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My Uniway PX6 head unit arrived today. It took only 10 days. Import fees were just under $40 CAD. Unit price was $455 + $28 for shipping. So in total it was around $525 CAD.

It came with an Asottu card in the box, so I guess Uniway is the same company. I suspected that might be the case as I was debating between an Asottu and the Uniway on AliExpress...

The thing I was most worried about was boot time. I wasn't looking forward to 30+ second waits. This one boots up in only 11-12 seconds! It's very fast and responsive overall. The screen is wonderful. The UI is pretty decent out of the box as well. I'm very impressed, and I'm a pretty picky person when it comes to tech.

However I have one major issue so far. I have no sound to my factory amp! I think it might be a simple setting that I'm not finding, or an issue with the CANBUS box that came with it. I'm waiting to hear back from Uniway about it.
 

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Has anyone installed one of these units in a European Santa Fe? I know there are a lot of similarities but the OEM head units are very different from what I can tell
 

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However I have one major issue so far. I have no sound to my factory amp! I think it might be a simple setting that I'm not finding, or an issue with the CANBUS box that came with it. I'm waiting to hear back from Uniway about it.
I got sound to work but so far it's not looking like a setup that I want to have.
  • The FL/FR speaker outputs (RCA connectors) from the new head unit needed to be plugged into the AUX inputs on the CANBUS/SPDIF box.
    Seems that they are converting FL/FR analog output to SPDIF to the Infinity amp.
    Having that conversion sucks.
    Having that conversion based on only the FL/FR sucks even more.
  • There was only audio from the left speaker initially.
    Fixed by going into the Car Info app and then under Audio-A bringing up the balance and fade to their half way points. Same with the treble, bass, etc.
  • The Equalizer app isn't aware of this analog-to-SPDIF conversion so half of it's settings don't work.
    Eg: adjusting the fade here will result in no sound if you move it to the rear of the vehicle. The subwoofer settings do nothing either.
    I assume because the RL, RR, and Sub cables are not sent to the CANBUS/SPDIF box.
    Seems like we're meant to use the Audio-A app for some things instead, but the brief time I spent playing with Treble/Bass in there seem to have no effect either.
Another annoyance I'm having with this unit so far is that any time anything HVAC changes, it pops up on the screen. This means if you use AUTO (which I do and everyone should imo) then it pops up all the **** time as the fan speed and fan direction is automatically adjusted. I think it even pops up every time the outside temp changes.

The HVAC thing is something I'm sure I can overcome with my software skills.. but the audio thing seems like a hardware limitation. I am waiting to hear back from Uniway about it. I'll probably return the unit if I'm right about how it works with the Infinity system.
 

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So I didn't end up returning it as it would cost over $200 to ship it back. Instead I listed it for sale and shortly after that I put it back into the vehicle. I've grown to like it despite its (many) flaws.

I have half-decent sound settings now. I still do not recommend this if you have the stock amp, but it can sometimes sound as good or better. Depends on volume and content, with the DSP settings I've settled on.

Some more issues I've come across since my last post:
  • The amp settings in Car Info > Audio-A are messed up, as I've mentioned. But in more ways than I thought.
    • "Sound" has to be left at 25 as it gets reset to 25 every startup (it will show you the number you set it to previously, but it will only sound as loud as 25).
    • Treble adjusts Bass.
    • Bass adjusts Treble.
    • There's very little bass unless you crank it (the Treble slider...) to the max, or leave it at 0 and use Loudness and Bass Enhancement in the DSP app. The stock head unit had much more bass at 0 without any additional settings.
  • You can't hear notifications over the built-in Radio app (and probably not over AUX and the others either).
    • Those apps seem to use a different sound channel or something, for some reason.
    • This also means you wouldn't be able to hear navigation over the radio, but they account for this using a hacky workaround where you choose a single nav app from the 'Car Settings' area, and it will mute the radio or mix the nav audio into the radio channel so you can hear directions.
  • I couldn't figure out how to turn off the radio when I didn't want to listen to something else.
    • Turns out you have to press the back button to close out of it, to stop it from playing.
  • The BTPhone app syncs my phone contacts in a way that messes them all up.
    • All last names end up as part of the first name, and then if contact sync is enabled for my Google account, it adds them all as new contacts.
    • Eg, Contact Ryan Ewen gets shown as RyanEwen in BTphone, and added as a new contact to Google.
    • I've turned off contact syncing for now to avoid that mess.
  • You can't initiate calls from Google Assistant or Google Contacts, or any other app that could normally initiate a call.
    • Some other head units have third-party solutions that I believe require root to work around this.
  • The built-in mic is trash.
    • They seem to be trash on almost all of these Android units. This is why they provide you an external mic as a "gift".
    • I don't see why the built-in mic on the vehicle can't be used. I've read that people wired it up without any issues. I might do that.
  • The 'frame' (as they call it) that fills the gap below the screen, where the stock units buttons were, does not fit well.
    • I had to take a knife and cut some plastic off of the supports that are in its way. It still doesn't fit that well (gaps around the edges).
  • The media skip/prev buttons (steering wheel controls) only work in the built-in apps. They don't use standard signals in the Android OS.
    • You can get this working with a rooted OS and an Xposed module, supposedly.
  • GPS was working great for me at first, but now it's taking minutes to get a lock.
    • I uninstalled a GPS test app that came preloaded. I wonder if that caused this.
  • There was no mounting hardware provided.
    • The mounting brackets from the stock head unit can be used, but you have to find the right screws to fit into the Android unit on your own.
  • The backup cam shows buttons for other angles, despite me not having a 360 setup.
    • There is a setting for this, but it won't let me change it.
  • There is a graphic for the backup collision sensors that comes up when you are reversing, but it doesn't seem to know when the sensors are going off.
    • There is a setting to turn this feature off, but again it won't let me change it.
Some good things though:
  • It's Android after all, so there's a lot of nice things you can do on it.
  • Action Launcher has made for the cleanest setup I've found so far. I don't see the appeal in any of the popular car launchers. I really dislike all of them
    • Action Launcher: Pixel Edition - Apps on Google Play
    • I turn off the 'dock' (as the orientation of this unit has launchers thinking that docks go on the right side of the screen). Instead I make a row of my favorites along the bottom of the screen, and have the date widget at the top.
  • Sidebar 2 has made it much easier to switching between my favorite apps, since there are no dedicated buttons to do so.
  • HotSpot Automatic gets my phone to turn on its WiFi Hotspot automatically only when I'm in the car.
  • I mentioned this before, but this thing turns on really quickly (10-15 seconds max).
  • You can use the backup camera before it's booted up!
  • HeadUnit Reloaded works really well for Android Auto, when plugged in
I'm curious what the Tesla-style units will be like. I like the idea of those because of the dedicated areas on the screen for app icons as well as climate controls. But the screen resolutions are so low on them, and with the orientation they use, it makes me wonder how well apps show.
 

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I got sound to work but so far it's not looking like a setup that I want to have.
  • The FL/FR speaker outputs (RCA connectors) from the new head unit needed to be plugged into the AUX inputs on the CANBUS/SPDIF box.
    Seems that they are converting FL/FR analog output to SPDIF to the Infinity amp.
    Having that conversion sucks.
    Having that conversion based on only the FL/FR sucks even more.
  • There was only audio from the left speaker initially.
    Fixed by going into the Car Info app and then under Audio-A bringing up the balance and fade to their half way points. Same with the treble, bass, etc.
  • The Equalizer app isn't aware of this analog-to-SPDIF conversion so half of it's settings don't work.
    Eg: adjusting the fade here will result in no sound if you move it to the rear of the vehicle. The subwoofer settings do nothing either.
    I assume because the RL, RR, and Sub cables are not sent to the CANBUS/SPDIF box.
    Seems like we're meant to use the Audio-A app for some things instead, but the brief time I spent playing with Treble/Bass in there seem to have no effect either.
Another annoyance I'm having with this unit so far is that any time anything HVAC changes, it pops up on the screen. This means if you use AUTO (which I do and everyone should imo) then it pops up all the **** time as the fan speed and fan direction is automatically adjusted. I think it even pops up every time the outside temp changes.

The HVAC thing is something I'm sure I can overcome with my software skills.. but the audio thing seems like a hardware limitation. I am waiting to hear back from Uniway about it. I'll probably return the unit if I'm right about how it works with the Infinity system.
Interesting. I got the same unit as the originator and I'm having the same issue as you, NO sound. Everything else seems to work. I will have to try what you mentioned above to see if I get any sound. I thought I had tried every combination.

One question, unlike the stock unit which is screwed to the dash, this unit is only supported by the flange or its edges. Is this the same for you? I'm wondering if I'm missing a bracket.
 

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Interesting. I got the same unit as the originator and I'm having the same issue as you, NO sound. Everything else seems to work. I will have to try what you mentioned above to see if I get any sound. I thought I had tried every combination.

One question, unlike the stock unit which is screwed to the dash, this unit is only supported by the flange or its edges. Is this the same for you? I'm wondering if I'm missing a bracket.
There was no mounting hardware provided.
  • The mounting brackets from the stock head unit can be used, but you have to find the right screws to fit into the Android unit on your own.
Same deal. The flanges + the vents are doing a pretty good job at holding it into the dash, but it would have been nice to screw it in properly that's for sure.
 

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Assuming you have the Infinity system, the head unit needs to be hooked up so that the Front left and right RCA plugs going to the CANBUS/SPDIF box.

In Car Info > Audio-A make sure to center every setting. Ignore the numerical value that shows up, the center is the proper setting.

For me these were:
  • Sound at 25 instead of 0.
  • FAD at 10 (50% front, 50% rear) instead of 0.
  • BAL at 10 (50% left, 50% right) instead of 0.
  • Treble at 0 instead of -10.
  • Middle at 0 instead of -10.
  • Bass at 0 instead of -10.
In the equalizer app turn off Surround Sound as it relies on the rear channels to work and with the Infinity system, we lose the rear and sub channels (they get recreated from the front channels instead). I'd suggest turning it off in general since it's only good for the driver and bad for everyone else anyway.

Also in the equalizer app I suggest turning on Loudness (tap Settings button on the screen with all the sliders) so that you have some bass at lower volumes. I also use Preset Mode 1 and have Bass Enhancement to 4 at < 68hz I think. I'm still changing these all the time to find a good balance between sound quality at lower and higher volume. An alternative that I didn't mind was leaving the equalizer flat, no Loudness, no Bass Enhancement, and just turning the Treble slider (which is really Bass) in Audio-A.
 

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Thanks Rewen, I will have to try out theses suggestions. It's been a couple of months since I touched the unit. Will have to familiarize myself again. My experience so far has been absolutely no sound, no hiss, no static, nothing! After following the suggestions from Support, they came to the conclusion that it was the DSP chip / module. Hopefully they are wrong.

Thanks again.
 

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That reminds me.. with sound working I don't notice any hiss or static or any of those nuisances.

However I just traded my vehicle in for a 2016 Sorento SX Turbo so my Android head unit is up for sale. I'm just going to use Android Auto in the Sorento.

Also worth mentioning is Android Auto worked really well with this Android head unit, in conjunction with Head Unit Reloaded app. I set the display density or display scaling option (I forget what it was called) to a slightly higher number (20 more than the default I think) in order to make things bigger and move the bar with the music controls to the bottom of the screen. I started using that a lot more than the native apps. It's really nice since they updated the AA interface.
 

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I was going through my photos and found a little demo I did of the Sidebar 2 app - anyone using an Android head unit that doesn't have dedicated buttons for different sources should check this out:

 

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Hi Rewen,

I have purchased a android head unit myself and its a tesla 10.4' screen. However, i found out that my unit came completely unconfigured. The seller has promised to send me a new updated unit when it is released however in the meantime. Here is what i found. My unit came with android 8.1 they provided me with android 9 update file.

You are right they claim the FL and FR have to be connected as our amplifer will take 2 connections FL and FR which then our amp dispurses the sound out to all speakers. They claim there is no way for digital fade and balance like the Axxess SWC/SPDIF boxes that retain digital fade and balance. However, a fix is coming. Using the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 Digital Signal Processing unit which will replace our factory amplifier then allow us to run our own amplifier. It will be completely plug n play. I spoke with Maestro regarding the idatalink connection kits for hyundai santa fe and they said it is in the works right now and it will be released. Instead i will connect everything using high quality rca connections, add an amplifier and control every aspect of the speakers with the rockford application. I spoke with the engineers of the android unit and they told me theres no way to get fade and balance to work with original amp. So this new revelation adding our own dsp unit that will allow us to replace our factory amp and add our own amplifier is amazing. i think this way ill get a really good infinity or jbl amp through harmon kardon and keep everything as original as possible.
 

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Hi Rewen,

I have purchased a android head unit myself and its a tesla 10.4' screen. However, i found out that my unit came completely unconfigured. The seller has promised to send me a new updated unit when it is released however in the meantime. Here is what i found. My unit came with android 8.1 they provided me with android 9 update file.

You are right they claim the FL and FR have to be connected as our amplifer will take 2 connections FL and FR which then our amp dispurses the sound out to all speakers. They claim there is no way for digital fade and balance like the Axxess SWC/SPDIF boxes that retain digital fade and balance. However, a fix is coming. Using the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 Digital Signal Processing unit which will replace our factory amplifier then allow us to run our own amplifier. It will be completely plug n play. I spoke with Maestro regarding the idatalink connection kits for hyundai santa fe and they said it is in the works right now and it will be released. Instead i will connect everything using high quality rca connections, add an amplifier and control every aspect of the speakers with the rockford application. I spoke with the engineers of the android unit and they told me theres no way to get fade and balance to work with original amp. So this new revelation adding our own dsp unit that will allow us to replace our factory amp and add our own amplifier is amazing. i think this way ill get a really good infinity or jbl amp through harmon kardon and keep everything as original as possible.
Didn't catch this post until now. In my case I could actually control fade and balance using the Car Info app and then Audio-A within that. It's okay for the most basic use case where you just set it once and forget it. But it means that if your audio source is actually outputting discrete rear and sub signals then you lose those, which is a bummer. This is a pretty big deal right out of the box as these Android units seem to have the 'surround sound' feature turned on by-default!

I wasn't prepared to replace the sub or anything else in my vehicle and after a lot of messing about I got decent sound from it. But it as all bad timing. I traded in for a 2016 Sorento SX and love the stock sound system and the infotainment system is pretty good and Android Auto completely covers everything that I need.
 
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