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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

My rear defrost is not working. The display light on the push button switch comes on and I do hear a click when I push the button (I am assuming the solenoid) but no defrost.

I have not checked the fuse box yet but wondering if I hear the click, is it a fuse?

Also, if it could be a fuse where is it located?

Thank you!
 

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The click you are hearing would be the relay. You are going to want and check for voltage at the connector at the rear window. If you have voltage there then it is possible you may have a break in the defroster wire on the window itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks John, I briefly looked in the trunk up under the deck and it must be covered where the connector is.

Can you give me an idea how to get to the connector? What side it's on etc?

Thank you!
 

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See large image...
1.
Turn on the defogger switch and use a voltmeter to measure the voltage of each heater line at the glass center point. If a voltage of approximately 6V is indicated by the voltmeter, the heater line of the rear window is considered satisfactory.
See large image...
2.
If a heater line is burned out between the center point and (+) terminal, the voltmeter will indicate 12V.
See large image...
3.
If a heater line is burned out between the center point and (-) terminal, the voltmeter will indicate 0V.
See large image...
4.
To check for open circuits, slowly move the test lead in the direction that the open circuit seems to exist. Try to find a point where a voltage is generated or changes to 0V. The point where the voltage has changed is the open-circuit point.
See large image...
5.
Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance of each heater line between a terminal and the center of a grid line, and between the same terminal and the center of one adjacent heater line. The section with a broken heater line will have a resistance twice as that in other sections. In the affected section, move the test lead to a position where the resistance sharply changes.
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REPAIR OF BROKEN HEATER LINE
Prepare the following items :
1.
Conductive paint.
2.
Paint thinner.
3.
Masking tape.
4.
Silicone remover.
5.
Using a thin brush :
Wipe the glass adjacent to the broken heater line, clean with silicone remover and attach the masking tape as shown. Shake the conductive paint container well, and apply three coats with a brush at intervals of about 15 minutes apart. Remove the tape and allow sufficient time for drying before applying power. For a better finish, scrape away excess deposits with a knife after the paint has completely dried. (Allow 24 hours).
See large image...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi John, did you mean to post links to the images you mention? I don't see anything I can click on or select.

Thank you again for your help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi John,

I got logged into this site but not sure what I select to get to a tech manual.

Also do the pictures show where the connector is on the window?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi so I have look closely at these instructions and while they give pretty good detail about fuse location and how to test for a bad window, it does not even talk about just checking the connection to the window. Where is the connection at like passenger or driver side? and does trim need to be removed to get to it?
 
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