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Spark Plugs replacement - 2012 Sonata 2.4l

27K views 36 replies 14 participants last post by  drizler 
#1 ·
Have 105,000 km. on vehicle.

What plugs would be in the 2012 2.4 L sonata gls, as I would like to put original back in.

Would like to pick them up ahead of time.

Any tips appreciated.

Sincerely,
TJ
 
#2 ·
No need to change until 160000 kilometers, Denso FXU 16 HR11

Serpentine belt change is more needed and coolant flush

ATX flush and fill needs to be done.

Front and Rear brakes pad and rotors to be changed

Can buy locally from Amazon.ca

I have replaced above from 74000 to 82000 kilometers

Do not go to dealer
 
#3 ·
Saleem,
Thank you for your quick response.


I did not realise that you do not change plugs till 160,00 km.
The dealer tells me 100,000 km., eh.
likely just wants the work?
I am going to replace the plugs my self, never did one on these 2.4l. theta,
but changed lots of plugs in others when I was in the trade. Looks straight forward.

I have had trans fluid replaced and front and rear pads and rotors done.

Serpentine belt still looks good, eh!

regards,
t.j.
 
#4 ·
Yes Serpentine belt looked brand new when I changed mine around 83000 kilometers.

Coolant change should be done flush and fill Canadian Tire carries hyundai fluid for $20

Auto parts way carries FXU spark plugs and is local,but ensure minimum order to avoid shipping.

Good luck!
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the heads up about coolant change .

Phoned dealer re coolant , $22.00 for 1 jug
looks pretty well straight forward changing the coolant, eh.

should I do a flush and use distilled water?

asked dealer about plugs he said they were $24.18 ea. ,went on to say they were made by ngk for hyundai?

I thought they were made by denso.

regards,
tj
 
#7 ·
YF 2.4 has NGK IRIDIUM plugs in it.. remove 1 and use code on porcelin to get same part.. 90/105 USA interval

Coolant, plain old everyday cheap green will suffice, that all we use here in shop for customer pay, we have the Hyundai Long Life, higher cost, but mostly get used for warranty work where coolant get replaced with related job
 
#9 ·
My manual states my 2013 Sonata requires Denso FXU 16 HR11 iridium plugs.

This plug is available @ Auto parts way....but they have $100 minimum for free shipping.

I did flush and fill with coolant, used 16 litres distilled water, available @ Shoppers Drug mart for $1.69 for 4 litres plus tax of course.
 
#10 ·
Saleem,

When you did your coolant change, did you run distilled water through for a flush after first drain.

Also looks as if coolant will run all over because of splash shield ? Any tips.

Spark plugs sure seem to be confusing with these.
Dealer says the same as sbr711 that they are NGK.
I will look in my manual .
Thanks to all you guys for your advice and tips, eh.

regards,
tj
 
#12 · (Edited)
I have flushed the 2.4 with distilled first two times. Just did a drain and fill last time as I wasn't sure what I wanted to do with car. I never use tap water for anything coolant related. I also mix with distilled.

Remember if you flush with distilled water filling the entire system with water and not coolant you CANNOT use 50/50 coolant. You must use 100% coolant to get close to the necessary coolant to water ratio.

Pull splash shield. Easier to work on car and doesn't make nearly the mess.
 
#14 ·
The above process isn't very accurate in my experience doing this on several cars of different makes.

It takes about 8-10 gallons of flushing for mine to come clear (no soot or color deviation from clear) with two years in between changes. I have the heater core open and on full blast in between changes. I drive around block until heat starts coming through vents and head back to garage for another drain and fill.

Bowl is a bad description; drain pan is better.

And if you do the fill with distilled and drain; its considered a poor mans flush and fills your system entirely with water. When you do your fill with coolant you HAVE to use pure coolant and not premixed performing this process. If you use premixed you will be well below 50/50 in the wrong direction. Closer to 74% water and 26% coolant which is way to low for anything used as a daily driver.
 
#19 ·
Here is my "final thesis" on coolant and its capacity, unless someone can produce evidence to justify "their thesis"

Radiator capacity approximately 3/4 US gallon

Backup reserve capacity approximately 1/4 US gallon

Total capacity for coolant to cool engine is 1 US gallon.

This 1 US gallon keeps on circulating "as needed"

SO...when you drain radiator i got roughly 3/4 US gallon only.

Backup reserve was drained only 1/4 US gallon came out.....

SO...when you try to clean UP old coolant out of system, wherever they may have left their "stain / color" you need more than few gallon of distilled water, based on how clean you want.

Same 3/4 US gallon of distilled water also comes out......

There is no evidence that coolant is stored anywhere else in the engine except Radiator, there may be few ounce of coolant in water pump, that too is part of roughly 3/4 US gallon.....

SO...my 50/50 mix is all i needed to fill radiator and backup reserve......

Please note, i used 5 hours of my quality time to monitor every aspect of my "flush & fill"

After 4 gallons of distilled water, cooling system was clean.

When i was ready to pour new 50/50 into radiator, it only took 3/4 US gallon, yes with heat on and fan @ setting 2 for 15 minutes, i continued to burp with engine running, squeezing hose.

After 21 days and 300 kilometers, i have poured 5% of another gallon of 50/50 mix to stay sightly above "full mark" in backup reserve...otherwise 1 US gallon is all i needed ......

There are many feedback like you need 1.5 gallon of 50/50 to fill the capacity.......that is why i bought 2 gallons, in reality for my 2013 Hyundai Sonata, only 1 US gallon is needed.....

This is my "reality"....cannot speak for others.......
 
#20 ·
Short answer: You have forgotten hoses and block and heater core which accomodate slightly more than 50% of the system from my recollection.

So before your last drain you are 100% water and you indicate that. However even on drain and overflow you are only replacing 1/2 the systems fluid (really rough estimate). So if you take 1/2 your system and put in 50/50.

When you drain the radiator...you only drain roughly 48ish% of the system. This is why on your final fill you put in 100% coolant to get "close" to 50/50.
 
#21 ·
Short answer with a " johny cochrane twist"

Every coolant manufacturer is selling 50/50 mix?

IF your theory had any validity, all those manufacturers of 50/50 mix would have been sued out of existence with millions of fines,for selling a coolant which causes problems and engine damage,especially in cold climate,like northeast,Alaska and Canada.

I rest my case!
 
#23 ·
This is what i did after our back and forth with logic / assumptions / understanding

I went to buy a coolant tester @ our friendly Canadian Tire store $7.99+ tx

There instructions were very clear......

Check the backup reserve.....that came in @ -37 celcius......

BUT i was not sure that this is the correct way to check my coolant......

Waited an hour for radiator to cool down to check radiator protection.......guess what.....it was -25 celcius.....below than what i need in frigid Toronto area where -30 can last several weeks in February...

SO...went to pick up concentrated coolant......

Came back and drained radiator completely....

Emptied reserve completely..

Poured entire coolant in radiator and reserve with 100% concentrated .....

Purged the system by squeezing hose....heater @ high with speed 2......fan came on several times.....

Closed the rad cap......

And called it a day well spent.......

SO ...now we have some exact protection numbers with 50/50 mix......IF a flush was done 4 times with distilled water......number is -25 celcius

SO this discussion ended with "victory for bearcats"

And a good learning for me.......
 
#25 ·
@Saleem: Don't think of it as a win/loss. Technically if we do the win is in your court as you learned how to further maintain your car and you don't have to pay someone to do it. And you took the time to debate the theory to understanding which helps everyone.

End all be all you have protection and a clean cooling system! :)
 
#26 ·
Thanks for all the info. on the coolant change.

I understand I do not have to replace the spark plugs until 100,000 miles or 160,000 km.

when I do change them, get proper plugs from dealer

~ remove engine cover
~ undo bolt securing coil
~ Lift off coil
~ Remove and replace spark plug

I read that you do not lube threads on these plugs as we used to on older models.

should I put a dab of silicone at tip of plug where boot goes over or is that old school for this model.

Any other tips or advice appreciated.

Skill level ?

regards,
tj
 
#29 ·
Autopartsway canada has Denso spark plugs in stock,they ship free IF total order is $100.

Their prices in Canadian dollars is competitive to Advance Auto and Autozone.

Rock auto is cheaper but they add shipping in every order.....which brings cost @ par with Autopartsway.

There is a video by Richard Lloyd on spark plug change, he had 2.0 Turbo...check YouTube.
 
#27 ·
You are not relegated to getting them from the dealer (unless its easier and cost effective). I would get the make/model of the plug and shop RockAuto or similar. However being in Canada not sure shipping will do anything but hurt your cost. I would, however, put back the OEM specific plug.

Anti-Sieze on the plugs is almost as long as enduring debate as oil. Many say putting the antisieze on change the torque spec rating. Others say it keeps it from freezing to the block and isn't enough to worry about. Wonder if SBR would chime in.

I put a schmear (technical term/not a lot) of dielectric grease on the bottom of the boot and reinstall.

Also it would be a good idea to see if someone could chime in with the torque spec for the plug upon re-installation.
 
#28 ·
With nothing on the threads on new plugs, I seem to remember it is ~10ft-lb. I also use the dielectric grease on the boot, both as a good seal and as a way to keep it from sticking. Given how these GDI engines are tougher on plugs, I'd inspect/replace them sooner than the manual says.
 
#31 ·
With 96,700 miles on my 2013 GLS, I decided to change out my spark plugs. Paid $36.xx for a set of four Denso OEM plugs on Ebay. Everything I read said they would be gapped properly, but when I checked, they were tight.


this was my first effort of changing my own plugs, so went very carefully - Undid all the bolts for the coils, but left the coils in and worked on one plug at a time (to help keep crud out). Except that the extension for the socket I was using was BARELY long enough, the process went smoothly. All came out without a problem, though I ended up needed needle nose pliers to fish one old plug out.


New ones went in without a hitch. Spent my entire ride home that day deciding whether to stop and buy a torque wrench, and eventually decided against spending $50.00 for a tool I might only use once every 4 years. Used the "hand tight + 1/4 turn". All seems good, although frankly, I haven't seen much improvement in how the engine runs.


that could be because as I compared the old plugs to pictures I've found on how to "read" plugs, my old ones looked great. Light gray color, not wet, no corrosion anywhere. But I know their done now, and I should be able to get to my planned 200,000 miles on this set.


Next is shocks. The ride is getting a bit rough!
 
#33 ·
The NGK box has a picture on it: for a new plug, 3/4 turn after hand tight to crush the washer.

For a reinstall, hand tight, then 1/4 turn. If you use this method, the anti-seize does not change the plug's final position.

If you use a torque wrench, the anti-seize may alter the position of the plug after thightened. this may be an issue
because the plug gap should face the incoming fuel, +- 3 degrees. I think this is actually more presice than the torque wrench.
 
#34 ·
Process @Bearcats described is exactly what I used (minus additional gallons of water to flush) when I did mine. Key is to let it warm up and let pure water circulate so you're diluting and then draining as much of the old coolant as possible then repeat that process. By the end, you have to put half of the TOTAL CAPACITY back as straight coolant.

It has been two years since my flush. Tested the coolant a week ago and it was still solid.
 
#35 · (Edited)
OEM specific plug:
In my 2015 Sonata SE the OEM plug was NGK SILZKR7E11.
I read elsewhere that the OEM plug used to be Denso, and it is now NGK. the 11 is the pre-gap, 0,.043 in. E is the plug revision, 7 is the heat range.

Anti-Seize on the plugs:
Not recommended. These plugs have trivalent thread plating, and rolled threads. I have just read an NGK tech bulletin complaining that people use anti-seize, which results in over-tightening the plugs.

Dielectric grease:
Have to be careful with not getting any oil or grease on the porcelain insulator part of the plug. I have seen people using long q-tips to grease just the contact point inside the ignition coil,

torque spec:
PLUG STUDIO / NGK

As per the above guide the plug has 12mm thread, so 15 to 20 nm (11-15 foot pound)
 
#37 ·
It may be old school but one has to remember quality Control is just poor to non existent these days. It’s exceptionally rare to get a bad plug or one out of gap but it does happen. Always take a look at whatever you’re putting on for obvious defects.
Lay those old plugs out in order and look at em too. They tell much about how your engine is running and the net is full of illustrations/ photos to compare with.
I wouldn’t bother with a torque wrench either for those sort of things. Just do it like like the others said.


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