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Discussion Starter #1
I have no instruments tack, speedo,gas,temp,odometer. No ac, no cruise control. No power sunroof. And i think its not charging. It left me stranded 5hrs from home. It all started with no low beam headlights. I checked the fuses and everything was ok. So i changed the high and low headlight relays around since they were exactly the same to see if that would fix my low beam problem. I wiggled the dimmer switch then smelled smoke around the bcm. And it pops the 10amp cluster fuse immediately as i replace and turn the key on. Can someone please help me? Im on the road working, and i can catch a ride to work every day, but i have a 5hr drive when i get laid off. Another thing i tested the battery with a multimeter it showed 11.89 vdc. But it wont run very far like that and dies.

Thanks alot

Lee
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Another thing i disconnected the dimmer switch. Then put a new fuse in and turned the key on and it popped immediately again. So kinda ruled out the dimmer switch.
 

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Hello again. Sorry to hear your having more electrical problems with your Coupe.

I'd suggest removing the alternator excitation resistor as a simple first step to diagnosing your fault. It's located on the back of the dashboard fusebox/BCM...see below :

 

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I recall an issue where the heavier guage wires going to that fuse box would deteriorate/melt and short. usually very easy to see.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I unplugged the headlight dimmer switch and pulled the hi and lo relays under the hood. Disconnected my radio to make sure i didnt have the pink/black illumination wired connected. And unplugged the interior cluster dimmer switch. Unplugged the alternator. I then put a new 10amp fuse in the f17 slot/ cluster. Fired it up everything worked tac, gas etc. Then it popped. Seen smoke comming up outta the back of the bcm. So i think i need another one. Got over a year on that one for a 5 dollar junk yard find. Is there a better manufacturer bcm for this car? Or does someone on the forum rebuild with better stuff inside?

Thanks alot,

Lee
 

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I unplugged the headlight dimmer switch and pulled the hi and lo relays under the hood. Disconnected my radio to make sure i didnt have the pink/black illumination wired connected. And unplugged the interior cluster dimmer switch. Unplugged the alternator. I then put a new 10amp fuse in the f17 slot/ cluster. Fired it up everything worked tac, gas etc. Then it popped. Seen smoke comming up outta the back of the bcm.
Did you remove the alternator excitation resistor? Is the short still present with it removed?

Smoke coming from the BCM doesn't necessarily mean that's where the problem lies, although smoke does suggest the BCM is being damaged. You really need to trace the cause of the short circuit and repair it before you can decide whether you need to replace the BCM or not. If you just replace it without finding the root cause of the problem you'll just end up damaging the replacement BCM too.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh ok, i didnt start it with it removed or even turn the key on. Im sorry guess i didnt understand. I will remove it, replace the cluster fuse and turn the key on. I dont get off work till 6am. Try it then. Thank you Autospark
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I pulled the alternator excitation resistor put the fuse in. Turned the key on and it popped f17. Same problem.
 

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OK, the next thing to try is disconnect the connector that is on the load side of the fuse. That's the connector below and to the left of the excitation resistor, highlighted on the photo below. If the fuse still blows with the connector unplugged and the excitation resistor removed that means the short is internal within the fusebox/BCM.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
I had the excitation resistor unplugged and that connector unplugged and it still popped. So i guess that means its inside the bcm?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Who would you recommend to get a rebuilt bcm off of? With the better parts of course. I seen a martins bcm repair on ebay/ dawitchdoctor. He said 115.00 shipped.
 

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I had the excitation resistor unplugged and that connector unplugged and it still popped. So i guess that means its inside the bcm?
Yeah, it would appear so.

Who would you recommend to get a rebuilt bcm off of?
Sorry I can't help you with that. The last one I came across that was faulty I repaired myself.

The other option is to just bypass the fusebox/BCM. You could fit an inline fuse to the main ignition input to the BCM, disconnect the wires at the output and connect them to the other side of the fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The rebuilt bcm came to the motel today. Cars running great,charging, and everything seems to work. He wrote the same part number on the new bcm. It looks exactly the same. Hopefully those associated problems are over with.

Thank you again Autospark! I can drive back home now.

Lee
 

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Hi Lee, great to hear your mobile again.
Did they take your old unit as a part exchange against the remanufactured one or did they think it was beyond repair?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No, he did not. He didn't say if he thought it was repairable. But the one that came with the car originally i bet definitely is. They may both be? I have them.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If you want them Autospark i will ship them to you. Its worth all the help you been to me. Just let me know. Im outta town working and should be home maybe in a few weeks.
 
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