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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. Found this forum and been searching for some info. Lots of good stuff here but i havent found any info on the intercooler replacement. Ive lost all boost and my santa fe has been diagnosed with needing a new intercooler? Anyone ever change one? Is there a step by step anywhere on the site?
Thanks
 

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where did you get this diagnosed? the only scenario i can think of is the ic leaking, which is rare, but can happen. what about just a simple hose/connection(far more common)? or wastegate/control?
 

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I actually took it to the local hyundai dealer. I usually do my own work but im not familiar with turbos as this is my first turbo setup. I didnt get any more details other than it needs the intercooler replaced.
 

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They want $600 for the intercooler plus $400 labour so i ordered one from rockauto and ill attempt to put it on myself. Hopefully someone with some experience changing one will chime in. I can only assume its pulling apart at the seams with 150000kms and 6 salty winter seasons.
 

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2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0t limited
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I have 7 salty season and 270 000km on mine and no intercooler leak. I find this really strange, but thats not impossible that it failed, like a radiator that could leak too. I dont think anyone ever replace one here. Did they say whats wrong with it? What is the symptoms of the problem you have that made you bring it to the dealer?

Did you have a check engine light? What was the code?

I presume a leaky intercooler would cause a lost of power, probably some kind of compressed air noise when the turbo is spooling and a check engine light.

What fail most often is the wastegate actuator. This cause a very very low power engine, and very high rpm shift point, but no other anormal symptoms (start fine, idle fine etc..). When it start to fail, shutting down and restarting the engine will most of the time magically fix the problem for some time. Check engine should come up after failing a couples of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have 7 salty season and 270 000km on mine and no intercooler leak. I find this really strange, but thats not impossible that it failed, like a radiator that could leak too. I dont think anyone ever replace one here. Did they say whats wrong with it? What is the symptoms of the problem you have that made you bring it to the dealer?

Did you have a check engine light? What was the code?

I presume a leaky intercooler would cause a lost of power, probably some kind of compressed air noise when the turbo is spooling and a check engine light.

What fail most often is the wastegate actuator. This cause a very very low power engine, and very high rpm shift point, but no other anormal symptoms (start fine, idle fine etc..). When it start to fail, shutting down and restarting the engine will most of the time magically fix the problem for some time. Check engine should come up after failing a couples of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So basically no boost. With the torque app goes from vacuum to about 0.5psi of boost and thats it. No cel light but p0299 "grey" code with torque app.
No amount of start stop changes anything. Wastegate voltage is a little high at 4.37 but i didnt think that would change from running fine to no boost at all.
 

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This is what I just experienced last night. I was driving into work in my 2014 Santa Fe Sport 2.0 and accelerated to pass a truck on the highway. I heard a loud "POP" and then I noticed that the vehicle didn't have anywhere near the same power it had 5min prior. I noticed that the vehicle will still have smooth RPM build up but the shift points seem much higher. No CEL or any lights at all.

My mechanic was able to pull a code that stated under boost but due to his time constraints that's all we learned.

I called the dealer to see if I had any coverage under my warranty, sadly none, however the tech asked on the phone if I heard a loud "POP" prior to these issues. I obviously said I did and he went on to say it's the intercooler, 4th time in a year he has had that happen.

Looks like I'm getting that ordered.

My question is this, is there a better aftermarket, stronger option available or is it best to stick with OEM from them?

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Looking at mine its just press fit top and bottom with a rubber gasket to seal it. After i replaced mine ive heard of a few people taking them off, pressing them together then rebending the tabs to hold it together. If it happens to me again im going to look for an aftermarket but due to time constraints i just ordered an oem replacement from rockauto.
 

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Looking at mine its just press fit top and bottom with a rubber gasket to seal it. After i replaced mine ive heard of a few people taking them off, pressing them together then rebending the tabs to hold it together. If it happens to me again im going to look for an aftermarket but due to time constraints i just ordered an oem replacement from rockauto.
I just got the call back from my mechanic and he said once they got the bumper off the intercooler had split along the long end of the cooler. I'm looking into a possible heavy duty cooler but we shall see what we can get up in Ont during covid
 

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Just wanted to to update this thread with my results for anyone else in the same situation.

The intercooler blew out the seam along the long end and was impossible to see without smoke testing it.

My mechanic called around including two dealers in the area and learned that the Hyundai dealers are having back order issues from the factory. As such they are purchasing them from an aftermarket place in the city, the same place my mechanic uses. The dealer wanted 785-800 plus tax and 1.5hrs install, the aftermarket intercooler is $400 and completely welded with no press fitting joints.

Crazy market up.

Best of luck to anyone experiencing the "Under boost" codes.
 
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