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I reversed down the driveway, then back up. Terminal 6 remained ~2.6V.

#14 on the ODB connector read: 1.8V without the key and ~2.93V with the key turned on
I was hoping the signal voltage on the OBD connector would be much higher than that. I've advised quite a few folk on the forum who have had speed sensor problems and the signal voltage is normally close to 12V. I'm surprised yours is so. But the speedo is working, I assume, so is this a fault or not? I'm not sure now to be honest. It certainly isn't normal based on my previous experience. But I don't know if it is the cause of the cruise control failure.

Do you own an OBD scan tool? It might be worth checking to see if there are any speed sensor trouble codes logged in the engine ECU. Maybe that will give us a clue.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Do you own an OBD scan tool? It might be worth checking to see if there are any speed sensor trouble codes logged in the engine ECU. Maybe that will give us a clue.
speedometer works fine

I have a crappy ODB tool I got from amazon that connects to my phone via an app called OBD Fusion. It tells me there are no stored codes, no idea how accurate that is.
 

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OK, what to do next?

If we assume the speed signal is OK for now, since the speedo is working, we should maybe try to eliminate the brake pedal voltage you got on terminal 5. As I said, I would expect the voltage on terminal 5 to be 0V when the brake pedal is released. But your getting over 1V. Could the cruise control module perhaps be taking that voltage to mean the brake pedal is being pressed which would prevent it from activating speed hold?

What I think I would do as a quick and dirty way to confirm that is just cut the wire. Cutting the wire will remove that input voltage from the cruise control module. If it is now able to 'set' you know that's your problem. You'd just need to be extra careful during test drive because hitting the brake might not cancel speed hold with the wire cut. You'd maybe have to use the 'cancel' button or switch the cruise control off. So don't be driving too close to the car in front 😮

So you could give that a go if you want. Remove the plastic cover from the back of the cruise control harness connector to expose where the wires enter. Locate the wire leading to terminal 5 and cut it an inch or two back from the connector so that there is enough wire left attached to the connector to allow you to rejoin the wire later.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
OK, what to do next?
I went and rented a better OBD tool and there was no freeze frame or any codes of any kind stored.

Before I cut a wire, can I perhaps adjust/test the brake light switch or test the brake light switch? Is that what could be sending a small amount of voltage to terminal 5?

EDIT:
also.. if I cut #5, and that is the problem, what is the fix?
 

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Before I cut a wire, can I test perhaps adjust the brake light switch or test the brake light switch? Is that what could be sending a small amount of voltage to terminal 5?
What I would do before adjusting anything is just unplug the switch and see what happens to the voltage on terminal 5. If you still get 1V with the switch disconnected it's obviously not a switch issue.

mac1990 said:
also.. if I cut #5, and that is the problem, what is the fix?
I don't know yet to be honest. I'll need to have a wee think about that once we confirm it's something that needs fixing.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

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Discussion Starter #26
What I would do before adjusting anything is just unplug the switch and see what happens to the voltage on terminal 5. If you still get 1V with the switch disconnected it's obviously not a switch issue.
Unplugging it gave the same voltage.
 

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Do you have LED brake light bulbs? I'm not sure if the bulbs provide a ground reference
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Do you have LED brake light bulbs? I'm not sure if the bulbs provide a ground reference
My brake light and reverse lights are LED

The reverse lights are very touchy, they will not work unless they are in a certain way. Do the reverse lights have any bearing on cruise control?
 

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You could try switching to standard lights for the brake lights for a test.
I don't believe the reverse lights affect the cruise control
 

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You could try switching to standard lights for the brake lights for a test
Or, if you don't have standard (incandescent) bulbs handy, you could just remove the LED brake light bulbs and use the voltmeter to see if that has any effect on the voltage on terminal 5 of the cruise module.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #31
You could try switching to standard lights for the brake lights for a test.
I don't believe the reverse lights affect the cruise control
Or, if you don't have standard (incandescent) bulbs handy, you could just remove the LED brake light bulbs and use the voltmeter to see if that has any effect on the voltage on terminal 5 of the cruise module.
I removed the brake lights, tested, same results on #6 & #5

I removed the reverse lights, tested, same results on #6 & #5
 

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Removed and installed standard bulbs?
 
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See this post, I just installed LED tail light bulbs in my 2012 Sonata, and it killed the cruise control when the headlights are on.
 
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