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Discussion Starter #21
Thanks for your replie Paul.
If the purge valve is on the right hand side as you face the engine then I have already fitted a brand new one. I will carry out the tests you had said and see what happens.
Does the ECU tell the injectors to open as there are electrical connections going to them, or is it just fuel pressure that open them?
Thanks again,
Carl.
 

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Hi Carl,
Good show, already replaced.
When fuel pressure alone would open an injector, then all 4 injectors on the common rail would open all at once. So don't think so.
An injector is opened by an electrical voltage pulse from the ECU on it's connector.
If not opened all the fuel will simply be purged by it's little purge line on top of the injector, otherwise a little less fuel will be purged.
So an injector always takes fuel in from the common line.
If you take out an injector and hook it up to it's lines externally you should see a spraying pattern out of it (like in an empty jam jar) when the engine is crancked or running (in a difficult way).

Good luck,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ok that's what I thought.
So I have done some tests. I have fuel to the injectors.
Took one out that recently been over hauld so it should be working fine, put it in a bottle and connected to fuel line and electric conection, turned it over but no fuel coming out. Of injector!
Now could the ECU, CPS or CRank PS cause this to happen? Also I can't here the injectors lifting when I put a screw driver on them .
Must be an answer some where!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
One more thing it is starting with easy start and runs ok until the revs drop to tick over then cuts out and won't re start.
 

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Hi Carl,
Hearing the injectors is impossible.
The pull of the inside needle at the tip only is very short (mm). Also the pulse is very short (4 injectors per rev per revs/second), so only a few milliseconds.
But if one is not spraying, with fuel pressure and recently being overhauled, it causes me to worry and think of electrics problem.
So indeed to do with timing or a wiring problem.
But timing should also apply to problems while running, but you state when it runs it "runs ok".
Otherwise I would think at least only running at 3 cylinders, so not so smooth.
Or still a clogged injector??
You might consider taking out another injector and replacing it with the one you just tested and found shut. Both cannot be clogged because it could not "run ok".
But to be shure of electric power on the injector you would need an oscilloscope to see the electrical pulses on it, also in comparison with the other 3 connectors.
Furthermore, I cannot see what easy start has to additionally offer to at least get it started, because then it runs ok.
As mentioned before, only fuel pressure at the right time and a turning engine are neccessary with a diesel.
Maybe other bright minds can enlighten me on that.

Good luck,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hi Paul, the only thing I can think it could be is either the ECU or the fuel pressure not spot on on start up. Therefore not opening the presure regulating valve to allow the fuel in on start up. But there again why does it start some times and run ok for a few days?
I tied another injector test and that was the same; no fuel.
If you put a screwdriver on one the injectors on a running engine, you can here the injector ticking away. It really does work.
I now need specialist equipment to go any further, which I don't have to hand.
Of in search of someone who can help.
Will be in touch soon.
Thanks Carl.
 

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So probably an electrical problem.
I did found in schematics the ECU#2 20 amp fuse in the engine bay fusebox especially is for the injectors. So maybe you could have a look at that.
Otherwise best to source some measuring equipment.

Good luck,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #28
The only thing I have not changed the fuel pressure sensor. I have got a second hand, working one, on its way to me now. Will update once fitted.
 

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Hi Carl,
It certainly seems you replaced a lot of items for the best reasons, but it didn't do the job.
So I suggest to stop replacing and start measuring to get a real diagnosis.
As mentioned only fuel, injectors, timing and crancking are needed.
So at first fuel, I SUPPOSE by replacing all fuel related sensors on the rail, there should be fuel pressure available.
But as you hooked up the injector(s) externally you didn't see any fuel spraying out.
So still, there could be no or low fuel on the rail.
To be sure normally a garage would hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the rail.
If not available I suggest you look at the purge line from the injectors.
When disconnecting that little purge return line at the purge valve coming from the injectors and putting it in a jar, does (much) fuel spray out of it when getting fuel onto the rail by switching contact and cranking ?
If so you could conclude there is fuel pressure on the rail.
If not, there is no fuel pressure, so either fuel pump (inside the fuel tank) or bad wiring/relay to the pump or clogged lines/filter.
You can take off the line at the fuel filter in the left side engine bay to see if fuel is coming out before (from pump) and after the filter.

If you do have fuel onto the rail you need to check the electrical signals at the injector connectors, as mentioned, with an oscilloscope, a voltmeter won't do.
Being overhauled, I SUPPOSE they are all well.
You need to see (well) defined pulses/spikes, maybe going upto 80 volts, (preferably) on all injectors.
I was under the impression before, there could be no pulses because the externally hooked up injectors weren't spraying at their tips.
If no or weak pulses you need to check electrics, like the ECU fuses, wiring or connectors to the ECU and to injectors.
Otherwise you would be left with a functional problem of the ECU, because the injectors are directly fed by the ECU, according to the schematics.

I think and suppose you'll agree, only by a proper diagnosis now, you can conclude where the problem really lies and correct it.

Good luck,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Back again!
I finally got a car mechanic out to have a look. Car hasn't started for two months or so. Car mechanic turned the key and it started first time!
Any way he went on to say that if the earth from the battery has high resistance this can some times cause the ECU to have a hizzy fit on cranking, the ECU not receiving the correct milliamperes reading. So he took the battery out and thourly cleaned all the terminal from battery?
Also said that some times the wiring harness in the boot on older models can sometimes chaff. Causing a short circuit therefore affect the ECU reading. I have have now inspected the wiring and all looked good, except there was a lose conection the in boot light on the live supply. I have re soldered this now. I am now wondering if this simple problem has been the cause of my starting issues all along.
I have now used the car every day for the past week and so far the problem has not returned.
Fingers crossed it is now sorted.
 

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At least that car mechanic seems to know what he's talking about.
Your fix seems to work so fingers crossed, maybe that wire gave a lot of interference to the ECU so it got confused.
Good luck,
Paul
 

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Another Santa Fe with strating problems

At least that car mechanic seems to know what he's talking about.
Your fix seems to work so fingers crossed, maybe that wire gave a lot of interference to the ECU so it got confused.
Good luck,
Paul
Hi,
I am a newbie and I have a very similar problem with a very similar aged Santa Fe. The local garage has replaced all the glow plugs (which had all gone) and now the fuel filter but it still doesn't start without lots of cranking and/or Easy Start when it starts first time!

So when I saw this thread from Carl I immediately shot out and took the battery leads off and cleaned up the contacts. Yes the negative one was quite bad but the positive one was OK.

Unfortunately it did not improve matters on my car but then again I have not replaced everything that Carl did so I guess my non starting problem could be due to any one of the items that Carl has now replaced............

As I am not as competent a mechanic as Carl obviously is, I have now booked it in to a diesel injector specialist here in Kent. So I will keep you all posted.

Many thanks for starting this thread Carl as with all the other guys' suggestions, it really does give a very thorough reference list.

By the way, where is the electric diesel pump located? I have seen references to it being both inside and outside the tank. Surely they would not put an electric pump inside the fuel tank, would they? I have traced the fuel pipe back from the engine but can't see the pump. Is it mounted on top of the tank on the outside between the tank and the car body?

Thanks for your time
Ian

By the way, is there any way of printing this complete thread?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hello Ian,
The electric fuel pump is located under the rear seat. Before hunting for it, a way to test it is to crack a joint on fuel line to an injector and just turn the key until the lights come on the dash.. dont crank it over. fuel sprays every where it should be ok. Stand back tho!
No idea about printing off this thread but hold fire...............my problem returned!
 

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Yes, they do put the pump inside the fuel tank. But it is well insulated from the diesel and also diesel doesn't ignite as fast as regular gas would do. It needs some 600 degrees C to get it burning.
You indeed access it from underneath the seat.
Good luck,
Paul
 

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Hi
Did you ever get to the root of this problem. It sounds a lot like a problem I am experiencing with my 05 2.0 CRDI, I am 1000 euro in the hole and the mechanic still seems to be blundering about in the dark. Could this be an immobiliser fault? From what I have read it may be that corrosion on the ground contacts messes up the voltage to the ECU which malfunctions and then shuts down the fuel supply, hence cranking but no starting.
Any idea welcome, the next part we are changing is the ECU and it will be pricey.

thanks

Jamie
 

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Hello, new here and wondered if any one could guide me in the right direction?

About a year ago I bought a 2004 2.0 CRDI Santa Fe ,now done just over 100.000 miles, about six months ago it broke down whilst driving but restarted after a few mins , turned out to be the Crank PS, so while I was changing that I decided to change the water pump, cam belt and some other bits as I intend to keep the car for some time. Any way been fine, apart being a bit lumpy on first start up of the day, until yesterday when it would not fire up!
It is turning over fine (strong battery) but just not starting, I have checked if fuel is getting through which it is and the glowplug fuse is fine.
I am now thinking it must be the cam positioning sensor.
Would this cause a problem like this?
Many thanks in advance.
Carl.
H1 2013 hyundai bus cranking but dont start checked all injectors, high presure pump all working fine
 

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H1 2013 hyundai bus cranking but dont start checked all injectors, high presure pump all working fine
Hello, new here and wondered if any one could guide me in the right direction?

About a year ago I bought a 2004 2.0 CRDI Santa Fe ,now done just over 100.000 miles, about six months ago it broke down whilst driving but restarted after a few mins , turned out to be the Crank PS, so while I was changing that I decided to change the water pump, cam belt and some other bits as I intend to keep the car for some time. Any way been fine, apart being a bit lumpy on first start up of the day, until yesterday when it would not fire up!
It is turning over fine (strong battery) but just not starting, I have checked if fuel is getting through which it is and the glowplug fuse is fine.
I am now thinking it must be the cam positioning sensor.
Would this cause a problem like this?
Many thanks in advance.
Carl.
Dont forget to check your turbo, and take of the hose on the intake of the engine, in front of the Electric valve, then crank the engine, and if it starts, the probleem is the turbo, the axle of the turbine is worn out and sometimes its stuck, so there is a very poor air inlet causing the engine not to start. You can also check thuis by spraying some ether in the intake of the hose on the side from the air filter, if the engine is not responsing to this extra fuel and not staring, You should check the turbo air intake. This probleem seems to Come with bad accelleration sometimes or not a good response on the trotle. Very important if this is going on, there is no obd fault code in the computer. Wish You all the best, regards edwin
 

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Hi.
I have a similar problem and really in need of some help. My trajet 2.0 crdi just lost power. i took it to the garage and they replaced the turbo. When doing the diagnostic the comp indicated that the glow plugs is a problem we replaced it. The machanic broke one off in the head and the head have to be removed. Its was done valve timing was done and fuel presure was tested. It only cranked and did not srart. We replaced the diesel filter . crank and cam sensor still the same. Ecu was tested twice anx certified to be corre t. I am stuck now 10 weeks later nothing.

Please if any one can help I will appreceate it.

Chris
 
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