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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all (from Australia) :)

First time posting on this forum which I came across when looking for feedback on replacing the Turbocharger on my '07 2.2L CRDI.

Vehicle has done 230k km's and I am the second owner. 1st owner had it serviced meticulously on time by the dealer for 8 years until I bought it in '15.

Have been noticing sluggishness and increase in fuel consumption for the last few months which didn't improve after oil and filter changes. Also ran some Lucas upper cylinder lubricant through on last fill up to see if that would help fuel consumption issue.

I've also had intermittent issues with the non-start issue that I've read a few people have had issues with (engine firing but not turning over) but as it hadn't happened for a while I hadn't gotten to the bottom of that problem...

Was travelling for work last week, few km's in I noticed oil light was on. Strange as I'd only changed it a few 100 km's ago. Had a look, oil level is fine. Thought it must've been faulty sensor. I had gone about 100 km when I reached a fair size hill, the motor lost all power and was blowing plumes of black smoke from the exhaust. Had a poke around under the bonnet (no tools), couldn't see anything obvious so I let it cool down for an hour or so and started her up again. Still plumes of black smoke and no power. Got it towed back home, as Hyundai dealer was closed. Was able to limp it about 5 or so km's from my place to the dealer the next day.

Showing no error codes at the dealer but when they investigated further found that the turbo has seized and is now cactus.

Still waiting for them to get back to me with a price for a replacement. Technician indicated it could be upwards 4k fitted. Have called a local turbo specialist and they can do complete replacement for about 2k. Obviously, not keen to outlay that much $$$. Both are the Mitsubishi turbocharges which my research leads me to believe is what was fitted by Hyundai (I believe the correct term is OEM??).

In the meantime, I've been looking into sourcing and installing a turbo myself. I can get a Mitsubishi and corresponding gasket kit locally for just over $1600 OR I have found 'knock-offs' on eBay which can be delivered to my home for $600.

Questions I have...

- Anyone have any experience with the cheaper 'no name' Turbocharges? Can you offer me any feedback? Is it worth paying nearly 3 x more for the Mitsubishi?
- I consider myself pretty handy, though not an engine guru (I'm a boilermaker by trade). Is the turbo replacement manageable for sensible, logical handy-men?
- Ideas as to what has caused the turbo to blow like this? After reading other threads I'm going to clean the EGR system. Anything else I should check out while I'm at it?

Any feedback or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Darren
 

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Hey mate.. shoot me a message with your phone number. Might be able to help with some information.. i had a similar incident (now resolved) cheers.. terry

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tried to send a PM but don't think it went through (something about 5 posts before I can). Phone number is 0458 214 274.

Thanks mate, really appreciate it.
 

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Easy as mate.. will send you a txt/call tomorrow. I had the same scenario and might be able to assist..
No doubt any of the other forum members might be able to chime in and help as well..

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Hello kitesurfer, i had a similar problem today. Could you maybe give me an help too?
I cant really afford 4k :surprise: to fix the turbo...

Thank you so much,

Leo
 

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Hi all (from Australia) :)

First time posting on this forum which I came across when looking for feedback on replacing the Turbocharger on my '07 2.2L CRDI.

Vehicle has done 230k km's and I am the second owner. 1st owner had it serviced meticulously on time by the dealer for 8 years until I bought it in '15.

Have been noticing sluggishness and increase in fuel consumption for the last few months which didn't improve after oil and filter changes. Also ran some Lucas upper cylinder lubricant through on last fill up to see if that would help fuel consumption issue.

I've also had intermittent issues with the non-start issue that I've read a few people have had issues with (engine firing but not turning over) but as it hadn't happened for a while I hadn't gotten to the bottom of that problem...

Was travelling for work last week, few km's in I noticed oil light was on. Strange as I'd only changed it a few 100 km's ago. Had a look, oil level is fine. Thought it must've been faulty sensor. I had gone about 100 km when I reached a fair size hill, the motor lost all power and was blowing plumes of black smoke from the exhaust. Had a poke around under the bonnet (no tools), couldn't see anything obvious so I let it cool down for an hour or so and started her up again. Still plumes of black smoke and no power. Got it towed back home, as Hyundai dealer was closed. Was able to limp it about 5 or so km's from my place to the dealer the next day.

Showing no error codes at the dealer but when they investigated further found that the turbo has seized and is now cactus.

Still waiting for them to get back to me with a price for a replacement. Technician indicated it could be upwards 4k fitted. Have called a local turbo specialist and they can do complete replacement for about 2k. Obviously, not keen to outlay that much $$$. Both are the Mitsubishi turbocharges which my research leads me to believe is what was fitted by Hyundai (I believe the correct term is OEM??).

In the meantime, I've been looking into sourcing and installing a turbo myself. I can get a Mitsubishi and corresponding gasket kit locally for just over $1600 OR I have found 'knock-offs' on eBay which can be delivered to my home for $600.

Questions I have...

- Anyone have any experience with the cheaper 'no name' Turbocharges? Can you offer me any feedback? Is it worth paying nearly 3 x more for the Mitsubishi?
- I consider myself pretty handy, though not an engine guru (I'm a boilermaker by trade). Is the turbo replacement manageable for sensible, logical handy-men?
- Ideas as to what has caused the turbo to blow like this? After reading other threads I'm going to clean the EGR system. Anything else I should check out while I'm at it?

Any feedback or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Darren
I found a turbo on ebay for only $450, i got the same model of SF and I'm also located in AU mate.
 

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Hi ossie_santa,
How has the turbo search gone? Have a '06 2.2 crdi myself (NZ) and have had some oil consumption for a while which I have isolated to the turbo (remove the post intercooler hose and oil drips out) so figuring worn turbo bearings?! It runs perfectly fine (bit of black smoke if you put your foot in it (accelerator) but given its at 285k km's its likely worn injector) but always a good idea to prepare ahead before it toasts itself!

With regard to your engine light problem, would be surprised if that was related to the turbo? I had a similar experience some time ago where the light started toi flicker on so I crept home. Long story short, dropped the sump and found the pump pickup mesh virtually blocked with soot carbon presumably from the egr system or such(?). Anyway a removal and blow out of the mesh seemed to rectify.

May or may not relate but be interested to see how you are getting on.

Cheers,
Graham
 

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hi mates, i bought the same model 07 santa fe 2.2 but i can't find where the turbo is located. can you please help me locate it, thanks in advance.
 

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hi scottie, thank you so much for this info anyway I already found my turbo and based on my diagnosis it needs a rebuild kit coz a bit of oil is leaking from it. Thanks
 

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hi scottie, i have another question. when removing the turbo does it needs to be remove the exhaust manifold at the same time? thanks
 

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Geeze i wish threads like this didn't come to a sudden end. Trying to understand how the turbo is removed/replaced on same 2.2 diesel.
 

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Geeze i wish threads like this didn't come to a sudden end. Trying to understand how the turbo is removed/replaced on same 2.2 diesel.
There is one particular bolt/nut on the exhaust manifold that is particularly difficult to get to (located between the turbo and the manifold). Need the right tools. I believe the manifold needs to come off due to general accessibility.

I think you would be able to tackle this.
 

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Thanks Chris. I have a mechanic looking into this right now and he thinks my turbo is okay but there is a flanged flexi elbow he believes giving a high frequency exhaust leak. It mainly happens from a cold start and very loud. The part is expensive ($270) so need to verify somehow it is the issue and not a red herring. The elbow circled in pic.
458845
458846
 

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Thanks Chris. I have a mechanic looking into this right now and he thinks my turbo is okay but there is a flanged flexi elbow he believes giving a high frequency exhaust leak. It mainly happens from a cold start and very loud. The part is expensive ($270) so need to verify somehow it is the issue and not a red herring. The elbow circled in pic. View attachment 458845 View attachment 458846
That is your EGR Cooler. It's about an hour to two hours work to replace that part. That horizonal tube is the cooler which has engine coolant flowing through it. The exhaust gasses pass through thin tubes within the cooler (exchanging heat) and then go through that copper J downpipe back into the Engine's inlet manifold.

If you have recently had work done on the car, it is possible that this downpipe wasn't tightened correctly, or possibly you need new gaskets. I have had a similar situation occur when working on that particular item myself when exhaust gasses were leaking past the gasket/flange. This creates a vacuum leak, which it turn causes poor idling and poor fuel economy.

This should be a simple fix to be honest. And not that costly.
 

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Is the downpipe you refer to the red circled elbow in my pic. Apparently that elbow is the part I need to replace but suspect the EGR cooler needs removal to do it?
 

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Also is that elbow copper and if has hole can it be brazed? It actually is silver in colour, a bit like stainless steel.
 

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Also is that elbow copper and if has hole can it be brazed? It actually is silver in colour, a bit like stainless steel.
Is the downpipe you refer to the red circled elbow in my pic. Apparently that elbow is the part I need to replace but suspect the EGR cooler needs removal to do it?
It's the same yes. No you don't need to remove egr cooler to remove the J downpipe. What is crucial is reassembling so that there aren't vacuum leaks. You should be able to seal up any gaps if there are cracks in the J pipe.
 

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Really appreciate your help Chris. It being copper I can braze any holes. My mobile mechanic was reluctant to try and remove it as he feared it may break up when flexing it off not knowing what it is made of.
 
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