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Discussion Starter #1
Okay I replaced the starter (AGAIN) and its doing the same thing occurs..intermittent start..sometimes NOTHING when I turn the key, sometimes it starts, or sometimes low crank....this is very frustrating..when it DOES NOT CRANK..and does NOTHING..I get 11.6 volts at trigger wire with key on when it does not crank..is this ok? I assume if I a getting voltage there that it would start and that clutch switch (manual tranni and ignition switch would us be okay.
Can SOMEONE please help???..this is very frustrating..I have perfect battery voltage and 770 cca and alterrnator is fine>SOS ANY SUGESTIONS??
I hot wired from battery positive to silver terminal spade on solenoid and now car cranks everything (starter cranks with this bypass.any suggestions? battery voltage and altenator are ok SOS HELP! what could wrong?
 

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Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
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what could wrong?
Faulty ignition switch.
Faulty clutch pedal switch.
Faulty start relay.
Or problems with the wiring that links all those parts together.
Testing the voltages at each component will tell you which it is.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #4
AUTO\I am not good with testing, can u please explain in real simple terms how I would test and do I have to push in clutch to do multimeter reading and put key in start or run position?
My mechanic came by and we replaced starter relay and that didn't work..the starter works fine when we hot wire it..with the heat and humidity here it a bear to work on it He said he doesn't think enough amps are going thru the trigger wire, thus starter wont start..its intermittent..when u turn key to run, nothing, then sometimes will start, then slow crank, then nothing....its weird I have 11.6 volts at trigger wire to starter solenoid and still wont start..????????????????//???????????
Faulty ignition switch.
Faulty clutch pedal switch.
Faulty start relay.
Or problems with the wiring that links all those parts together.
Testing the voltages at each component will tell you which it is.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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2007 Honda CRV
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Post #4 OP said mechanic came over and put in a relay.
Still no good.
My suggestion would be to clean the battery posts and cable terminals
Follow the negative cable to chassis ground and clean up grounding point
Then go to engine grounding strap and clean up those things
Also, clean terminal on starter and ignition wire.
(if cheap enough then replace the ignition switch, not lock cylinder)

If you want to test for ground fault then take test light
Clip to battery negative post
Test light to engine block
And crank engine
If the test light turns on then ground fault
Although, I doubt this since by-pass with a jumper helps to crank engine
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I need a new car folks..lol this is crazy..yes we swapped three relays out all with same part # that didnt solve problem..we might just make a switch button hot wired to battery positive to bypass everything a royal PAIN, this is, especially in this heat we are having..ugh thanks for everyones help
 

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This post looks familiar.
I have 11.6 volts at trigger wire
If that's the case and it works every time with the bypass I would suggest there is a voltage drop in the ignition crank circuit as has been suggested. I would wire a relay as close as possible to the solenoid taking power from the main starter cable to the relay terminal 30 or 87. I don't know how the relay that's there was wired in but they should be close to the solenoid to be effective. From what you say I am confident that will fix your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
my starter relay in under the drivers dash..I dont know all that much about electronics, and the car is so old so i am trying my best to save monies here. the relay tested good as i have the original shop maual..the car starts better now as i moved the wore that also goes up under dash to trigger wire on solenoid..i dont know what kind of relay you are asking me to install a four pin one like the small ones that are in all cars? you are saying to buy a new relay and wire it to the battery positive fat wire that goes onto my starter..please explain in simpler terms step by step if you can..thank you..I have a new ignition switch that I can install....and one mechanic online said if the car will only start when i hot wire it then the clutch switch or ign switch is bad? my clutch switch has no continuity when open and continuity when i manually push the button to close the switch...like i said I need a new car but am trying hard. I trust your advice but think its over my comprehension ...
 

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But you said it gets 11.6 volts to the solenoid and doesn't work. Maybe I am reading it wrong. As I said I would wire in a relay as close to the starter as possible. I see no benefit of having one inside the car under the dash but I don't have a wiring diagram. Their easy to install.
 

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But you said it gets 11.6 volts to the solenoid and doesn't work.
I suspect that'll be 11.6V with the wire disconnected from the solenoid. It might be significantly less that that when it's connected.

Their easy to install.
Everything is easy when you know how. But "over my comprehension" suggests he doesn't know how. So maybe you could offer some step by step instructions?

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #15
yes the 11.6 volts is when the trigger wire is tested at its end and REMOVED from the solenoid.
I dont know anything about wiring relays in and what kind of relay? and I dont know how to hook it up...do u think the clucth switch can be bad when there is a NO CRANK(nothing) when i turn the key? I will ohm it out again when it wont crank and is silent when i turn the key....u dont think its the ign switch?
or clutch switch? thanks AUTO!
 

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Have you tried reading voltage at the starter relay to see if that is 12+ volts or at 11.6 volts?
Have you tried checking the fuse box for corrosion??
Sometimes one side of the fuse is corroded but the fuse will check Ok in the box??

Note: Using the Ohm function to troubleshoot a voltage drop issue doesn't work well.
Circuit should be test under load for voltage drop.
Also voltage drops are usually (not always) found near or at connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I use a VOLT METER SET on DC VOLTS(multimeter) . Then i remove the trigger wire to SOLENOID=small wire..it reads 11.6 DC VOLTS when i probe inside the trigger wire when car does NOT CRANK= i turn key to start position and it does nothing. thats when the trigger WIRE (that clips onto spade terminal..is 11.6 dc volts..not on the actual silver terminal on solenoid itself.
It was starting fine and now same thing..no crank :(
all the fuses check good and i cleaned all ground wires 12.6 bat volts and alt charging at 13.9 dc volts
 

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Discussion Starter #18
HELLO FOLKS!!! FINIALLY FIXED THE OLD BOMB 92 EXCEL INTERMITTENT NO START..IT WAS A BAD IGNITION SWITCH..the only other things that came to mind was a bad starter relay or clutch switch but both checked out good..for $14 part; SOLVED..thanks everyone for all your help..much appreciated!!!
 

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HELLO FOLKS!!! FINIALLY FIXED THE OLD BOMB 92 EXCEL INTERMITTENT NO START..IT WAS A BAD IGNITION SWITCH..the only other things that came to mind was a bad starter relay or clutch switch but both checked out good..for $14 part; SOLVED..thanks everyone for all your help..much appreciated!!!
Thanks for the update
Guess the ignition switch was the last part to check??
 
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