drive and pull away all seems fine until the car has to shift to the next gear...When it tries to shift to the next gear the rpms go up..as if it is not going to make it to the next gear..I left off the gas..press the gas slowly and it finally jumps into the next gear with a thud. I can drive it like this as long as the overdrive button is off...when the overdrive button is on it tries to switch up another gear (into overdrive I assume) and I have to go through the whole process of letting off the gas..pressing it slowly and finally it'll go up into OD. Now some background info...this problem happened suddenly...there was never any tranny slipping prior to the reverse going and the other problems. The tranny worked well then one day I put it into reverse to back into a parking spot and boom no reverse..no thuds when I switched to reverse..no slipping prior no signs that there may be a problem at all. Does anyone have any advice before I take her to a shop...I'd hate to get rooked into buying a new tranny if it doesn't need one.

Thx Jack
 

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Same problem happened to me 2 months a ago. I dropped the pan and changed the fuild and filter. It takes 4 qts (u.s.), use only SPIII from Hyundai or Mitsubishi. Go to an auto parts store and buy Lucas Tranny Fluid Fix (1 qt. u.s.). Put in 3.5 qts of the SPIII and .5 qt or a pint of the Lucas. This is the cheapest fix you can do! Give a day or 2 to go through the tranny. Also you MUST check the tranny fluid hot and it Neutral, not Park. Mine has been fine for 2 months now. If it still is bad, the next step would be to replace the 2 sensors in the tranny, cost about $45 (u.s.) for the pair, ez job.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thx alot for the tips man...yeah I did I search last night on this forum and it seems that alot of us have had this type of problem.
 

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I just experienced the same exact thing as Jack did, yesterday in my 98 Accent GL ...
Any reason to suspect to the pulse generator?

Of course, no one local that can look at and work on this for me...will need to see if I can drive about 50 mi to nearest dealer.
 

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Jack,
have your dealer check the end-clutch. It may has lost the "C"-clip, or need replacing. This is a maximum 2 hr. job.
 

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Thank you very much Duke...I did manage to make an apointment for tommorrow AM.

Other than not being able to go in Reverse and hard shift from 2nd to 3rd...any major issues with driving this car in current condition for 50 miles (sorry not sure of km conversion)?
 

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Duke,

Some sad news from the dealer...they just said need new trany...$2,400 US

Can't believe this would just go out w/o any warning whatsoever.

Any other thoughts?
 

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Dealer was able to find a used trany w/39k mi on it. Brought cost down to around $1700. They said replacing the filter and fluid not likley to help...dealer ploy to get more biz??

I'm w/o much choice at this point...got to have car to get to work--120 mi daily.

Thanks again for having a Forum for us to use!
 

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I'm expecting the same problem, I will made the swap to a standard transmission, a year ago, the converter stop doing his work...this time the tranny doesn't want to shift from 2 to third, but the tranny is doing a very loud noise...
 

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thanks for the great tip mvftw, i do have one question for you though. when you were changing the fluid did u replace the tranny filter as well? thanks so much. one more question, you mentioned changing the sensors in the transmission, where are they and what are they called? i went to advance auto and the guy told me there were no sensors for the transmission, but you seem like you know more about it that him. by the way my car is a 1998 hyundai accent, 1.5 liter and automatic with overdrive. thanks so much in advance, i am on a fixed income and need all the help i can get.
 

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I seem to be having a similar problem.

My wife was driving to work yesterday and all-of-a-sudden, our 2001 Accent would not shift... she was able to make it back home at 15 mph.
She pretty much told me almost the same thing JackStripey said:

"WHen I put the car into drive and pull away all seems fine until the car has to shift to the next gear...When it tries to shift to the next gear the rpms go up..as if it is not going to make it to the next gear..I left off the gas..press the gas slowly and it finally jumps into the next gear with a thud.... this problem happened suddenly...there was never any tranny slipping prior to the reverse going and the other problems. The tranny worked well then one day I put it into reverse to back into a parking spot and boom no reverse..no thuds when I switched to reverse..no slipping prior no signs that there may be a problem at all."

When she got home, I found out there was no reverse.
I checked the Tranny fluid...it was low and brown. So, I changed the filter and fluid... and ran it a little, but still no reverse. I'm too impatient to wait a day or two as mvftw suggested... I hope its just a matter of time.

The pan didn't have any remnants of metal other than a very small amount of fine shavings on the magnets.

We bought this car around 3-4 months ago with 81,000miles. My wife drive 70+ miles a day round trip to work... so we are at about 86,000 now. Before we bought it I checked the transmission fluid and it didn't look dark or dirty...nor did it smell burnt.

2001 Accent GL 1.6L Automatic

Any ideas, suggestions, experience?

Thanks for your time.
Brian
 

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I had the same problem. How i fixed it was i went to napa and bought sea foam for auto trannies. put it in and drove for about a mile and all my problems went away.
 

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Hi I am new to this form , I installed a used trans for a guy and took the old one apart to see what had broken in side ,well it was not the end clutch or bearing , there is a splined shaft that one of the drums is splined to and the splines where striped on the drum ,so the shaft turned and the drum did not ,all the clutches where good as new only damage was this spline I searched on the net to get a price on this drum and it was around 200 dollars and a lot of labor to replace .I know see why people put in a new trans or a good used one, this is what i found hope it helps
 

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QUOTE (Yarm @ Jun 21 2008, 08:05 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=171262
Hi I am new to this form , I installed a used trans for a guy and took the old one apart to see what had broken in side ,well it was not the end clutch or bearing , there is a splined shaft that one of the drums is splined to and the splines where striped on the drum ,so the shaft turned and the drum did not ,all the clutches where good as new only damage was this spline I searched on the net to get a price on this drum and it was around 200 dollars and a lot of labor to replace .I know see why people put in a new trans or a good used one, this is what i found hope it helps
I had exactly the same symptoms with a 1996 2L coupe , stuck in 1st - no reverse, and it was exactly the same problem, splines stripped in the kick drum.
It's not too bad to change, easy to get at once you have the trans out, and that's only a couple of hours work.

Actually, it doesn't get stuck in 1st as such, the trans still shifts to 2nd, but because 2nd is achieved simply by applying the kick drum band to override the planetary set, nothing happens because of the stripped splines.
A gentle shift to 3rd can be achieved by accelerating a bit in 1st, then take foot off gas, then move the shifter momentarily from drive to neutral then back to drive then press the gas again [but not too soon].
Make sure OD is set to 'off' as well [light illuminated on the dash] as the same kick drum is also needed for OD.
 

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I have a similar issue with my 98 Accent with overdrive. It shifts ok for the 1st 3 gears but races when going into overdrive - basically goes into neutral and RPMs go up. I have "learned" to back off on gas when going into OD until it catches then it's okay. It's annoying but I've learned to live with it.
 

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There are a series of very helpful links, in the linked thread below. Some apply to the O/D end clutch bearing, some to a burnt up kick-drum band, some to the stripped kick drum... READ ALL LINKS to familiarize yourself with what's going on in your 4 Speed Automatic. THESE THREADS APPLY TO ALMOST ANY FWD 4spd automatic with overdrive, that is attached to a 4 cylinder engine, from approx 1995 to 2007 (Accent, Elantra, Sonata, Tiburon, and possibly more FWDs)

My personal advice:
1: Check for codes. (It's helpful to know how many/which codes in the 700 range ex p0717, p0722, p0732, p0733, p0734) p1624 is only a TCM request to the ECM, to illuminate your check engine light and indicate a transmission error.

2: IF you have codes p0717 and/or p0722 ONLY... UNPLUG ALL electrical connections to transmission and test for REVERSE and DRIVE. If you have both gears during this test,
REPLACE the PULSE GENERATOR SET (PG-A and PG-B )
IF EITHER GEAR fails, remove transmission pan and inspect for debris before continuing. See post: more detailed

3: If you find tiny needle bearings, remove side O/D cover and inspect as detailed in related links (usually code p0734). CAREFULLY inspect clad seal at end of input shaft. This little stinker MUST be present and in good shape, as well as the thrust bearing, bearing cup, and spacer shim.

4: For codes P0732, and P0733 the transmission MUST be removed and overhauled. ANYTHING LESS than a COMPLETE overhaul is risky. A stripped kickdrum means LOTS of microscopic particles in your fluid which further damage already worn BUSHINGS and "O" ring seals. If you get code p0732 you will most likely be replacing the kickdrum, Sun gear, AND Sun gear bushings/seals. For code p0733 you will most likely be replacing your kickdrum BAND. (However... you MAY have a SERVO seal failure)

Whether your transmission is a 4 Solenoid, or 6 solenoid (A4A or A4B series) the solenoids can be "tested" by unplugging the 4 or 6 wire connector (lowest plug, just above the corner of the pan) and apply voltage to each pin and listen for the click. May take a few tries to hear. DO NOT HOLD power to any solenoid as you may burn it out! Only briefly touch each one. IF any fail remove and retest solenoids. It is best to REPLACE the full set if any fail.

IF you go through the effort to remove and tear down your transmission because of a HARD PART FAILURE, as opposed to just swapping it out, do yourself a HUGE favor, and replace ALL BUSHINGS (bushing kit), ALL SEALS and "O" rings (Overhaul kit), AND what ever kit that covers the failed component (NOT JUST THE FAILED COMPONENT, but the all touching components with ANY damaged or wear, regardless of how slight it may seem) NOTHING should "wobble", as it is often that "loose play" leads to most of these failures.

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/183-lc-2000-2005-accent/156087-p0734-transmission-problems.html
 
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