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The fuel filter is a maintenance item at least for the 2011 Accent GL, but
look at your manual to find out. Mine says it must be replaced at every 52500
miles or 42 months. I hit the time limit.

Before you start, let me warn you that if you do this job, you will be working
near gasoline, which is a highly flammable dangerous substance. Work only in
well ventilated area, and do not create sparks or open fire. Do not operate a
garage heater that uses either. Do not operate a vacuum cleaner: it sucks air
through the engine, and if you happen to suck in gasoline vapor, it can end in
a disaster. And needless to say, do it at your own risk; I take no
responsibility for lost eyebrows or lives.

1. Purchase the correct part, and make sure you have the necessary tools. You
will need a couple standard sockets (12 mm and 8 mm if I remember correctly)
with an extension, and probably a small and a larger flat head screwdriver.
Note: my dealer didn't have the filter on stock (even though it is a
maintenance item), so they ordered it for me.



2. Here is the filter out of the box. This is it's natural orientation in the
tank.



3. Use your socket extension to remove the bolt that holds down the rear seat
cushion. You can spot the bolt if you press away the cushion before you insert
the socket, so you don't have to work blind.



4. Once the bolt is removed, press this tab on the bottom of the cushion, and
lift up the seat carefully. There is an identical tab on the other side. Once
both are pushed in and the seat cushion is lifted, you should be able to
remove it.



5. When you lift the seat, you will see the fuel pump cover underneath.



6. Here is the fuel pump cover with the seat completely removed.



7. Just lift up the cover to reveal the fuel pump underneath.



8. Remove the electrical connector. It serves (at least) a dual purpose: it
powers the fuel pump, and it receives the signal from the fuel level sending
unit.



9. The connector is removed and out of the way. I'm wondering what's that
debris around the hole. Some small critter might have burrowed here some
time? Yuck...

By the way, if you must use a vacuum cleaner, do it now. After this step you
will open the fuel system, and fuel vapor will be in the air until the end of
the job.



10. Start the engine and wait until it stalls. This relieves the fuel pressure
so fuel will not come sprinkling at you when you disconnect the fuel line. (It
will still drip though.)



11. Disconnect the blue and green connectors (you have to press the tabs).
Then remove the black line from the white plastic fuel pump cover. You have to
press down the black tab and slide it out. Remove the 8 small bolts from the
circular metal ring that holds down the pump.



12. Carefully lift out the fuel pump. It's a bit fragile, especially the float
and arm at the bottom. (What's that crap in my tank? I was tempted to try to
fish some debris out, but I decided against it.)



13. Here is the pump out with the new filter on its left. As you see, the
filter is part of the pump assembly. The next part of the job is to transfer
the pump, the float, the plastic hose and every thing onto the new filter. You
have to pry off the top part and the bottom part (beware of the tabs). Be very
careful not to miss any gaskets!



14. Here is the pump assembly partially disassembled.



15. Reassembled with the new filter.



16. Put it together reversing the removal operations. Torque of the small
bolts is 2.2 ft.lbs. Do not overtighten, or you might damage the gasket.



You will smell gas in your car for a day or two, but it should dissipate over
time.

Record everything carefully and file it away with the receipt for the fuel
filter. Enjoy your intact warranty!
 
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