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Look at what components are associated with the cylinders and you have injectorsas well as plugs and coils but don't go overboard and buy new ones. Try a in tank cleaner. It may also be a simple air leak from the intake manifold like a small hose. Is it a constant missfire or does it change with...

I don't think there race car performance but should be a bit better than many std cars. Remember your on the road and roads are unpredictable with drivers also coming the other way. Just enjoy your car.

Most plastic trims just clip off so I don't think there's much involved. Best keep the bowling for the bowling centre next time.

Start checking all the fuses. Sounds like you put the battery in the wrong way.

So are you saying theres no provision to put the key in a door barrel?

A transmission rest might also help. It can be done with a good scantool or by taking the negative battery terminal of for abt 5 minutes and pressing the brake pedal to remove any electrical energy. Not sure how successful the second method is.

It looks like the crank sensor but they usually start playing up when hot. I would first check the electrical connection at the sensor. As mentioned scan for codes.

Usually their OK unless it's dropped a valve but that's not common with this type of failure.

So it turned out to be the alternator. The reading difference your getting is normal due to the length of wires and the connections etc. With the belt tension (your correct) pick a long distance between 2 points (alternator/crank pulley eg) and try to twist the belt. It should be able to twist...

Coming from the UK they are built the same as the Australian cars with the brake pedal atached to a cross over bar because they kept the master cylinder on the left hand side (cheap and nasty). There may be an issue with that.

It may be the wiring that flexes every time you open the back. As avisitor said first check for power and earth at the bulb sockets.

An ABS module is like a brake hose allowing free flow of fluid between the brakes and the master cylinder unless it's operating so I doubt that's the culprit.

So your saying rock hard pedal and it won't move at all.

You would need a very high parasitic current draw to flatten the battery overnight. You need a multimeter to do some basic testing.

What was engine like before the belt breaking? If it was not an oil burner and ran fine I would just do up the head and am sure it will easily go another 20,000 miles.

Usually a cylinder missfire is caused by a coil or lead. Your high reading on the air temp may be an open circuit. Some codes don't come up straight away so I suggest you take it for a drive and see what happens.

Whats going on? 1 reply twice.

The brakes have a vacuum booster and I think thats where your problem lies. You should still be able to stop the car with a lot more pedal force and stopping distance. I have owned an I30 for eleven years and 170,000kms and never had a problem.

I suggest you have the dealer look at it. It may be a defect in the screen. Windscreens are laminated glass and it may be a defect in the laminating film.