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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The car is a 2002 Hyundai Accent 5 speed with a 1.6L DOHC engine. The car was my step fathers car (original owner)...I eventually aquired the car for free from him, and in turn it sat for a little over a year. Shortly after getting it running and cleaning the mice out of it a bunch of parts siezed up due to corrosion. The alt froze solid, so I replaced the battery and alternator along with a slew of other parts not associated with the issue. The car ran great for a few thousand miles. It had 170,000ish when I got it, and around 175,000 stuff started going south. First issues were 3 codes. Random cyl misfire, cyl 2 misfire, cyl 3 misfire. The car still ran great and got 33+mpg easily. I then replaced the plugs, wires, and both coils...those codes stayed away for a while. Then shortly after that I get code p1401 which is DM-TL Diagnostic Module for Tank Leakage Module Malfunction. I got emissions and inspection luckly a few hundred miles before this issue came on (gas cap passed emissions). Now after spending hundreds more replacing the AC compressor, tires, wheel cylinders, brakes all around, mostly all frt end suspension components all 4 codes came back. What else could I be looking at for these misfire codes? Injectors?... also at HIGHWAY speeds (usually only above 70mph) my CEL flashes. It will keep doing this if i hit 70+mph...so I usually just cruise at 65mph. I can tell this has in turn probably killed my catalytic converter as now I can hear it rattle and my 33+mpg has dropped to 25mpg if im lucky and power has dropped drasticly the last few miles. Im also drinking oil but not putting out a hint of any smoke what so ever at startup or running it hard. I seem to have to add a qt every 1500ish miles.

Im desperate to fix this as its my "work" vehicle. And I do not want to give the catalyst attention until I find the reason why my CEL flashes and why I cannot figure out these codes.
I was also considering swapping in a used engine, but again I don't want to waste hundreds installing a new engine only to find the same issue because of some BS sensor...the car is not worth even close to what I have put into it. But because it was free, is capable of getting 35mpg+, the body is great, interior and trans great...and its the only vehicle im not afraid to get in after a day of messing with body filler, grease, oil etc at work all day and not care...also i wont allow my doberman in any other car. So I would like to address this (just incase anyone is wondering why im putting so much attention into a car which isnt really worth much)
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Thanks in advance

P.S. Im a Collision Repair Tech by trade. I have looked over every obvious thing I could possibly think of...but when it comes to electrical and diagnosing is where I fail.
 

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Do yourself a favor and take out both the negative and positive battery cables, clean the connections, grind off a little body paint so you make sure of good contact, and reassemble. Hyundais seem to have LOTS of weird electrical problems because of poor cable connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I will defiantly try that. My buddy who works for chrysler recommended a leakdown check, so I will report our findings as well.
 

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Replace the DMTL module... not hard to do. We see the 1401 occassionally, we keep (1) on the shelf at all times...

After install, clear code, and perform EVAP self test with HI-SCAN or GDS in the S/W option mode... takes up to 6 minutes for test to run..

0300 - random non-specific cylinder misfire

0302/0303 - self explanatory, 2 & 3 misfire detect... common item here is they share same coil. Could be also a number of other concerns too, vacuum leak at intake gasket, plugs, wires.. with engine idling, pull wire from coil and see how far the spark will jump to the wire, then do same for other wire, both should jump about the same with nice sharp crack.

I have a used coil pack if you need it, just cover shipping... I think the pack is fine, the engine we took it off of was in extermely poor condition.
 
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