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Discussion Starter #1
05 Sonata 2.7L

My cruise control activates via a button on the dash, left of the steering wheel. When I press said button the LED green light on the button turns on. After turning it on, I can normally control my cruise via 3 buttons on my steering wheel(resume/set/cancel), however, that is where the problem starts. When pressing the set button, "cruise" does not display on the instrument cluster.

Brake lights work
All fuses checked and work
Replaced the brake light switch on the brake pedal
Tested the 3 switches on the steering wheel to see if pressing the buttons resulted in a change using a multimeter

I am getting pissed. I would greatly appreciate any insight.
 

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2001 Sonata GLS 2.5L 2007 Santa Fe 3.3L 2013 Veloster Manual NA 1.6L
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I have no solution but my wife's 2013 Veloster has the same problem. Hyundai's weak spots seem to be switches and paint.
 

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You should check for stored codes first, but another thing that stops the cruise control is the transmission range switch.
My Saturn had a bad one, which didn't light the CEL, but prevented the cruise from working.
I don't know about the clock spring in the column, whether the individual wires all go through it, or just a couple, but it could be the problem, unless you checked the buttons from below the column .
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You should check for stored codes first, but another thing that stops the cruise control is the transmission range switch.
My Saturn had a bad one, which didn't light the CEL, but prevented the cruise from working.
I don't know about the clock spring in the column, whether the individual wires all go through it, or just a couple, but it could be the problem, unless you checked the buttons from below the column .
I can get an OEM safety switch for $25 on ebay, but I will have to attempt to start the car in different gears to see if that is the problem

The clock spring is ~$60, anyway to test that?
 

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Find which wires out of the column are for the cruse control, and check for continuity to the buttons.
 

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Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
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Find which wires out of the column are for the cruse control, and check for continuity to the buttons.
Or just measure the resistance on the switch input terminal at the cruise control module in the engine bay. If the resistance is good there it will save him from having to remove the steering cowl trims to access the clock spring connectors.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Find which wires out of the column are for the cruse control, and check for continuity to the buttons.
the horn does work at what seems to be any steering position

how exactly do you find which wires connect to the cruise control switch

Or just measure the resistance on the switch input terminal at the cruise control module in the engine bay. If the resistance is good there it will save him from having to remove the steering cowl trims to access the clock spring connectors.
Here is my module -->
what exactly am i testing?
 

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It was the only info I could find, unless I looked for the service manual, bored, trying to help.

While I have you, what plugs in the large diagnostic connector in the engine bay, on my 2011 Sonata? is that for GDS,
or does GDS plug in the obd2 port?
 

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While I have you, what plugs in the large diagnostic connector in the engine bay
It must be for some sort of diag tool they use in the factory. GDS just plugs into the OBD port.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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what exactly am i testing?
You should use your multimeter set to the Ohms scale to check the resistance of the switch signal circuit.

Disconnect the module harness connector and touch the red meter probe to terminal 2 on the connector and touch the black probe to a good ground (battery negative). The meter should show a resistance of less than 1 Ohm in this test.

Next, keep the red probe on terminal 2 and touch the black probe to terminal 11. The meter should show an open circuit at this point with neither of the cruise control buttons on the steering wheel being pressed.

With the meter connected as before, press the 'SET' button on the steering wheel. The reading on the meter should change to approx 220 Ohms. Next, press the 'ACCEL' button and confirm the meter reading changes to approx 990 Ohms.

If the resistance measurements are correct you know the cruise control switches and the wiring between the module and the steering wheel are all good.
448754


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There you go! that should do it!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You should use your multimeter set to the Ohms scale to check the resistance of the switch signal circuit.

Disconnect the module harness connector and touch the red meter probe to terminal 2 on the connector and touch the black probe to a good ground (battery negative). The meter should show a resistance of less than 1 Ohm in this test.

Next, keep the red probe on terminal 2 and touch the black probe to terminal 11. The meter should show an open circuit at this point with neither of the cruise control buttons on the steering wheel being pressed.

With the meter connected as before, press the 'SET' button on the steering wheel. The reading on the meter should change to approx 220 Ohms. Next, press the 'ACCEL' button and confirm the meter reading changes to approx 990 Ohms.

If the resistance measurements are correct you know the cruise control switches and the wiring between the module and the steering wheel are all good.
Thank you very much AutoSpark!

My results:
.2-.3 Ohms for #2 and ground - GOOD
220-221 Ohms for #2 & #11 with set pressed - GOOD
910-911 Ohms for #2 & #11 with accel pressed - GOOD

Read "OL" for #2 & #11 without any button pressed, I believe that is good?

..so, its good that it all works, but what is next..haha
 

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Read "OL" for #2 & #11 without any button pressed, I believe that is good?
Yes, that sounds good to me.

mac1990 said:
what is next..haha
I suppose you had better check the power supplies and grounds too. So you want the meter set to DC volts and connect the black probe to battery negative. With the ignition switched on you should have :
12V on terminals 1, 6 & 7.
12V on terminal 11 when the main cruise control switch is on.
12V on terminal 5 when the brake pedal is pressed. (the voltage on terminal 1 should switch off when the brake pedal is pressed too)

Now connect the red meter probe to battery positive so you can measure the voltage on the grounds. You should get have :
12V on terminals 2 & 8 (we already checked the ground on 2)
12V on terminal 10 when the shifter is in P/N. This voltage should switch off when the shifter is moved to R/D.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Yes, that sounds good to me.
Results:
Black probe on battery negative
#1 & #7 - 12.26V
#6 - 2.66V - PROBLEM?
#11 - Unable to test, cannot turn on main cruise control switch with it unplugged
#5 - 1.13V without brake, 12.2V when brake is pressed
#1 - 0V when brake pressed

Red probe on battery positive
#2 & #8 - 12.3V
#10 - 11.68V in park, 11.66V in neutral - PROBLEM? - Tested again and it was 11.79V on both
#10 - 0V in reverse and drive

I plugged in the cruise control module while the key was still turned to on. It made a noise like the gears inside were moving for a few seconds then stopped. Figured I would just let you know.
 

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Results:
Black probe on battery negative
#6 - 2.66V - PROBLEM?
Terminal 6 is the speed signal. I usually see approx 12V on the speed signal wire when the car is stationary, and the voltage should drop to approx 6V once the car starts moving. So this might be your problem. The cruise control obviously wont work without a valid speed signal.

mac1990 said:
#5 - 1.13V without brake, 12.2V when brake is pressed
This voltage when the brake pedal is released might be a problem too. Ideally this would be 0V with the brake released. But I think we should take a closer look at the speed signal first and maybe come back to this one later if we can't get it working.

mac1990 said:
Red probe on battery positive
#10 - 11.68V in park, 11.66V in neutral - PROBLEM?
No, I think this voltage is OK because it's not a direct ground. It's ground via the coil in the START relay. So there will be a little voltage drop due to the resistance of the coil.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

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Discussion Starter #18
Terminal 6 is the speed signal. I usually see approx 12V on the speed signal wire when the car is stationary, and the voltage should drop to approx 6V once the car starts moving. So this might be your problem. The cruise control obviously wont work without a valid speed signal.
So am I looking at replacing one of the speed sensors on the transmission?

It looks like I have 3 sensors on the transmission:
42621-39051 - Input Speed
42621-39052 - Output Speed
46517-39500 - "Speed sensor"

They are all around ~$20 OEM on eBay, so not too bad. Getting to them and finding out where they are actually located is another ball game..haha
 

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So am I looking at replacing one of the speed sensors on the transmission?
No, I think the sensor itself must be working if the speedo on the instrument cluster is working.

The first thing to do is just drive the car a little to see if the voltage on terminal 6 changes. It's possible that the sensor is just sitting on the sweet spot right now were it pulls the signal voltage down. If that's the case driving the car slowly forward even just a foot or so should rotate the sensor shaft in the gearbox enough to bring the signal voltage back up to 12V. But if the voltage remains at 2.6V when you drive the car I think that probably means the speed signal wire is open circuit/broken.

The speed signal is also available on the OBD connector under the dashboard. You can measure the voltage of the speed signal there to see if that matches what your getting at the cruise module. I think on your car the speed signal is on terminal 14 of the OBD connector....

448784


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Discussion Starter #20
No, I think the sensor itself must be working if the speedo on the instrument cluster is working.
I reversed down the driveway, then back up. Terminal 6 remained ~2.6V.

#14 on the ODB connector read: 1.8V without the key and ~2.93V with the key turned on

I am really not liking the idea of a wire replacement. It looks like it connects in with the main engine wiring..
 
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