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Discussion Starter #1
Just put the new belt on. During the tensioner install, the Crank moved CCW by ONE TOOTH.

The cam is still at TDC.

i need to know what to do.

Can i rotate the crank back one tooth?
Do i pull the belt and rotate the crank freely CCW until its aligned again?

Please help.

Thanks.
 

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First remove the tensioner, tighten the crank bolt back with impact gun, then you can turn the bolts using socket wrench to rotate the crank/cam.

Usually it's easier to turn the cam or other sprockets with socket wrench, leave the crank fixed
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I need to know specifically,

If i take off the the belt,
Replace the crank pulley.

I can rotate the crank independantly of the came correct?

That is to say without the belt, the cam will remain at TDC.

And i will rotate the crank while the cam stays in place at TDC.

Is this ok?
Thanks
 

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Take off the belt again.

Rotate cams and crank to correct marks.

Reinstall the belt.

Do a few rotations via crank to make sure all lines up again at some point.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can i rotate the Crank freely of the Cam?

I thought they have to move together?

I take the belt off, Cam is at TDC.

Do i rotate the Crank ONLY?

Do I have to rotate BOTH?

I need to be very clear, as i dont want to cause damage.

"Cam/ crank" is too ambiguous.

Please be specifc.

Thanks alot.

Again not to be a pain, but i need to be certain of exactly what do.

Also i am assuming CW rotation in all cases.

That I cannot rotate the CRANK backward (CCW ) one tooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also to restate, the CAM is perfect. Only the CRANK is off.

By removing the belt any rotation will no longer be constrained, and should be considered free independant rotation.


Theres no way with the belt off i can physically rotate both at the same time, and same speed.

And i dont want to break it.
 

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crank can stay at any position, but cam and others won't. So you may need to leave the cam at a release position, rotate the crank, put the belt and tensioner on, then rotate the crank back to check if they line up. Before putting on tensioner you may need to rotate the cam a little bit to align correctly
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Im sorry i dont know what that means.

The cam is at TDC.

Do I remove the belt and only rotate crank?
 

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Did you remove all spark plugs? Having them out helps a lot. No compression means easy to move the crank.

Yes, one tooth is not a problem to move either direction. Do it with your hand or gently with a wrench.

Loosen the belt, no need to completely remove it, and adjust the cam or crank, whichever you feel like.
It is better to move crank than cam, but again - either one will be OK for a small movement.

Think of it this way - sometimes when you turn the engine off, it will be in compression, almost TDC, in one cylinder. The moment it stops, pressure may move it backwards. And nothing happens, right?
So, one or even two teeth is just fine.


Then, once all is tight, move by hand, or a wrench with good touch, one full turn (360 degrees cam, that is 720 degrees crank). If all good, then crank it a few times (fuel pump and ignition off, (pull the fuses) sparks still out). Verify marks.

You are done.
Final torque-ing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you for your detailed reply.

I wanted to post and say what i did:

Left the belt attached, crank was Forward CW from set point by approx 1/2 tooth.

Cam was TDC.

All spark plugs were removed as i planned to change plugs and wires also.

I stuck my whole thumb in the spark plug hole for cyl 1. All the way so that my palm sealed against the hole.

With my other hand, i turned the crank until i felt a good bit of pressue squirting out around my thumb. To verify i was on cyl 1 compression stroke.

I then took two long bbq skewers electrical taped together to make a very long stick. Put it in cyl one spark plug hole till it hit the piston top.

I slowly rotated the crank and watched the stick rise. Once it stopped rising i rotated a tiny smidge more.

I pulled off the crank pulley and verified that the crank was indeed on its mark.

Since the cam was at Tdc before, but now i stopped with the crank on its mark, now the cam was obvi a little short of tdc.

I used a dewalt hand clamp that has soft clamp surfaces and slighty clamped around the crank as to keep the belt fully engaged.

I then removed the belt from the cam and advanced it by hand CW. actually a little too far. I then moved it back CCW by hand the 1-2mm to TDC.

At this point i installed the tensioner pully.
**Note i broke my original tensioner pulley by accidently rotating it TOO FAR.

It says CCW only, but even if you rotate CCW, if you rotate past top center or even say 3 oclock, you will RUIN THE TENSIONER.

I had to buy another pulley kit and use the new one.

Take the tensioner pully exactly as it sits. Put the pin to the right. You should see the pointer and window to the right of the pulley behind the belt but below that cam pulley. Start the bolt in say 50% then pull the pin. The belt should sit between the pulley and the pin.

The pulley manual may say to rotate the accentric AND the pulley bolt at the same time. DONT DO THIS.

tighten the accentric first. Then HOLD IT THERE.

Then tighten the pulley bolt.

If you have reached the max tension on the accentric, and belt is still loose. DO NOT try to keep turning CCW. IT WONT tighten any further and the pulley will spin around and break.

Relieve tension. You have to carefully take up some slack on the non tensioner pulley side of the belt by carefully pulling more of belt around to the tensioner side,
WITHOUT pulling too hard and rotating the crank, which is what i think happened to me.

Then redo then tensioner as above.

I rotated the crank full revs and confirmed that the crank and cam are both back at their marks.

Continue rebuilding as normal from here.
Perhaps i got lucky and was only off by 1 tooth max.

Hopefully this will help some one down the line. I know i sure pulled my hair out for hours.

After about 20 hours, i finally got it buttoned up. Runs good. I pulled it out of the garage and it seems good.

Thanks all for your help.
 
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