2009 Elantra - brakes went out - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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2009 Elantra - brakes went out

Hello all,

I have a 2009 Elantra with about 95K on the odometer. I've done all the maintenance on this car, including the brakes several times throughout the life of the car (bought it new).

I'm driving the other day, and I get cut off while I'm in the left lane, right as the light is changing yellow. We were each moving about 40-45 mph, and the other driver basically swerved in front of me and slammed on the brakes (I would've went through the yellow).

Right after this happened, I noticed that the brakes felt a little spongier and were going down further to the floor. I was going to a friend's house and was just about there. Upon arrival, I checked the fluid and sure enough the reservoir is nearing empty. I checked underneath the car and notice some light dripping from underneath the front center area.

Getting home wasn't bad because I took a route that is all highway and waited until about 10pm to head home with minimal traffic. I haven't had time yet to check out the issue, but am fairly sure it's something along the lines of what this person experienced:

Hyundai Elantra Brake Fluid Leak Problems

So most likely one of the rusty brake lines finally took a dump. It'll probably be a week or two before I can get underneath the car and take a look, but if you have an older Elantra and live in a place with harsh winters, do yourself a favor and give your brake lines an inspection.

I'll update this thread once I have a chance to check things out. In the meantime, if anyone has had any similar experiences, please share away.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got around to getting some estimates today. There is a tiny hole in the passenger side rear brake line. The other rear line is corroded too but isn't leaking. The first shop wanted to replace both lines for $470 and said both were bad. The second place quoted $390 just for the right rear and then another $290 for the other side. I'm getting a 3rd opinion Monday morning from a shop that replaced both rear brake lines for $331 OTD on my mom's 1996 Buick Road Master, but I have no idea how the difficulty compares to an 09 Elantra.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 05:31 PM
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You'll want to do both sides.

Good luck.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noln7120 View Post
do yourself a favor and give your brake lines an inspection.

It is not just Elantra... many cars suffer from it.
And inspection, as you said, is your good friend.


Some brake lines are protected better than others. However, one small rock flying into the line can chip off a piece of paint and start the corrosion...




Your solutions are limited to two types of repairs.
1. Get OEM ready to use lines and replace all corroded pieces.
2. Get copper based tubing, flanging tool, fittings, adapters, and whatever else is needed. It will never corrode, is easier to work with (more flexible), but more labor intensive. Yet, overall (if done as DIY) way less expensive than OEM lines.


I used the 2nd option on at least 3 cars and worked great. No difference in feel.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2009GLS View Post
It is not just Elantra... many cars suffer from it.
And inspection, as you said, is your good friend.


Some brake lines are protected better than others. However, one small rock flying into the line can chip off a piece of paint and start the corrosion...




Your solutions are limited to two types of repairs.
1. Get OEM ready to use lines and replace all corroded pieces.
2. Get copper based tubing, flanging tool, fittings, adapters, and whatever else is needed. It will never corrode, is easier to work with (more flexible), but more labor intensive. Yet, overall (if done as DIY) way less expensive than OEM lines.


I used the 2nd option on at least 3 cars and worked great. No difference in feel.
I'm running into some major issues trying to flare the brake lines (besides snow on April 27th! Lol). I'm not sure if the problem is the tool I'm using, inexperience, or a combination of both. So far, I've broken a rental from Napa, took a rental back (same design) to O'Reilly's due to being faulty (crooked flaring cone), and am ready to go buy the same design from Harbor Freight (don't know what else to do without spending serious dough and having to wait until next weekend). The only thing I might try differently is to use NiCopp line because steel is proving to be a PITA to work with.

Also, the flare on the lines is a ISO/bubble flare and has ISO/bubble flare fittings. I think I have to use the same style as what was on there but am not 100% sure. The tools that all the auto parts stores rent is double flare, but with a YouTube hack and flipping them upside down, you can achieve something similar to a bubble flare.

I'm really hoping that this next attempt using copper and perhaps a vice (instead of my hands) provides some success. I'm going to practice tonight - tried probably a dozen times earlier and either the line pushed through or was extremely crooked.

I can't imagine trying to fit the new one-piece lines on the car without them being easier to work with, so hopefully copper is the savior. The two lines are probably 13-15' (RL) and 14-17' (RR) - I have them removed, just need to get new ones installed, but have reached a standstill with these flaring complications. Very frustrating!
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 05:56 PM
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Never had a brake failure until I owned a Jeep Liberty. Had a metal line fail and 3 rubber lines fail on me during 11 year of ownership. I feel this is a result of made in China parts because I've owned many cars and never had an issue like this before.


I now replace flexible brake lines every 6-7 years and inspect them regularly for cracks and dry rot.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Also, the lines were difficult to remove due to two metal brackets that are bolted to the frame that the rear lines pass through. One is located a little below the ABS unit in front, and the other is behind the gas tank lol, thanks Hyundai! Everywhere else, the line either snapped in or was in a plastic clamp. Those were easy to work with - the two metal brackets were not.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noln7120 View Post
Also, the lines were difficult to remove...

I know this is a PITA repair. It was always a long process... in all cars I did it.
Luckily, we did not get any snow here.
You will curse again when you start bleeding the lines.


Route them more or less same way. Use zip ties. A lot of them.
And replace everything you can. And anything that may seem weakened.







But for the China claim here - man, any place in the whole world can, and will, produce a piece of crap. Likewise, any place in the world can, and will, produce great item.
It is the matter of the design itself, quality control, and the manufacturer cutting corners. Cutting corners for you so that you can pay less.


China is preferred place due to lower taxes, much lower pay rate, and a few others aspects. But it has nothing to do with the quality of the product.
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