2017 Elantra No Start - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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2017 Elantra No Start

My sister's 2017 Elantra, on Friday night it wouldn't start after work. Just clicked when the key was turned. I was out of town and just got a chance to look at it today (Sunday). Brought jumper cables, but tried to start it first just in case and it started right up.

Got that car home, about a 10 minute drive. The battery tested perfect with one of those heater element style battery testers. Fully charged, and perfectly in the good range when testing with a load.

Anybody else experienced something like this? Connections are all tight on the battery and alternator, didn't check the wires on the starter yet though. Any thing else to look for before I crawl under there? Anyone know where it grounds to the frame on this thing?

Thanks in advance
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 06:24 PM
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Dane were you able to open your car by using the key or keyless entry? Also, were the lights flickering randomly. I'm asking because I have accidentally have let the battery died twice. So when I get my car jumped, the car starts perfectly and shows full battery voltage.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 07:50 PM
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Automatic? Maybe the shifter wasn't all the way into park?

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 06:35 AM
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My brand new 2017 Limited negative battery clamp 10 mm nut was loose.

One way to test a battery is with a 13.5 volt pure direct current power source with an ammeter, with the negative battery lead disconnected, after a long charge, that ammeter should read zero. Had some that would only go down to 3 amperes and a 60 ampere hour battery in the Elantra would be dead in 20 hours due to an internal discharge.

Can't top off a maintenance free battery that is an idiot marketing term for no removable caps with distilled water. Top of the plates are dry and start to short out. Reason for this is product liability. If a cap is loose or off, acid can bubble out, solution, get brains and keep your caps tight, or get a capless battery. Had batteries last as long as 20 years by keeping the electrolyte to the full mark, now lucky for three years. And the prices have skyrocketed.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Hi All,

I wasn't there when it wasn't starting so I am not 100% sure of all the details, but my sister said that there were no blinking lights or really anything out of the ordinary other than the clicking like a typical dead/low battery. She was able to lock it with the fob on Friday and I could unlock it yesterday with the fob. Again, it started right up yesterday when I got to it, without a jump or anything so I don't think that the battery was dead or low even. It has started fine twice today also.

It could have been something like the shifter not being fully in park, I wasn't really paying attention to that yesterday when I did start it but I could have inadvertently bumped the shifter into the correct position as I got into the car. Although I don't think that it would have made the clicking sound for her if it wasn't fully in park, I would think that it just wouldn't do anything. That is testable I suppose.

Just gonna wait and see if it happens again I guess and then take a closer look. If there is one thing that I hate it is chasing electrical problems!
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 10:14 PM
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Check the brake switch above the pedal that’s mounted underneath the dash. Little guy with a plunger-like function. Press the brake pedal the spring loaded plunger e tends. Let off, the brake arm engages the plunger and pushes it back in. If you’re not 6’2”/205, it’s relatively easy to lay partially down in the floorboard and direct a flashlight beam on it. Depress the pedal and see what happens. Sometimes, they can stick and the starting circuitry recognizes it as the pedal not being fully depressed for starting.

Easier method, sit in the seat and watch for the brake lights to illuminate.
Post what you find out so the rest of us can learn.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 02:23 PM
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Before you get your hands too dirty, you could check the battery voltage both after the car has been turned off, and after it's been sitting for more than 4 hours, it should be higher than 12.5/12.6 volts. That will help rule out battery problems first.
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