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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Autospark, So just to be clear is what u call a BCM, a Blower Control Module? I have been calling it a CCM, or Climate Control Module. Just to get the language straight. Second, If u want to bypass the BCM, why not check for power from back of BCM ,at plug M22-2 first. From what u say, I have no defogger diagram, nor a fuse box connector C diagram to show me the pin(terminal) numbers.
also u are talking of a relay inside of fuse box, that would be ate up, which would mean changing out fuse box C? Does not look very hard tho.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Remo2110 View Post
Autospark, So just to be clear is what u call a BCM, a Blower Control Module? I have been calling it a CCM, or Climate Control Module. Just to get the language straight. Second, If u want to bypass the BCM, why not check for power from back of BCM ,at plug M22-2 first. From what u say, I have no defogger diagram, nor a fuse box connector C diagram to show me the pin(terminal) numbers.
also u are talking of a relay inside of fuse box, that would be ate up, which would mean changing out fuse box C? Does not look very hard tho.
Body Control Module
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Remo2110
I have no defogger diagram, nor a fuse box connector C diagram to show me the pin(terminal) numbers.
You do have the defogger diagram. It was kindly supplied by @wongpfh back in post #3 of the thread. I've re-attached it below, along with the pinout of fusebox connector 'C'. The pin numbers of the fusebox connectors are actually marked on the fusebox as are the connector identifier letters.

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just to be clear is what u call a BCM, a Blower Control Module?
No, BCM is the Body Control Module. It's actually the BCM that controls the rear defogger power supply relay, not the switch on the AC panel.

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Originally Posted by Remo2110
I have been calling it a CCM, or Climate Control Module.
On the diagram that's called the A/C Control Module.

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Originally Posted by Remo2110
If u want to bypass the BCM, why not check for power from back of BCM ,at plug M22-2 first.
Because, as stated above, the A/C Control Module (or CCM) doesn't actually control the defogger relay. You could test at the BCM connector if you wanted to but I think the fusebox is more accessible than the BCM.

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Originally Posted by Remo2110
u are talking of a relay inside of fuse box, that would be ate up, which would mean changing out fuse box C? Does not look very hard tho.
You'd need to test the relay circuit to determine whether the problem is being caused by the relay inside the fusebox or not.
If the relay is faulty though, you don't necessarily need to replace the fusebox. You could, with a little guidance from myself, bypass the faulty relay inside the fusebox by adding an external one. It's maybe a little more work that simply swapping the complete fusebox but it will be significantly less expensive.




Only one row of pins is visible in the photo because of the camera angle.

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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More questions

So included is the back of the fuse box. I tested to ground the bottom four wires on plug to right(ones on top in pic as is shown), smaller wires. I also tested the larger wires on plug to left(on bottom of pic as is shown). I recieved no click, and no tell tale light on switch whether i pushed it or not. By the way u can see the colors do not match with paragraph below. wire at pin 8 is yellow with orange stripe. pin 2 is gray with some type of stripe, just saying. Am I doing the right tests? Still working it. Appreciate the help.



The second thing I'd do is bypass the BCM and make sure the relay is able to switch on and supply power to the screen & tell tale light on the switch.

Referring to the defogger diagram you can see that the relay control wire enters the dashboard fusebox on terminal 8 of connector 'C' (blue wire). Locate that wire on the connector and back probe it using a pin (straightened out paper clip). With the connector still plugged into the fusebox, use a length of wire (or the ammeter in your multimeter) to connect the back probe pin to ground. When you ground the back probe you should hear the relay inside the fusebox click and the tell tale light on the switch should illuminate. If not, you'll need to check the relay power supply next, which is on terminal 2 of connector 'G' (heavy red wire).

BTW, a broken heater element/grid or a loose connection on the element power supply wiring shouldn't prevent the switch tell tale light from illuminating, according to the diagram at least.

Location of Fusebox Connector 'C'
[/QUOTE]
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-21-2018, 01:24 PM
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So included is the back of the fuse box.
If you look carefully at the photo I attached showing the location of connector 'C', you might notice that it's not on the back of the fusebox.
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-21-2018, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Easy er to test from with plug, plugged in.

Easier to test from with plug, plugged in. I have a piece of plastic over the top of the plugs on the front side so I went to the back side. It IS obvious location of Connector 'C', given ur awesome Pic and Pic from other contributor. I know u might be frustrated but hang in there. I think we are just missing a little. Should I still test from the front?


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Originally Posted by AUTOSPARK View Post
If you look carefully at the photo I attached showing the location of connector 'C', you might notice that it's not on the back of the fusebox.

Last edited by Remo2110; 12-21-2018 at 05:20 PM. Reason: Needed to get it right
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2018, 05:33 AM
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I have a piece of plastic over the top of the plugs on the front side so I went to the back side.
The connectors on the back side are for different circuits. You need to test at connector 'C' on the front of the fusebox.
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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I have grounded terminal 8 at connector 'C'. It does click and does illuminate sw when ign is on and terminal 8 is grounded. With Ign off it just clicks. What next?
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-02-2019, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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do I just put a ground switch in and go with that?
or replace fuse box?
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-02-2019, 02:56 PM
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Your test confirms that the fusebox is good, so you don't need to replace that.

To test the rest of the circuit you'll either need access to a decent scan tool, or the BCM on the car.
To access the BCM on your car you'll need to remove the center console. The BCM is under the console forward of the shifter...see below :

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