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Discussion Starter #1
hey all posted before with no replies hoping i'll get some now.

my 04 3.5 2wd has 174500 miles (give or take a few miles).
I'm needing help troubleshooting dealer techs wont help or dont seem to know.

The problem:

one week ago it started doing a lil jerking/bucking while driving (when accelerating from a stop light) after it rained the night before. check engine light came on then off then on again then went off. drove for a bit (10 - 25 miles). light came back on and stayed on. it sat for two days light still on drove for a short five minute trip to store and back home. during the trip the jerking/bucking became very hard like throwing/lurching like bucking at 20 mph. got home put scanner on and it was popping 2 codes ( both codes twice) p1159 and p0302. ( 302 misfire in two i know and the p1159 i know as the vim).
The next morning: I trouble shot for the 302 code. wire checked seemed to be fine going from the coil pack to the next plug. and thinking its the coil pack swapped the coil pack with the one right next to it cleared the codes. started her up and ran for about 20-25 mins at idle. no check engine light came back on. well go to test drive it and right at 20 mph it bucks/jerks. all good after the 20 mph no bucking/jerking/kicking and no engine light came on after either. no drop in tach or anything like a power loss sign; tach stayed at about 1000 - 2000 no lights came on just a big buck/jerk.
have noticed that the slower i get up to 20 mph from a stop its not as bad as if i get up faster.
checked tranny fluid its normal level and seems to be a burnt brown color not black.
still bucking/jerking no checking engine lights no pending codes (per my reader the more expensive one might show a pending code not seeing it with mine).
called dealer service dept to just see if i can get some info on troubleshooting it and they told me they don't know or told me to bring it in for a 95$ fee. Which I can't afford and i can turn a wrench and all; I just need help on what to check. That is where I'm at what to check next seeing that it is not popping a code now and just bucks/jerks/kick/whatever you want to call it right when it hits 20 (give or take a mph or 2 at the most).
so some help please it is my only car and I can't afford a price like the dealers or mechanics charge. I DIY.
 

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Does your scanner map data stream? If so, I would read the TPS and MAF sensor. Also check the MAP. It is on the intake. Once you have ensured all that helps the car breath is good you can move on. MAF and MAP respond to barometric changes(like raining the night before). I would focus on the MAF sensor 1st. Pricey to do a guess swap though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i dont think my lil 20$ scanner has that. I do know it has the options to read codes, erase codes, monitors, and vec info along with one more option but i'm not sure what the option is. I think its instant something.
 

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OBZ Link has some affordable scanners that can either directly connect to a laptop or phone and they map live data stream for all the PIDs in the cars computer. Very helpful when identifying sensors that are false reporting or not reporting. It also great for seeing if the sensors are good when troubleshooting. I use the wired SX($30 on amazon) and use my phone/tablet or laptop to map data from all my cars. The LX is a bluetooth that you can trouble shoot right from your phone(android) not supported on I Phones though.


OBDLink® SX USB | OBDLink® | OBD Solutions


OBDLink® LX Bluetooth | OBDLink® | OBD Solutions


If you have an I Phone you have to spring for the MX WiFi


http://www.obdlink.com/mxwf/
 
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