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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I got an 07 Limited edition v6 that has about 40,000 miles on it. Until six months ago everything was running fine. I got a check engine light and took it to the dealership. They replaced the Oxygen Sensor and it ran fine for two weeks or so. The check engine light returned so i took it to the shop again. They said it's the O2 sensor once more but this time they're not replacing it. they think the fuel tank is dirty and wood need to flush it for about $600 dollars. I tried to use the fuel cleaner additive and the check engine light went away for a week or so then it's back. Is my only option now is to have the fuel tank flush for this amount?

Thanks in advance,
hiwass
 

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QUOTE (hiwass @ Jun 4 2010, 12:46 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=329687
Hi all,

I got an 07 Limited edition v6 that has about 40,000 miles on it. Until six months ago everything was running fine. I got a check engine light and took it to the dealership. They replaced the Oxygen Sensor and it ran fine for two weeks or so. The check engine light returned so i took it to the shop again. They said it's the O2 sensor once more but this time they're not replacing it. they think the fuel tank is dirty and wood need to flush it for about $600 dollars. I tried to use the fuel cleaner additive and the check engine light went away for a week or so then it's back. Is my only option now is to have the fuel tank flush for this amount?

Thanks in advance,
hiwass
An interesting issue, to be sure. A tiny bit more detail would help put the icing on this, but I fully understand a sense of skepticism.

I'm assuming it was one of the two upstream O2 sensors that was at fault? There are 4 in your vehicle, two for each bank of 3 cylinders, one upstream and one downstream of your catalytic converters.

There are a boatload of unique fault codes related to your sensors, more than a dozen of which are very unlikely to be unrelated to any contamination in your tank. So before we start flipping coins and choosing sides, it would really help to know exactly which code came up the first time, and which code came up the second time, and which of the four sensors failed the 1st and 2nd times.

Further, you said that you said you used an additive and the light went away for a week? Did the dealer reset the fault code? Did you reset the fault code yourself before adding the additive, or did the light just go away of its own accord? Please be a little more detailed in the sequence of events.

Sadly, pulling a gas tank, flushing, and reinstalling is a PITA of a job, and although it seems to me you could just about get a new fuel pump thrown in for $600 (not that you need one, just comparing), the hours will add up if they actually have to do that job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i have the paper work at home so i'll look that up when i'm back. when the check engine light is on, the car idles really rough and my acceleration is not that great. when the light went away, idle is smooth and acceleration is great. this seem to indicate that it's an physical issue instead of computer issue. i'm not very knowledgable with cars at all so i apologize if i left out some info.
 

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QUOTE (hiwass @ Jun 4 2010, 04:19 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=329727
. this seem to indicate that it's an physical issue instead of computer issue. i'm not very knowledgable with cars at all so i apologize if i left out some info.
Not necessarily. There are times when the vehicle has a "limp home" mode that pretty well bypasses all fuel efficiency parameters and simply gets you somewhere safe (home). This is a computer related issue.
 

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Needs the codes...

Exactly as displayed -- P-xxxx , P-xxxx, and so forth for all the codes found... watch the dealer not have provided info on your copy of invoices,, like know what it says there for each job they did..

I dont need descriptions, i know what they are,,, likely dealer is stupid, not following TSB as posted on the service site.. been a handfull of Ox / misfire / throttle logic /and newly released PCM update that supercedes all the previous updates..
 

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QUOTE (wjw @ Jun 4 2010, 02:41 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=329738
Not necessarily. There are times when the vehicle has a "limp home" mode that pretty well bypasses all fuel efficiency parameters and simply gets you somewhere safe (home). This is a computer related issue.
Given the track record of the O2 sensors on these vehicles, I think we need to clarify your statement above for the OP. The "runs rough" is, as you say, likely a condition generated by the computer, but most likely not due to any failure of "computer". It's just working with the problematic information it's being given by the sensors.

As regards the track record I mentioned -- mine was found defective and replaced before the car was turned over to me. I only found out about this when they called after the deal to ask whether I was happy with their service. I told them that I'd just picked up the car a week before and hadn't HAD any service. She said that I had, an O2 sensor was replaced, and told me the date. I advised that the date was before I'd picked it up. Evidently they caught it in pre-inspection.

So yes - brand NEW sensors aren't necessarily good on this vehicle! It's possible that the dealer is unaware of the obvious, or just doesn't want to deal with it without making some extra (and undeserved) $.
 

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QUOTE (canderson @ Jun 4 2010, 08:30 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=329803
The "runs rough" is, as you say, likely a condition generated by the computer, but most likely not due to any failure of "computer". It's just working with the problematic information it's being given by the sensors.

As the age old saying goes with computers ----

Garbage in............................................Garbage out :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
QUOTE (Ed MacArthur @ Jun 5 2010, 10:46 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=329969
You have a 60K bumper-to-bumper warranty. Why should you have to pay anything needed to make this car run correctly?
So the 60K bumper-to-bumper covers them cleaning the fuel tank or whatever that is causing the rough ride? If this is the case and the dealership still refuse to fix it without charge, how do i go about arguing with them?
 

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QUOTE (Ed MacArthur @ Jun 5 2010, 09:46 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=329969
You have a 60K bumper-to-bumper warranty. Why should you have to pay anything needed to make this car run correctly?
IF (and that's a BIG IF) they can demonstrate that the owner pumped some crap gas (or heaven knows what else), they're certainly not liable for that under warranty. A real drag-out argument on the deal would require a fuel analysis.

Meanwhile, I'm still STRONGLY doubting that the fuel is the issue anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
QUOTE (canderson @ Jun 5 2010, 03:32 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=330050
Meanwhile, I'm still STRONGLY doubting that the fuel is the issue anyway.
So what do i tell the dealer when i bring the car in again? Tell them what's wrong (and they can test drive to see that the problem is real) and just ask them to fix it? I'm not very knowledgable with car matters so i fear they would just talk me around in circle and i'll end up paying something to fix the problem.

TIA
 

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QUOTE (hiwass @ Jun 5 2010, 02:45 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=330058
So what do i tell the dealer when i bring the car in again? Tell them what's wrong (and they can test drive to see that the problem is real) and just ask them to fix it? I'm not very knowledgable with car matters so i fear they would just talk me around in circle and i'll end up paying something to fix the problem.

TIA
A couple of us have asked for the specific codes for a reason. Before you go back to the dealer to make your case, we may be able to give you some ammunition. If the "Pxxxx" codes are not noted on your copies of your work orders, you first need to talk to the dealer (over the phone, if possible) and get the SPECIFIC codes that were showing up and be sure you know which SPECIFIC O2 sensor was replaced.

Edit: If your dealer's service department is unable to supply you with the info on the codes they found, their record keeping is for crapola, and I'd be looking for another shop for my repairs anyway.
 

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If you suspect "crap fuel"... your problem is between you and the supplier.. Hyundai did not make the gasoline..

You suspect crap fuel... hop on the interstate just run that load of fuel out as low as you dare, and refill with fresh fuel..

Gasoline cost tooo much just dump it on a guess.. wont cost you anythig to drive out the fuel and refill..


How about some "P" codes, lets see what we playing with.

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QUOTE (canderson @ Jun 5 2010, 05:16 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=330070
If your dealer's service department is unable to supply you with the info on the codes they found, their record keeping is for crapola, and I'd be looking for another shop for my repairs anyway.
Yep, in order for them (Hyundai USA) to process the claim from dealer and get paid, they have to document on the repair order the customer complaint, the cause, and the actual repair... that means they have to document the scan, either HI-SCAN or GDS (preferably GDS, as you can print the DTC search), attach the GDS print to the repair order (more documentaion that vehicle had these codes).. and what they did to effect a repair.. all this helps when the DPSM needs to review claim when Hyundai asks about it, too many bum claims, you can be audited, OOOOps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
As someone suspected they do not have a code from the last time the car was brought it. They ran some ECUM test and that's it. I've scheduled for take it in again on Wednesday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
after calling them 4 times and nag, they gave me these codes. P0171 & P0160, bringing the car back in on Thursday, any insights on these would be great.
 

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QUOTE (hiwass @ Jun 7 2010, 07:03 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=330695
after calling them 4 times and nag, they gave me these codes. P0171 & P0160, bringing the car back in on Thursday, any insights on these would be great.

P-0171 = lean Bank 1

P-0160 = Bank 2 sensor 2 Ox inactivity... (sensor 2 is a catalyst efficiency monitor input to PCM)

Sounds kinda fishy that bank 1 is lean and a Bank 2 sensor code.... I'd rather see the GDS print .
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
On my way to the dealer, the check engine light went off and it's driving fine. they're keeping the car for a day and will run some diagnostics on it.
 

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QUOTE (hiwass @ Jun 9 2010, 08:11 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=331205
On my way to the dealer, the check engine light went off and it's driving fine. they're keeping the car for a day and will run some diagnostics on it.
Good deal. Now that you've asked them for the hard data from the O2 sensors, they probably also know they're not playing with their friends in the street. They now know that you're either savvy or being coached, and that no lame answers are going to be accepted :thumbsup:
 
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