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I have a '07 Elantra, A/T, 90,000 miles. The automatic transmission was flushed at 60,000 miles. It now has 90,000 miles should I just drain the A/T and replace the oil filter and refill w/ oil?
 

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ELNTRALX, so just change it. Mine 2008 at 28 K miles was drain/refill, at 41 was black the fluid, no the oil : Oil is for Engine, fluid for transmission. So at 41 another shop different than dealer did it again and at 58 K I just resided to drain/refill myself a week before, then open the pan, drain and replace filter . From there every 12 to 15 K I drain/refill . I don't care what people think or say, I just keep the fluid clean and fresh and the filter maintain clean. What people do at 30 or 60 K, I do it every 15 K miles. My car today has 134 K miles.
---- I never have a code, no leak or noise, even after doing the timing belt by myself, valve cover gasket, three front coolant hoses and thermostat .
 

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On this particular trans you could replace the filter, will need the bottom pan removed. The pan is sealed with liquid sealant although you could get an aftermarket gasket. One of my i30 diesels had it's valve body replaced and they used a gasket which wept. I hate leaks, so I resealed it properly with the OEM sealant and did the filter at the same time.

I also flush the contents out via the top cooler line because I only get about 2 litres out via the pan and drain and refill is not very efficient at that % of the total contents which is around 6.6 Litres. Endless opinions on what to do but these also can have valve body issues, I prefer to change early, say 3 years or 60000Km. I drained one of mine at 45K and it was pretty ugly at that distance,
 

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". . . Endless opinions on what to do but these also can have valve body issues . . . "

Thanks for the helpful reply. What liquid sealant should I use? What are valve body issues?

Thanks
 

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anything suited to ATF but I use threebond 1281 or Toyota 1281, I think Hyundai quote a loctite product but the 1281 is fast curing and very strong. If applied correctly it's assured to seal and the trans can be refilled quicker than some of the slower curing products which may nee overnight before being exposed to ATF. I've also used a permatex red for ATF but had to leave it to next day for refill.

I have not experienced teh VB issue but I do have one car that had one replaced around 130000K just beforte I purchased it. I think slow engagements and slipping in 2-3. Mainly due to VB wear but it's not rampant issue but I do read of it and why I prefer shorter change intervals, and use Full Syn ATF.
 

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Thanks again. I'll be doing the drain/filter replacement in a friend's garage.
I might have to use a gasket.
 

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Hyundai Dealer Service Dept told me my '07 Elantra A/T does have a filter but it's not serviceable. The A/T just needs a fluid flush.
 

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Hyundai Dealer Service Dept told me my '07 Elantra A/T does have a filter but it's not serviceable. The A/T just needs a fluid flush.
And you believe in Dealers ? Do you still believe at this time ? Every body lie, even father, mother, children, wife, husband, brothers and sister, teachers, employers, co-workers, supervisors, managers, doctors, nurses , Mechanics, etc, etc ....
Ok. I will tell you a story, I will try to make it short : I believed in my Dealer when they did the 30 k miles services that I did at 28 K, they just drain/refill the Transmission, so at 41 another shop show me the fluid and it was black, so let's make it short : bla,bla,bla.I start watching youtube videos and realize my Car has a trans filter and I learned How to replace it. I went to my Dealer and Nobody there know any thing about Filter inside my Transmission Elantra 2008. I have to tell those stupid people about the Youtube video and they went right away to see it and Learn, ja,ja,aj,.. They wanted $ 350 to do a flush and replace filter and I say NO WAY. The Flash back damage the Transmission, never do it.
---- Finally I bough the filter right there in the dealer for $ 25.00, then I found it on E-bay and Amazon, so. I bough 12 quarters of Fluid and did my Job Perfectly when car had 51 K Miles. From there I drain/refill every 12-15 K miles, keeping fluid clean and filter fresh .. Car has today 134 K miles.
 

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"Finally I bought the filter right there in the dealer for $ 25.00, then I found it on E-bay and Amazon, so. I bought 12 quarters of Fluid and did my Job Perfectly when car had 51 K Miles. "
You're right. Makes a lot of sense. Where did you buy the gasket? I'll be using a friend's lift in his commercial garage. How much time did the whole procedure take?
 

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ELNTRALX, so just change it. Mine 2008 at 28 K miles was drain/refill, at 41 was black the fluid, no the oil : Oil is for Engine, fluid for transmission. So at 41 another shop different than dealer did it again and at 58 K I just resided to drain/refill myself a week before, then open the pan, drain and replace filter . From there every 12 to 15 K I drain/refill . I don't care what people think or say, I just keep the fluid clean and fresh and the filter maintain clean. What people do at 30 or 60 K, I do it every 15 K miles. My car today has 134 K miles.
---- I never have a code, no leak or noise, even after doing the timing belt by myself, valve cover gasket, three front coolant hoses and thermostat .
Hi,

Do you know what the torque specs are for the filter and the pan bolts?
 

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[QUOTE="nedradenovic, post: 5994527 : for 3 bolt filter:
Install the oil filter.
Tightening torque :5~7Nm(0.5~0.7kgf.m, 4~5lb-ft)
and the pan bolts :
Tightening torque :10~12Nm(1.0~1.2kgf.m, 7~8lb-ft)
I hope that help
 

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"Finally I bought the filter right there in the dealer for $ 25.00, then I found it on E-bay and Amazon, so. I bought 12 quarters of Fluid and did my Job Perfectly when car had 51 K Miles. "
You're right. Makes a lot of sense. Where did you buy the gasket? I'll be using a friend's lift in his commercial garage. How much time did the whole procedure take?
--- I bough it in the dealer :
Continue to apply liquid gasket at application points at the oil pan with Ø0.098in(2.5mm) thickness.
Liquid gasket Part name : Threebond 1281B
I had time enough so I added, put the bolts, tight hands, give them 3 hours then torque to 7-8 ft lb and give them 24 hours to add fluid. That job was done at 58 k miles, today has 134200 miles dry like a bone, no leak at all. After this I keep doing drain/refill every 15 k miles, that way I keep the fluid clean and fresh and filter clean.
--- When I saw the old filter it was relatively clean, so I think what I'm doing maybe at 200K I replace it again.
 
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