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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, All.

I have 120K miles on my 07 Santa Fe Limited AWD. I have a significant buzz/hum coming from the rear. It varies in pitch with the speed of the vehicle, and the intensity seems to be less when when veering right. I'm guessing that's a bad bearing, which of course means a hub assembly. Prices seem to be all over the place, but I also see that some have a sensor and others do not. I'm assuming that's an ABS sensor, yes?

Does anybody have recommendation for a good aftermarket part, including part number? I hear Timken is good.

thanks for any info.
 

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There's more tear-down involved in replacing a rear wheel bearing on the AWD vs. FWD, but apart from the labor, the bearing/hub assembly less than the fronts. The Timken parts are good, but expensive. I've seen them for around $225, while other manufacturers (e.g. MasterPro) run closer to $75. If you plan on another 120K, you might consider the pricier alternative, but I'd go for the $75 unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
canderson, thanks! I saw the Hyundai TSB on replacing the assembly...doesn't look too bad, as long as I can get to the bolts.

RockAuto has Timken 125-150...there seem to be a lot of choices there. Do you know which one is the OEM-equivalent?
 

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There are a lot of entries, but only a handful for rear for AWD vehicles. The Timken 513256 unit for $124.79 is actually a very good deal on this part, and they do make quality stuff.
 

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hub assembly honestly shouldn't take too long to replace. Make your life easier and spray all of the bolts that are most likely rusted about an hour before with like 4-in-1 then right before you try taking them off hit them with something like locktight freeze removal spray. learned that it is a lot harder without when i did my jeeps hubs...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Manlaw---thanks. I learned that lesson myself several years ago, the hard way!
 

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canderson, thanks. I think I will probably opt for the Timken at that price...What is the REAL difference between a $75 part and the $225 version?

I also noticed that the Timken has a 1-year warranty, the same as the $79 store brand at O'Reilly.
 

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Chuckle - not enough to justify the $225 price in my mind, that's for sure. However, at $125... I guess what we never have asked you is how many MORE miles you plan to put on that Santa Fe. What no one seems to have figured out is whether a typical Santa Fe is somehow hard on wheel bearings, or whether the OEM bearings just aren't that great. While most CM owners never need to replace one, if you read through the threads here, it's frequent enough that I'd call it a 'weak point' on the CM series - not quite as common as dead stabilizer bar ends, for example, but probably up there with fuel sender units. At least with the stabilizer bar ends, we know that you can get much better replacement parts since the materials used in the OEM ends are clearly inferior to what's available. With wheel bearings, it's not so easy to tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
canderson--

So I got the Timken...have been working on this afternoon, using Hyundai TSB 10-SS-004 as a guide. I can't seem to get the lower arm mounting bolt loose (step 7) with air impact, and I currently don't have a breaker bar. Am nervous about using too much torque, as I once twisted the head off a shock bolt on a dodge caravan.

Got the shock bolts off and the trailing arm mounting bolt, but couldn't get the shock off. I'm not sure if it's a rust/oxidation thing, or if there is too much load on the shocks. What's the best way to get this off? The rear end is jacked up with a floor jack, and I have a jack stand supporting the lower arm.

I can't even really see how doing this is going to gain me access to the four mounting bolts. Am I missing something?
 
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