B+3 I/P Junction Box Fuse - Parasitic Draw - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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B+3 I/P Junction Box Fuse - Parasitic Draw

Hey! I am looking for some electrical help.

I have a 2013 Elantra GT. One day, my car wouldn't start - so I boosted it and it was fine. Didn't think much of it.

A week later, after letting the car sit for two days idle, the car wouldn't start again...figured it was battery and replaced it.

Another week later, again after letting the car sit a couple more days, the car wouldn't start (not weather related as I live in a condo with a heated garage). I read online about parasitic draw, pulled out my meter and I think I've isolated the circuit.

When my car is idle with nothing on, there is a 0.5A (500mA) draw on the battery. After removing the fuses one by one, I found the 50A B+3 I/P Junction Box Fuse to be the culprit. After removing it, the draw goes to 8mA.

Now, I am trying to figure out what to do next. Are the wiring diagrams freely available? Does anyone have suggestions on what to do next?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 08:41 PM
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 08:52 PM
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vg19 View Post
Hey! I am looking for some electrical help.

I have a 2013 Elantra GT. One day, my car wouldn't start - so I boosted it and it was fine. Didn't think much of it.

A week later, after letting the car sit for two days idle, the car wouldn't start again...figured it was battery and replaced it.

Another week later, again after letting the car sit a couple more days, the car wouldn't start (not weather related as I live in a condo with a heated garage). I read online about parasitic draw, pulled out my meter and I think I've isolated the circuit.

When my car is idle with nothing on, there is a 0.5A (500mA) draw on the battery. After removing the fuses one by one, I found the 50A B+3 I/P Junction Box Fuse to be the culprit. After removing it, the draw goes to 8mA.

Now, I am trying to figure out what to do next. Are the wiring diagrams freely available? Does anyone have suggestions on what to do next?

Thanks!
B+3 50A Fuse info/wiring diagrams attached, good luck!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Fuse B+3b.jpg (232.5 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg SD110-8.jpg (105.7 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg SD120-6.jpg (99.9 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg SD120-7.jpg (116.1 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg SD120-8.jpg (93.3 KB, 8 views)
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you so much wongpfh!

So I pulled all the fuses on the B+3 circuit (PDM1, PDM2, DR Lock, Module 1, Memory 2, Memory 1, Multimedia, Interior Lamp) with no discernable difference.

Once I remove the B+3 fuse (with the above fuses removed) the current draw drops.

The only thing left in the circuit is the Leak Autocut Relay and Switch. Would this be in an accessible location? If so, any thoughts where?

Thanks!
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vg19 View Post
Thank you so much wongpfh!

So I pulled all the fuses on the B+3 circuit (PDM1, PDM2, DR Lock, Module 1, Memory 2, Memory 1, Multimedia, Interior Lamp) with no discernable difference.

Once I remove the B+3 fuse (with the above fuses removed) the current draw drops.

The only thing left in the circuit is the Leak Autocut Relay and Switch. Would this be in an accessible location? If so, any thoughts where?

Thanks!
Replace I/P Junction box..

I see you in Canada,,,, OUCH !! Another couple mark up and import on price of the part..

I be contacting Northtown Hyundai using their contact page for the part dept,, give them the part number off the box (should be white decal with black text with part number on it) to male sure valid..

I see you Toronto,, so come across Niagra Falls, run down Blvd to Sheridan, hang a left, and they up on right.. grab the part and take it home with you,, or swap it in the parking lot and cross back to Canada like nothing happen..

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Last edited by sbr711; 01-26-2019 at 06:08 PM.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 06:45 PM
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by vg19 View Post
The only thing left in the circuit is the Leak Autocut Relay and Switch.
The only thing left in the circuit that's shown on the diagram is the Leak Autocut Relay and Switch.
But did you disconnect the fusebox connector (I/P-D) to make sure that is where the current is actually going?
500mA seems like a lot of current for a relay coil to be drawing.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks all!

So I took a very systematic approach this morning. I had my wife take pictures as well (I had a feeling some of the numbers she was writing down were not totally right ).


1) Idle State, with all fuses/connectors in place: Initial current draw of ~0.45A, drops to steady-state ~0.23A
-I would consider my parasitic load draw to be 0.23A, which still seems higher than normal, and likely what is causing the battery drain


2)Removing the B+3 fuse: Steady-state current draw of ~0.08A
-Is 80mA normal for the Elantra GT?

3)Re-installing the B+3 Fuse: Steady-state current draw of ~0.23A


4)Removing the I/P-D connector as suggested by @AUTOSPARK , current draw goes down to 0.002A
-pretty much no current draw at all


5)Re-installing the I/P-D connector, current draw goes to ~0.23A


6)Removing the fuses installed in the subject B+3 circuit, the 10A Memory2 fuse results in a noticeable difference. Current draw drops to ~0.16A
-Reduction of approximately 70mA from Memory2


7)Reinstall Memory2 fuse, current draw goes to ~0.23A


Does anyone have an idea of what the normal idle current draw should be for a 2013 Elantra GT? There are few clues in the above as to what the culprit exactly may be, but knowing normal values would help.

Thanks again everyone!
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by vg19 View Post
Does anyone have an idea of what the normal idle current draw should be for a 2013 Elantra GT? !
I'm pretty sure the Hyundai book figure for parasitic current draw is < 50mA for all models. And you need to connect the meter then wait 20 minutes before taking a reading. That is to allow the control modules on the car to shut down. The draw will be high if modules are still active.
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