First of all, I want to thank this forum and its members for all the help received. I learned a lot about the car, the Hyundai service site that has all the diagrams, and tips in general.
I thought I'd create a new thread now that I finished, and maybe this can help someone else.
1) better SQ. I thought the stock Dimension system lacked in several areas, but probably the thing that most bothered me was the fact that the highs were localized in the windshield, without blending with the lower frequencies coming from the doors.
2) Car should look stock, and I could not have any lost space in the trunk.
stock HU, JBL MS-8 processor, Polk PA D5000.5 amp.
Polk DB6501 components for the front, Polk DB651 coax for the rear doors, and Critical Mass SS82 8" to replace the stock sub in the rear deck.
So let's get to it. I tried to document with pictures most of the process, though I will not show how to remove door panels; plenty of how to's available.
(There's plenty of more pictures if you go to Photobucket)
First thing I did was to install the speakers, and used them with the stock system for a while. There was an immediate improvement in blending, although I lost output due to the ohms difference.
My initial intention was to install the tweeters in the sails; I even bought a pair of new sails so I could go back to stock if/when needed (Cas is leased). The sails are available in Hyundai parts sites for $18 each.
I was ready to get the wires through the Molex connectors to the front doors. Spent some time looking at several videos and pictures that show the right process. I did not want to have wires hanging around, or drill holes in the doors..... It had to be perfect.
I was able to disconnect the Molex, remove the rubber boot, and even see where to get the wires through (couple of empty slots). The problem. The Molex half attached to the car body does not pull out......it is removed by pushing it in. Removing it was not going to be a problem, but pushing it back in place would have been very difficult. Not impossible...but there is no space to fit a hand there from the inside. So I decided to go with the stock locations in the dash, and see how that worked.
Here's a few pictures of the Molex:
Here I show the empty slots where I was planning to get the wires through
And here you can see the part attached to the body....goes in, not pulled out as I expected.
And more pictures of the installed speakers. For the tweeters I made a couple of simple mounting brackets. For the sub, the process to get to the rear deck is a little tedious, but it was an easy swap. The stock sub has a plastic frame that is easily removed, and I used it to install the new one.
This little think is a monster. i did NOT expect this amount of bass coming from an 8 incher.
Passing the power wire from the battery to the trunk was easy. I used the main grommet that has wires taped on both sides. Removed the tape and there's plenty of space to get up to a 0 gauge wire (Iused 4 gauge). The boot is pretty thin/weak so I tore it....but covered it with tape again and there's no sign. Here's a few pictures.
Here's how I am hooking up to the battery; once connected, the cover is closed and shows no sign of the extra wire.
Once you have it inside the car, removing the trim required to get it back to the trunk is pretty easy.
So now to the "main attraction". The trunk.
I placed the MS-8 and amp on top of the spare. I did it in a way that the whole board can be removed in under a minute to get to the spare, or to quickly go back to stock. Used Molex connectors for speaker inputs/outputs, and for power/ground I used special connectors and also a 12V disconnect switch (These are in a separate board attached with velcro. This stays in the car when the amp board is removed).
Here's some pictures. If you open the trunk there is no sign of this being under the covers. Not one cubic inch of space was lost.
Here's a few pictures.
Stock amp location; got the speaker level inputs to the MS-8 here, and alos the remote lead.
Extended the spare screw to secure the amp board.
Ground. Removed paint for good contact.
Jack fits perfectly there.....
Top left section is a separate board with 12V disconnect power/groud connectors. That section stays in the car.
Final product. Yes, looks crowded. There's several 2x4's to support an upper board. Don't want anything to crush my amps. You should be able to see all the speaker Molex at the bottom.
Upper board fixed to the 2x4's with velcro.
and voila. No signs of what's below.
Sorry for so many pictures.....turned out to be a long thread....
So how does it sound? Absolutely fantastic!!!! I had to have several "tuning" sessions with the MS-8. specifically playing with amp gaisnto get the best sound, but I am very, very happy with the outcome.