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03 Tiburon GT. I just bought this car about a month ago for my teenage daughter (first car). It has 83,000 miles on it and the carfax said the clutch was changed at 60,000.
First off, I know how to drive a standard. 2 friends also drove it and have the same problem.
When I slowly let the clutch out in first gear, when I ggive it gas to accelerate, the car starts jerking and bucking like someone learning to drive a standard, so then I switch to second gear and I also get the same jerking/bucking just not as bad, then I switch to 3rd gear and it drives fine like its suppose to. But first gear gets pretty violent, second gear calms down a little bit and then third smooths out.

Over the last three weeks it slowly started with first gear and I thought It was just me, but it got progressivley worse, and today it started with the second gear. The clutch feels fine, no slipping, gos into gear fine. Motor sounds fine, Nuetral I can rev the engine with no problems, same for 3,4,5,6 gears.

Anyone have a clue? Getting rapidly worse.

Thanks
 

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Dear scott,

Did you get a Check Engine Light with this defect? does the car idle smoothly when in neutral? Can you rev the engine up and release in neutral without dying or backfiring? I am just trying to isolate if you have an engine ECU issue, or a drivetrain issue. Can you start the car in first gear with the clutch disengaged?

Byron
 

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Hey Byron thanks for replying. No check engine light. Car idles and revs fine in neutral, no backfire or bogging down. Yes I can start the car fine in first gear or any gear with the clutch pressed in.

Just after I release the clutch and go to acccelorate (first & second) it starts bucking like some one learning to drive a standard. 1&2 gear I can release the clutch and just roll in idle with no acceleration and it rolls fine until I give it gas and the fun begins. I even tried to drive it like a ferrari by reving up and releasing the clutch a little quicker and floor it but it just starts bucking even with it wide open, and I have to press the clutch in to stop it before the transmission falls out of it. Im not a mechanic nor do i Know too much about working on cars, but I have several friends that are pretty knowledgeable that are stumped. Would a bad flywheel or pressure plate feel like that and get worse rather quickly like this? Doubt the powertrain warranty would cover it?
 

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Look for air inlet tube gap between MAF and engine.. se if air inlet tube is not seperated//loose//cracked//pulled away from MAF...

With torque /engine rock getting going, engine will rock and pull tube away from MAF and cause air leak... thus you have a bunch of "un-metered air going in that PCM not know about.... all air has to pass through the MAF
 

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I have this exact same problem with my 04 Tib. Sometimes when first accelerating it does what we call (in Australia) a kangaroo hop, whereby the car bucks repeatedly as the clutch is released. Happens bad in first gear as mentioned by the OP, and somewhat less in second gear.

I described the problem to a local mechanic during my last service and he reckons that the clutch or flywall is most likely etched, and the etching causing the clutch to suddenly grab, thus causing the bucking.

I'm really hoping it's not the clutch as that's a very expensive fix!

I'll look for a problem with the tube between the MAF and engine and see what I can find.....
 

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QUOTE (sbr711 @ Oct 29 2010, 04:03 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=366989
Look for air inlet tube gap between MAF and engine.. se if air inlet tube is not seperated//loose//cracked//pulled away from MAF...

With torque /engine rock getting going, engine will rock and pull tube away from MAF and cause air leak... thus you have a bunch of "un-metered air going in that PCM not know about.... all air has to pass through the MAF

SBR711 you are the man!!!

I took your advise and inspected the air inlet tube between the MAF sensor and engine. It was difficult to see because of the ridged walls of the piping, but after closer inspection and slightly squeezing the pipe I discovered that there is a massive split that extends about 1/3 of the way around the circumference of the pipe!!!

I snapped a photo of the offending beast. I'll get myself a replacement part and see how things.

Once again sbr711....thanks a lot mate! And thanks also to the OP for asking this question, I never bothered asking it myself because I figured it was an expensive clutch problem based on what the mechanic said.
 

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QUOTE (JonBOY26 @ Jan 5 2011, 09:19 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=387161
SBR711 you are the man!!!

I took your advise and inspected the air inlet tube between the MAF sensor and engine. It was difficult to see because of the ridged walls of the piping, but after closer inspection and slightly squeezing the pipe I discovered that there is a massive split that extends about 1/3 of the way around the circumference of the pipe!!!

I snapped a photo of the offending beast. I'll get myself a replacement part and see how things.

Once again sbr711....thanks a lot mate! And thanks also to the OP for asking this question, I never bothered asking it myself because I figured it was an expensive clutch problem based on what the mechanic said.
I'll let you off cheap... clutch is mega bucks.... I'll settle for a couple orders of 18 piece medium wings from BW3, and fries rolled in the medium sauce..

Anyways, I am on maybe my 3rd air boot with my Toyota Celica.. common part back in late '80 - early 90's Celica and Camry. Tucson had similar issue when new, the engine roll would seperate the boot from the MAF, and Hyundai changed the style of hose clamp there.. done a bunch of them.
 

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QUOTE (scottpimpsta @ Jan 7 2011, 08:50 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=387820
That fixed mine too!! Wow! That saved my life! Thanks a bunch!
That'll be a couple #6 meals from Wendys, medium size with Coke please.. or you can co-ordinate with other fella to buy a pile of wings for me.. :banana:
 

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QUOTE (sbr711 @ Jan 9 2011, 12:19 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=388495
That'll be a couple #6 meals from Wendys, medium size with Coke please.. or you can co-ordinate with other fella to buy a pile of wings for me.. :banana:
haha, you might need to reheat it, postage from Australia could take a while.....

At the moment my air intake is temporarily 'fixed' with some good old duct tape! Since sealing up the split the car hasn't kangaroo hopped/bucked/jumped once since. I'm lovin' it like a fat kid loves cake!
 

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Thats an AWESOME Fix. I've been trying to figure out why my '05 Tucson (Auto Trans) has been doing this on take off for months. Turns out the hose clamp just behind the sensor was loose and the hose was able to crack back from the connection. Reconnected the hose (all the way on this time) and retightened the clamp and Vuola! Runs like a charm! Thanks for this!!
 

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QUOTE (dkcrocker @ Feb 27 2011, 04:56 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=407822
Thats an AWESOME Fix. I've been trying to figure out why my '05 Tucson (Auto Trans) has been doing this on take off for months. Turns out the hose clamp just behind the sensor was loose and the hose was able to crack back from the connection. Reconnected the hose (all the way on this time) and retightened the clamp and Vuola! Runs like a charm! Thanks for this!!


TSB years ago to replace the screw and wire clamps with worm type clamps... also when you refit the tube to the MAF... loosen clamp at throttle body and rotate tube so it mates to MAF better...

Still get random Tucson with MIL and accell concerns.. open hood and tube is seperated from MAF..
 

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Here we go, bought a 2004 Tiburon V6 w/5sp with 88k last month and everything was fine until last week. The check engine light came on, then went off the following day. The light came back on again and stayed on. The motor felt like it was stumbling at 70mph @3200 rpm. I also was having trouble with the clutch release thing. I pulled the restrictor from the slave cyl. and better. Being "Old Skool" I checked the TPS and it was all over the place. I ordered a new one and had the Codes read at Autozone when I picked it up. The code was P0150 or the rear bank O2 sensor. So this is what I did: cleaned the MAS, swaped the TPS, found a small crack in the MAS to T/B boot, took the slack out of the throttle cable and C/C cable. Pulled the positive side of the battery to clear fault codes. (cable removed for @ 15 minutes) Washed and waxed the car then took for a test ride. Less than a mile from the house the car bucked one time at 2500 rpm and the check engine light came back on. In the morning I will remove the O2 sensor and clean or replace. will keep you posted. Thank you for all the information on this board.
 

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well I had planned to remove and replace or clean the O2 sensor, however life jumped in the way and I had to run errands and low and behold the check engine light went out and has not returned. This is a good thing as the sensor runs about $90.
 

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QUOTE (GPN @ Aug 29 2011, 09:39 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=497166
well I had planned to remove and replace or clean the O2 sensor, however life jumped in the way and I had to run errands and low and behold the check engine light went out and has not returned. This is a good thing as the sensor runs about $90.

And the code still remains in memory until manually cleared with scan tool...
 

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Thank you for telliing me that, Old school would loose fault codes with the battery disconnected for 10-15 min. I am waiting for a OBD 2 code reader I purchased to delete the code. This is a Blue tooth type, has anybody had any luck with these?
I seemed to find the problem with the car, I'm almost ashamed to tell you what I found... I followed my old rule... check the stupid stuff first...look at the motor to see anything out of order. Followed the air flow through the motor and where unmetered air can enter. Repaired the crack in the boot, checked the oil filler cap and it was loose and the gasket/seal had shrunk to the point that it would not seal. I made a gasket out of cork stock that I had on hand an viola. no check engine lite and it runs like a top. Thanks again.
 

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Look for air inlet tube gap between MAF and engine.. se if air inlet tube is not seperated//loose//cracked//pulled away from MAF...

With torque /engine rock getting going, engine will rock and pull tube away from MAF and cause air leak... thus you have a bunch of "un-metered air going in that PCM not know about.... all air has to pass through the MAF

 

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jerking clutch

QUOTE (sbr711 @ Jan 9 2011, 12:19 PM)

haha, you might need to reheat it, postage from Australia could take a while.....

At the moment my air intake is temporarily 'fixed' with some good old duct tape! Since sealing up the split the car hasn't kangaroo hopped/bucked/jumped once since. I'm lovin' it like a fat kid loves cake!
Checked all these, no cracks. clutch still jerks 1st and reverse. sometimes its normal. Really seems like a warped flywheel??? could there be a bad sensor??:confused:
 

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Same thing happening to me...

Well this post is a little old now but I just found it looking to solve my problem. This thread describes to a tee what is going on with my 2008 six speed standard Tiburon. I did a visual check of the air inlet tube (in place) and can't find anything wrong. I guess I should take it apart and look closer. One thing for sure, the problem gets worse as the engine get to full temperature so it makes sense that it could be an air intake problem. Any ideas on what I should do next if the air intake tube checks out? Thanks.
 
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