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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I had experienced the drunk fuel sensor for a while before it finally died and would no long read anything above E. The check engine light was also on at this time. So I read up on it bought the OEM parts online and had a mechanic fix it for around $150 labor. After he replaced both sensors I noticed one of the senders had broken pins, figured he fixed the problem replacing both.

Well long story short my problem wasn't fixed. My gauge now reads almost half a tank and doesn't move even when topped off or almost empty.

The check engine lamp came on the day after the duel replacement and read "High Input Fuel Sensor" I believe, I'll have codes pulled tomorrow.

Was there anything else that should of been done after installing the new sensors? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I've searched everywhere for an answer.
 

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one of the senders had broken pins? as in the old one? My guess is improper installation, or improper parts.

Improper installation could be as simple as putting the wrong sensor on the wrong side, or a physically bent float arm.

Improper parts...it happens. not common, but if you got two of the same floats and the mechanic managed to get them on there (even though the float arms go in totally separate directions) it would screw it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
one of the senders had broken pins? as in the old one? My guess is improper installation, or improper parts.

Improper installation could be as simple as putting the wrong sensor on the wrong side, or a physically bent float arm.

Improper parts...it happens. not common, but if you got two of the same floats and the mechanic managed to get them on there (even though the float arms go in totally separate directions) it would screw it up.
One of the old senders had broken pins, the new senders were brand new. I ordered both the sub sender and main sender two separate parts.

Both the correct parts per a thread I read on here in regards to sender replacement on 07's and they matched the parts pulled.

I just read that someone else encountered a similar problem that I'm having now. After he took it in for a second time they told him it was a float problem. Is it possible the floats were rotated and aren't the same level when in the tank?

I was thinking about pulling to top and looking in for myself before taking it to a dealership.
 

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Couple thing come to mind.. I have seen both, but not mad those mistakes..

To the other fella, cannot install the parts on wrong side, they have different connector and the metal float rod (arm) is different too.

Here is my 2 error I have seen made by others..

1 - the left side sender is easy to get float tangled/ stuck under the cross-over tube off the pump module that goes to right side of tank.. need to look in and verify float is floating before finish install of pump module/lock ring

2 - Knuckle heads not pay attention to how part installed/come off originally -- Nissan/Kia dealer dealer down road put senders in, customer shows at our place, she wants to look at, but not want to pay our diag.. leaves.. shop fellas show up and drop car off, and tech across shop gets it... he finds they broke the spring loaded rod portion of module, and the driver side sender installed to the mount upside down..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Couple thing come to mind.. I have seen both, but not mad those mistakes..

To the other fella, cannot install the parts on wrong side, they have different connector and the metal float rod (arm) is different too.

Here is my 2 error I have seen made by others..

1 - the left side sender is easy to get float tangled/ stuck under the cross-over tube off the pump module that goes to right side of tank.. need to look in and verify float is floating before finish install of pump module/lock ring

2 - Knuckle heads not pay attention to how part installed/come off originally -- Nissan/Kia dealer dealer down road put senders in, customer shows at our place, she wants to look at, but not want to pay our diag.. leaves.. shop fellas show up and drop car off, and tech across shop gets it... he finds they broke the spring loaded rod portion of module, and the driver side sender installed to the mount upside down..
Is it fairly easy to remove the rear drivers side seat, pop the cover and look inside? I wasn't there when he actually removed the seal, the metal cover came off pretty easy tho.

If it is hung up is it as easy as reaching in and moving it or dose the instillation have to be repeated ? Just want to get an idea if I can possibly correct it or if I should suck it up and take it to a shop (2 hours to the Hyundai dealer).
 

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How easy it is will depend in part on how hard he torqued down the lock rings. You'll cuss yourself if you don't have the tool for this handy and he really honked down on them. From the factory, they can be beat loose with a hammer and flat blade, but there's nothing like the tool for making a painless job of it.

If the float is hung up, that should be evident with a flashlight, and all you need to do is release it and set it back in properly.

I'm still wondering how you wound up with broken pins, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How easy it is will depend in part on how hard he torqued down the lock rings. You'll cuss yourself if you don't have the tool for this handy and he really honked down on them. From the factory, they can be beat loose with a hammer and flat blade, but there's nothing like the tool for making a painless job of it.

If the float is hung up, that should be evident with a flashlight, and all you need to do is release it and set it back in properly.

I'm still wondering how you wound up with broken pins, though.
Hopefully he wasn't to hard when he put them back on!

I read on another post this this was a common problem with the Santa Fe? I do recall seeing a post on here of old senders with worn out / broken pins. Mine looked just like them, well one of them did the other was fine but better be safe than sorry, both were replaced.

I'm currently on the road moving to Colorado so once I get there and moved in ill try to solve what's going on. Until then I don't go more than 300 miles without topping the tank off.
 

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I haven't yet seen bent pins, though the problem with dead float assemblies is certainly common enough for 07 and 08.

Look forward to your visit <g>. In what part of the state will you be settling?
 

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I am the guy who the shop made this error. Took it back and they redid the job. No issues since. :)

My neighbors have done the float under tube thing a few times.. I been lucky, I look before setting pump module fully into place and install lock ring
 

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Fuel level sensor replacement

Is it fairly easy to remove the rear drivers side seat, pop the cover and look inside? I wasn't there when he actually removed the seal, the metal cover came off pretty easy tho.

If it is hung up is it as easy as reaching in and moving it or dose the instillation have to be repeated ? Just want to get an idea if I can possibly correct it or if I should suck it up and take it to a shop (2 hours to the Hyundai dealer).
A couple of you guys on this thread sound like you know what you're doing! That's great, cause every parts shop I talk to (of course) wants to sell me the big Airtex Fuel pump/float/sensor ASSEMBLY for about $400.

I think what I need is JUST the sensor part...probably around 30 bucks.

Can I buy that from an aftermarket supplier? Or is the dealer the only source? (anyone got a part number....or two, if there's a different one for left and right?) Thanks for any info.
 

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Just walk into HYundai dealer of choice and purchase a left and right fuel level sensor..

We keep a couple of each on shelf all the time..

Come over to a Buffalo area dealer over the weekend and grab a set if they have them.
 

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Cheapest way out, please!?

Is it fairly easy to remove the rear drivers side seat, pop the cover and look inside? I wasn't there when he actually removed the seal, the metal cover came off pretty easy tho.

If it is hung up is it as easy as reaching in and moving it or dose the instillation have to be repeated ? Just want to get an idea if I can possibly correct it or if I should suck it up and take it to a shop (2 hours to the Hyundai dealer).
Is it fairly easy to remove the rear drivers side seat, pop the cover and look inside? I wasn't there when he actually removed the seal, the metal cover came off pretty easy tho.

If it is hung up is it as easy as reaching in and moving it or dose the instillation have to be repeated ? Just want to get an idea if I can possibly correct it or if I should suck it up and take it to a shop (2 hours to the Hyundai dealer).
A couple of you guys on this thread sound like you know what you're doing! That's great, cause every parts shop I talk to (of course) wants to sell me the big Airtex Fuel pump/float/sensor ASSEMBLY for about $400.

I think what I need is JUST the sensor part...probably around 30 bucks.

Can I buy that from an aftermarket supplier? Or is the dealer the only source? (anyone got a part number....or two, if there's a different one for left and right?) Thanks for any info.
 

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Hi

Just wondering...are the lifetime of these sensors all around 4 years? I keep seeing where you should change both, but being the cheapskate that I am I was thinking of buying/changing one side, then if the problem persisted then do the other. They are separate seats over each sensor so not sure why change both on the first run. If one fuel injector was to fail I wouldn't change out all six, so why do both sensors? I anticipate the answer will be that the lifetime is around 4 years so it's just a matter of time on the second one, but thought I would ask this question to the pros.

Thanks!
 

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Hi

Just wondering...are the lifetime of these sensors all around 4 years? I keep seeing where you should change both, but being the cheapskate that I am I was thinking of buying/changing one side, then if the problem persisted then do the other. They are separate seats over each sensor so not sure why change both on the first run. If one fuel injector was to fail I wouldn't change out all six, so why do both sensors? I anticipate the answer will be that the lifetime is around 4 years so it's just a matter of time on the second one, but thought I would ask this question to the pros.

Thanks!
I thought like you, just replaced only one first and found still not working, and then wasted time to visit my dealer twice
See this picture of two senders. 10 pins at each sender. one has 10 broken pins, the other has 2 broken pins.
just matter of months.



After you replaced both, if your fuel gauge makes an error again,
then you might try to change only one, Main sender(left hand side with the fuel pump),
it's because Sub sender(Right Hand side, black plastic) part is improved with much thicker 4 pins instead of thin 10 pins,
which will probably last longer than Main sender.
I don't know if Hyundai improved the Main sender since I replaced mine.



Also, I have tried to fill my gas tank whenever its level shows 50%,
because the main sender (not improved, thin 10 pins) will wear at the gas tank level of 0%~50%.
if I keep higher than 50%, the thin pins will stay at the upper position and won't wear out if I am correct.
 

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Hi

I keep seeing where you should change both, but being the cheapskate that I am I was thinking of buying/changing one side, then if the problem persisted then do the other. They are separate seats over each sensor so not sure why change both on the first run. >>>>>>> but thought I would ask this question to the pros.

Thanks!
Because Hyundai tech assist told us a couple yr ago to up and replace both after we had to guess as to which one related to code and do it, only to find it not repair the problem.. Manual not worth a hoot.

They issued TSB as to removing and testing, but for all the trouble it is to R&R and test, you just a lot easier to do both and be done with it...

Also, they is wired in series :

Gauge/cluster -------> sender ------> sender -----> Ground
 

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Thanks guys. It looks like I'll be going for both, and be done with it for (hopefully) another 4 years. Thanks for the pictures too, as that helps to explain why they go bad. Its a shame that after all these years that Hyundai wouldn't know how to build a sensor that lasts.

Cheers!
 

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I walk across shop and found 3 of 4 sender still laying in the scrap pile, so I took them apart... all kinds of wipe fingers missing.. both of the driver side unit have fingers completely missing from 1 of the wipes, the one right side sender has a couple finger missing from one of the wipe
 

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Hi guys. I got the job done today, seems fine and the fuel reading is up to a normal level (hopefully not speaking too soon here...knock on wood)...and I am so happy that I bought the tool to unlock the locking ring...my 3 foot breaker bar was still bent a good 2 - 3 inches or more to get it to unlock. I don't think I could have done it without as there was some rust on the ring. All in all it went fine, no fuels spills in any volume to be concerned with, and no explosions. The old drivers side sensor had some obvious issues, but the passenger side was in pretty good shape still but I imagine it's days were numbered anyways.

Today I see where I could have purchased the sensors for about $40-45 less (together), from this place (that ships internationally): Parts Hyundai | Factory OEM Parts Discounted | Online Dealer Oh well...next time I will know where to look for Hyundai parts.

If someone in Calgary has a need to use the ring removal tool I can lend it out for a small fee. Just PM me.

Thanks for everyone's advise and direction.
 
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