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Really appreciate your help Chris. It being copper I can braze any holes. My mobile mechanic was reluctant to try and remove it as he feared it may break up when flexing it off not knowing what it is made of.
It won't break easily. There are just 4 nuts to remove and it slots right out. Try not damage existing gaskets in case you need to use them again. They are metal gaskets.
 

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The part is expensive ($270)
From a dealer yes, online No, If you can wait. I'll PM you a site I used recently sent via DHL travelled over Easter and arrived within a week on easter monday!

About $20 USD, freight will cost more than the part but hundreds less than the local thieves around $50-60 USD total I'd expect. The other thing that can happen too with those coolers is they can fail internally and start to put coolant through the combustion process.

should be straight forward to get off and they have metal gaskets. Fitted to D4EA and EB motors so Sonata, Santa fe, Grandeur, Sportage

458851


458850
 

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Thanks again for all the info. Strange, mine does not have that apron bit on the flange.
Also thanks for confirmation it can come straight off without removing the cooler bit.

That that the gaskets are metal makes me really wonder if it is whistling through a gap and why it goes away when the flange and gasket heats up.
The attached pic only looks untidy because I wrapped it in play clay to prove if it might have a leak, though did nothing to stop the high frequency scream.
I'm in Australia.
458853
 

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Likely an updated part as I'd say it's a heat shield with the oil filter in close proximity. Also notice the different filter heights. My image of the motor is a D4EA which would have a different block height marginally with the extra capacity for the 2.2 or maybe your filter maybe smaller. There is an older filter that screws on but is smaller in capacity that was fitted to the early D4EA

458854
458855
 

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Thanks again for all the info. Strange, mine does not have that apron bit on the flange.
Also thanks for confirmation it can come straight off without removing the cooler bit.

That that the gaskets are metal makes me really wonder if it is whistling through a gap and why it goes away when the flange and gasket heats up.
The attached pic only looks untidy because I wrapped it in play clay to prove if it might have a leak, though did nothing to stop the high frequency scream.
I'm in Australia. View attachment 458853
To test where the leak is coming from around this area, do the following: Make sure the car is completely cold (i.e. after a couple of hours standing). Then start the engine, and use your naked hand to feel all around this area. You will feel the air pressure from any leak, ans the area it is coming from. You only have around 30-60 seconds or so before it gets too hot to the touch.
 

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Likely an updated part as I'd say it's a heat shield with the oil filter in close proximity. Also notice the different filter heights. My image of the motor is a D4EA which would have a different block height marginally with the extra capacity for the 2.2 or maybe your filter maybe smaller.
Does make sense. Been thinking and hope the cooler part isn't the problem and being fooled into thinking it is the elbow part. Mechanic really thinks it has a hole in the elbow though I lean towards it being a gasket leak.
 

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To test where the leak is coming from around this area, do the following: Make sure the car is completely cold (i.e. after a couple of hours standing). Then start the engine, and use your naked hand to feel all around this area. You will feel the air pressure from any leak, ans the area it is coming from. You only have around 30-60 seconds or so before it gets too hot to the touch.
I shall try but I can barely get my hand in the area and certainly not everywhere but worth a try, also need to get someone to depress the accelerator pedal too.
 

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Cleaned the engine and after sorting the oil leak from the intercooler hose, now found oil seepage from sump pan, hope the pan is easy to remove for a new gasket.
 

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Guessing you mean like silicone! Just hoping it's just a matter of unbolting it after oil removal and no other drama.
 

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Loctite 5900 is mentioned but Permatex Ultra grey should go ok. How bad is it? Is it definitely the sump? It's a one piece sump so it should be ok to remove though I would check that you have clearance to remove and refit with the subframe in place. I don't remember now what it's like under there but I've had surprises like that before removing trans covers and sumps on my ix35.

Bolts appear to be all external maybe have a look around the gearbox and se what bolts may be involved there potentially.
 

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Thank you Gerard, there may be something leaking higher as well under the starter motor but just can't see. Think I need a backlit inspection mirror, I will get some more degreaser and clean the area again. Perhaps I missed some area with the degreasing already done.
 

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I've had oil leak from the oil cooler under the filter, the electronic throttle flap and the air intake hose at the turbo if it's loose.
 

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My leaks are exclusively at the front of the engine under the intercooler to engine hose. That hose was just one apparently. There was oil from that point down but now clean and dry for the upper half of the engine after replacing it.
 

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Hi,
I am Fred from Dar Es Salaam, East AFRICA, I own 2007 Tucson and it is 150K km now, I replaced the turbo 9 months ago, It was bought from a dealer in Soul, it was refabricated. Unfortunately last week the car failed to accelerate completely and was producing much white smoke. the technician opened the engine to find out the turbo was again defectives.
it is very difficult to find these Tucson - CRDi diesel parts in East Africa.
Is there any other turbo from other cars which fixed instead of this Tucson turbo charger?
Any one please, assist I am failing to get this solution for this car?
 

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Hi I have very similar noise on mine .Did you ever get to the bottom of if this part was the problem?
Not yet being in lockdown. I now have the elbow part from South Korea. Cost double it's price in UPS postage as their normal covid mail service doesn't reach Australia (still ended up half the price from a dealer) My issue at the moment is that I can't get a socket to the nuts that hold it in place, too obstructed. My gut feeling is a gasket gap as all there is to seal the pipe flange is a s/s gasket, so any metal deformity can't be sealed, just my guess atm.
 
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