Bad MAP sensor kills battery? Rattling noise. - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 12:57 AM Thread Starter
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Bad MAP sensor kills battery? Rattling noise.

2010 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4L

Four days ago, I noticed several unusual things...

1. The key remote was sluggish. I had to hit the open/close button several times before the door locks actuated.

2. When I started the cold engine, the engine speed went up like normal, but then dipped real low before going back up to something normal and then pulsates between maybe 800 to 1000 rpm. Eventually, the pulsating became less.

3. The time on the dash clock changed by several hours.

4. The mode on the trip odometer changed. It's usually set on gallons/minute, and it was on miles driven.

5. As I drove away it seemed like the car hesitated and then lurched forward.


So after 4 days of not driving the car, today...

1. Checked codes...had a pending code P0106 (MAP out of range).

2. Checked air filter. Was not excessively dirty per manufacturer (K&N), but probably needed cleaning since car has 50,000 miles and it could be the original.

3. Engine started fine, but engine speed pulsed again at idle.

4. I turned on parking lights to see dash gauges better. When I turned parking lights off the pulsing stopped.

5. At some point, I noticed the check engine light.

6. Checked codes again, now I have pending P0106 and a real P0106.

7. Tried to start engine again, and it wouldn't turn over.

8. Remote would lock doors, but horn would not sound when hitting lock button several times. Head lights might be a little dim.


Battery is around 2.5 years old, so it's not too old.

I'll probably take it to a mechanic. If you think you know the problem, please let me know.

I've been having another annoying problem for months, but I don't think it's related. The engine makes a disturbing rattling noise when at a stop light. The noise is not steady, but undulates or warbles. It doesn't sound like a belt squeal and can only be heard while sitting in the car with the windows rolled up.

The noise seems loudest when the engine is partially warmed up, the AC is on, and I'm holding the car still with the brake at a stoplight. When I release the brake and drive off, the noise immediately goes away.

The noise seems less after the car reaches operating temperature.

When I open the hood, I don't hear the unsteady rattling noise, but I hear a steady valve tapping sound.
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 01:31 AM
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My first approach would be to test the battery and if OK check for poor electrical earths. Many of the problems you mention are associated with a bad battery. It may not be the battery at 2.5 years but if it's flat a charge then test for other possible causes. Worry about the noises after checking the electrical system.
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, first things first.

Thanks, Charles.

I work on cars so infrequently, that I forget the basics. I'll put the battery on my trickle charger and then run the tests in this ChrisFix video. I heard disconnecting the battery could throw a P0106, so maybe it is the battery. I'll let you know.

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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickHyundai View Post
Thanks, Charles.

I work on cars so infrequently, that I forget the basics. I'll put the battery on my trickle charger and then run the tests in this ChrisFix video. I heard disconnecting the battery could throw a P0106, so maybe it is the battery. I'll let you know.

https://youtu.be/COJr7OB23Hw
Disable the ignition or fuel pump before doing the cranking test.

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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Loose battery cable

I thought I found the problem, but maybe not.

The positive battery terminal was very loose and had a lot of grease, so I had a bad connection at the battery.

I measured 12.29 volts before charging.
I trickle charged it at 2 amps for over 3-1/2 hours.
Measured again and got 12.68 volts. Thought I was good.
Turn on the headlights for 2 minutes to get rid of surface charge.
Measured again and got only 12.12 to 12.26 volts (the voltage increased as I was measuring).

So, basically the voltage went back to what it was before charging.

What's going on? Could the loose connection cause the battery to die prematurely? It's only 2-1/2 years old.

I was able to start the car, but it cranked a little slow.

I guess I need to check the battery at an auto parts store. To be safe, I better remove the battery and bring it over with another car.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Shopping for batteries

Shopping for batteries and I see a wide range of prices.

Autozone and Walmart offer a battery with the same specs and warranty, but with much different prices.

Autozone: $165
Walmart: $94

I don't get it? The warranty is the same.

By the way, my local Hyundai dealer said the factory battery is 700 CCA, so don't go below.
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 05:16 PM
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ok - as you may know you need to have the battery charged before having a load test done.

I used to buy the autozone duralast batteries for my Saabs which are battery consumers, but when the Hyundai SFS battery died went to Walmart and bought the $94 bat - and it's made by Johnson controls who I believe makes autozone . The difference may only be cosmetic - walmart has no carry strap.

my Wally Mart deal was a killer as I opened a charge account and got $25 off the $94.

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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 05:42 PM
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The number of plates and the CCA rating are whats important not the price.
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by charlescrown View Post
The number of plates and the CCA rating are whats important not the price.
Well I read the post as stating - "same specs" therefore price matters. In all probabilty the WalMart battery is internally the same as the DuraLast as they are made by the same company. In the USA their are 3 or 4 major battery makers - Johnson Controls being one of the largest.

Just the facts ma'am - 168k and rising by the hour
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 11:03 PM
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You misunderstood what I meant. Yes price is important but make sure your getting the same thing so check the specs before buying.
I am sure your getting batteries made in Asian countries which I have serious doubts as to their claimed specs.
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