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Discussion Starter #1
My brother has a 2.7 FWD. When cold, sometimes (increasing occurring more often) there is a whine like a stuck motor from the rear. He keys off, waits 7-10 seconds keys on and it will start. He also says sometimes it takes more than one key off/key on process to get it to start.

Seems like to me its a FP going bad. He wants to gamble in just replacing the assembly. Looks similar to other FP assemblies I have replaced before. However my one question is what is the trick to depressurizing the system?

When I did my Maxima eons ago there was a process of pulling fuse or something and trying to start. But I want to make sure I do it right vesus hosing myself with fuel.
 

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Steps to relieve fuel pressure:

1 Remove the gas cap to release any pressure in the fuel tank.

2 Remove the rear seat cushion.

3 Remove the fuel pump/sending unit floor service hole cover.

4 Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector (see picture).

5 Start the engine and allow it to run until it stops, then turn the ignition key to OFF.

6 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal before working on the fuel system.

7 The fuel system pressure is now relieved, and you can now safely open fuel line fittings anywhere in the system. But even though there is no longer any pressure in the system, it’s still a good idea to wrap a shop rag around a fitting before opening it to soak up any fuel that leaks out.

That's the steps as listed by the Haynes manual. I used them to successfully depressurize my fuel system.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
In the event that he would like to try something cheaper first, replace the ECT (engine coolant temperature sensor).
Would that be a item that would cause the fuel pump to whine and the motor to not crank? If so, doesn't look hard to replace.

And thanks for the feedback!
 

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Would that be a item that would cause the fuel pump to whine and the motor to not crank? If so, doesn't look hard to replace.

And thanks for the feedback!
It's listed along with cold-start problems, but with the fuel pump whining then it's probably time to replace the fuel pump. (But the ECT definitely looks a lot easier to replace on the 3.5 than it was on my 2.7. It's not difficult, but mine was on sideways so I had to drain a lot of coolant. You might not have to drain as much with it on top in the 3.5.)

But just so there's no confusion: it's cranking (turning over) but not starting, right?

(Also, I wouldn't dread the fuel pump replacement. It's pretty cut and dry. It's a good idea to replace the filter with it.)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's listed along with cold-start problems, but with the fuel pump whining then it's probably time to replace the fuel pump. (But the ECT definitely looks a lot easier to replace on the 3.5 than it was on my 2.7. It's not difficult, but mine was on sideways so I had to drain a lot of coolant. You might not have to drain as much with it on top in the 3.5.)

But just so there's no confusion: it's cranking (turning over) but not starting, right?

(Also, I wouldn't dread the fuel pump replacement. It's pretty cut and dry. It's a good idea to replace the filter with it.)
When the symptom exists, that is correct. The whine happens from the back...it turns and turns but never catches. You "key off", wait about seven to ten seconds and then key on and usually it wills start the second time. Sometimes you need to do it a third time.

These were the two assemblies I was looking at. Id rather replace the entire assembly versus removing old and brittle plastic parts trying to get at the motor. From what I can tell its the whole thing and included the strainer and filters. I think.

Fuel Pump Assembly:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3153255&cc=1432771&jsn=362

Secondary cheap:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4362495&cc=1432771&jsn=9
 

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You probably don't need to replace the entire module. The module on my 2003 was in great shape when I replaced the fuel pump in 2017 at 200,000 miles. But if you do I will say the one you listed as cheaper seems to have the better fuel pump (allows a free-flow rate of up to 50 gph, compared to 36 gph on the other).
 

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You probably don't need to replace the entire module. The module on my 2003 was in great shape when I replaced the fuel pump in 2017 at 200,000 miles. But if you do I will say the one you listed as cheaper seems to have the better fuel pump (allows a free-flow rate of up to 50 gph, compared to 36 gph on the other).
Thanks for the input; its appreciated.
 
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