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Does anyone know what could cause the ABS, ESC & low batt lights to come on and the radio to stop functioning after putting a new battery in an Azera? (Radio's completely off, no code or error messages.) I tried pulling the power connector in the fuse box to reset, but no joy. The alternator volts look good, but the car overheated when left idling in an attempt to fully charge the battery. After that it was back to the non-starting click-click-click-click-click it had with the old battery. The new battery is a Motorcraft (Ford) 650 amps... do Azeras have any special battery requirements? Any suggestions on how to diagnose / remedy these symptoms? (Note: I do get a single beep & flash when locking the doors with the remote.)
<blockquote>Update 1: Tried jump charging from the handy V8 Northstar in our other car. Got the Azera to start, but never got the low-battery light to go off, even with the cables still attached after cranking quite a while. Got 3 starts after detaching cables, 5 minutes running then 5 minutes sitting between each attempt. It was back to click-click-click on the 4th attempt. :-(</blockquote>
<blockquote>Update 2: 2nd attempt at jumping; now it will start, but immediately dies when the jumper cables are removed. Continues to nearly overheat within about 8 minutes of starting. </blockquote>
Here's the sequential backstory for people interested in details...
I just purchased this `07 Azera Limited yesterday. It's my first Hyundai. On the second test drive at the dealer, the car wouldn't start, with the obvious clicking of a dead battery. They charged it & it started once, but never twice, so I had them install a brand new battery before buying the car. However, since putting the new battery in, the low battery light is on, the radio is dead & dark, and a few other warning lights are on (ESC, ABS). Despite that, the car succeeded in starting several times with the new battery, so I agreed to bring it back Monday when mechanics will be in. The sales manager suspects an OBDC-II code needs to be reset after changing the battery.
On the way home, I stopped at an AutoZone for a second opinion on the alternator & battery health. The alt was putting out plenty of voltage, and the new battery was alive/good but only weakly charged. The tech there thought OBCD codes had nothing to do with it; he thought the car was programmed to disable certain systems when the battery had a low charge, and suggested running the car for a few hours to juice the battery up a bit. (This didn't jive with the fact that the radio worked & there were no warning lights in the hour before previous battery died, but whatever.) I drove for an hour or so, then tried idling the car to charge the battery. After 30 minutes of idling, the thing overheated & vented quite a bit of coolant.
With both batteries, every time the car failed to start, it had been starting less than an hour before. Key was out, neither the hood nor any doors were left open, headlights were on "auto" & not illuminated, car was dark on the inside. The warning lights have never gone off since installing the new battery.
Am I going to need a portable battery charger in the trunk for this thing? Thanks for any insights or remedies! I expect the used car dealer (non-Hyundai) to make this right, but otherwise will post their name to help others avoid a similar situation.
<blockquote>Update 1: Tried jump charging from the handy V8 Northstar in our other car. Got the Azera to start, but never got the low-battery light to go off, even with the cables still attached after cranking quite a while. Got 3 starts after detaching cables, 5 minutes running then 5 minutes sitting between each attempt. It was back to click-click-click on the 4th attempt. :-(</blockquote>
<blockquote>Update 2: 2nd attempt at jumping; now it will start, but immediately dies when the jumper cables are removed. Continues to nearly overheat within about 8 minutes of starting. </blockquote>
Here's the sequential backstory for people interested in details...
I just purchased this `07 Azera Limited yesterday. It's my first Hyundai. On the second test drive at the dealer, the car wouldn't start, with the obvious clicking of a dead battery. They charged it & it started once, but never twice, so I had them install a brand new battery before buying the car. However, since putting the new battery in, the low battery light is on, the radio is dead & dark, and a few other warning lights are on (ESC, ABS). Despite that, the car succeeded in starting several times with the new battery, so I agreed to bring it back Monday when mechanics will be in. The sales manager suspects an OBDC-II code needs to be reset after changing the battery.
On the way home, I stopped at an AutoZone for a second opinion on the alternator & battery health. The alt was putting out plenty of voltage, and the new battery was alive/good but only weakly charged. The tech there thought OBCD codes had nothing to do with it; he thought the car was programmed to disable certain systems when the battery had a low charge, and suggested running the car for a few hours to juice the battery up a bit. (This didn't jive with the fact that the radio worked & there were no warning lights in the hour before previous battery died, but whatever.) I drove for an hour or so, then tried idling the car to charge the battery. After 30 minutes of idling, the thing overheated & vented quite a bit of coolant.
With both batteries, every time the car failed to start, it had been starting less than an hour before. Key was out, neither the hood nor any doors were left open, headlights were on "auto" & not illuminated, car was dark on the inside. The warning lights have never gone off since installing the new battery.
Am I going to need a portable battery charger in the trunk for this thing? Thanks for any insights or remedies! I expect the used car dealer (non-Hyundai) to make this right, but otherwise will post their name to help others avoid a similar situation.
